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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2004, 04:18 PM
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6.0 oil leak

Hey new to this site... Love it so far nice info.
Well on the oil leak problem I have a "03" early. So far I have had the dealer replace "4" of them ! On the 4th time they replaced rear engine cover said that was the fix, they said it had a small grove in the bottom of it so they thought seal was sticking and spinning in there terms. Now in for the 5th time just spoke to the dealer asked them why its taking so long " week so far" they told me they had ford and some engineers out looking at the problem. Didn't tell me specifaclly what was wrong the answer they gave me is they are waiting for a jack plate to come in..hmm jack plate? And yup i had to ask they pulling motor for some reason dont know why and service rep dont know either jeeesh! Waiting for service manager tocall back.. Until then..
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2004, 05:40 PM
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2004, 09:38 PM
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I have had two RMS. I noticed a big hanging drip when I changed my fuel filters. I went out today and bought the Mobil 1 Truck & SUV. I could only find it in quart bottles. I am going to switch in a few miles at my next oil change and see if the drippy goes away.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2004, 12:07 PM
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Mine will be going in for "Attempt" number three this week.. Looks as if they got the seal in right last time, "DRY", but is leaking from the Rear Engine cover now (right side) and is dripping off the starter bolts, and on down from there.. DRY up topside!!
Also has a small leak in the hydro booster that needs some attention.. Get a fix for the leaks, and the "TURBO TROMBONE" and I'll be a happy camper!!!
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2004, 05:16 PM
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Was the engine pulled for this repair?

Does a dealer have to pull the engine for the rear main seal? I just got off the phone with my dealer and they are pulling my engine to replace the bed-pan seal. While they are there, they are going to replace the rear main seal.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2004, 05:24 PM
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I think they have to pull the engine for the pan since there are obstacles in the way & they just can't drop it.. For the rear main, I believe they do that in place..

Good Luck & I hope it takes care of your problems..

Russ
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2004, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AusTex F-250
Does a dealer have to pull the engine for the rear main seal? I just got off the phone with my dealer and they are pulling my engine to replace the bed-pan seal. While they are there, they are going to replace the rear main seal.

NO..Do not have to pull the engine to just replace the Rear Main Seal..Just the trans is removed for the RM seal replacement.. The "BED PLATE" is the lower portion of the block, and incorporates block/crank in a two piece unit, and cannot be serviced/sealed inframe... LARGE job..
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2004, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AusTex F-250
Does a dealer have to pull the engine for the rear main seal? I just got off the phone with my dealer and they are pulling my engine to replace the bed-pan seal. While they are there, they are going to replace the rear main seal.

Sometimes on a RM seal replacement, they will re-seal the bed plate seal "Ends" that requires the "rear engine cover" to be removed and sealed where they meet/join.. BUT,, if they told you the engine was coming out, it is for the BED PLATE seals (not oil pan) that run the lenght of the block (both sides).. If you look at your engine from the bottom, first you'll see the oil pan sealing surface and bolts.. a few inches above, that is the bed plate surface and bolts.. Basically, they will be "splitting" the crankcase apart to replace the seals..
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2004, 05:47 PM
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Hayapower,

Thanks for the information. I am very, very nervous about this. Should I be? The truck is not even a year old and they are already having to replace the bed plate seal. The dealer has already had to replace the number 3 injector a few months ago.
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Old 04-27-2004, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AusTex F-250
Hayapower,

Thanks for the information. I am very, very nervous about this. Should I be? The truck is not even a year old and they are already having to replace the bed plate seal. The dealer has already had to replace the number 3 injector a few months ago.

Good question...Does this dealer have a good diesel tech/mechanic? This could make "all" the difference, and would be my largest concern involving a repair as yours.. You may want to have "in depth" talk with the service manager/writer first.. NO new owner wants to have problems early on for sure, (me too) but at least it will be repaired, or replaced if it's not fixed right.. The complete front end of the truck has to be removed, (lights, bumper, grille, rad, AC ect.), "everything" to make way for the engine to come out.. If they have a great tech, with experiance, and an "eye" for detail, it should all go well.. Guess I/we have to give them the chance , although a bit "worrysome"..


GOOD LUCK with it, keep us informed, and be sure to let us know how the repair went....
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2004, 10:06 PM
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AusTex F-250, what dealer are you using?
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2004, 10:59 PM
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I'm not to sure now about spending hard earned money on the 2004 F-350 PSD FX4 Lariet CC, Long bed.

Any one please Advise before I let go of $43,000 take home dollars after taxes are taken out of my paychecks.

I live in San Diego and will be pulling a 10,000lb trailer over a 5,000 foot grade.

Should I wait one more year for all the bugs to go away from this motor ? What's up with the fumes in the Cab ???

Love this website !!!!!!

HELP
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2004, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myfordf350
I'm not to sure now about spending hard earned money on the 2004 F-350 PSD FX4 Lariet CC, Long bed.

Any one please Advise before I let go of $43,000 take home dollars after taxes are taken out of my paychecks.

I live in San Diego and will be pulling a 10,000lb trailer over a 5,000 foot grade.

Should I wait one more year for all the bugs to go away from this motor ? What's up with the fumes in the Cab ???

Love this website !!!!!!

HELP
Buy it! Most PSDs never have a bit of trouble.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2004, 12:02 AM
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Ford is obligated to fix these problems, and they usually do without hesitation(speaking for myself only). I usually do not purchase the first model year of a new body style or new model, but I was in the market for a couple trucks, and I really am impressed with the 6.0L. The only problem I have had is the leak that has been discussed that started this thread. I agree it can be a real headache and very stressful, but unless they refuse to work on it, I don't think I would buy anything else.
I have one of the trucks going in for its second oil change on Thursday. When I made the appointment, I discussed some of these issues with the service department, and they are going to look at it again, even though it is not leaking as much,Yet. I spoke to them about the oil weight, and they are not suggesting changing from the Ford specs. Right or wrong for now, I am going to let them make the decisions, if they cannot figure it out, I will of course go another route.

On the other hand if the problem was one as others have had with early '03 models with bad injectors, loss of power, sluggishness, etc. I would problably not be patient.

As for fumes, neither of mine have had that problem.

I almost fogot, the service department did suggest that they will put 14 or 14.5 quarts instead of the full 15, they said this helps also. It does make sense of course, and in no way should effect the engine, with only 1 quart less. I have heard of many big rig drivers doing this, since many of them have similar issues.

Any comments?

Have a great night.

Jeremy
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2004, 12:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerBaby
Ford is obligated to fix these problems, and they usually do without hesitation(speaking for myself only). I usually do not purchase the first model year of a new body style or new model, but I was in the market for a couple trucks, and I really am impressed with the 6.0L. The only problem I have had is the leak that has been discussed that started this thread. I agree it can be a real headache and very stressful, but unless they refuse to work on it, I don't think I would buy anything else.
I have one of the trucks going in for its second oil change on Thursday. When I made the appointment, I discussed some of these issues with the service department, and they are going to look at it again, even though it is not leaking as much,Yet. I spoke to them about the oil weight, and they are not suggesting changing from the Ford specs. Right or wrong for now, I am going to let them make the decisions, if they cannot figure it out, I will of course go another route.

On the other hand if the problem was one as others have had with early '03 models with bad injectors, loss of power, sluggishness, etc. I would problably not be patient.

As for fumes, neither of mine have had that problem.

I almost fogot, the service department did suggest that they will put 14 or 14.5 quarts instead of the full 15, they said this helps also. It does make sense of course, and in no way should effect the engine, with only 1 quart less. I have heard of many big rig drivers doing this, since many of them have similar issues.

Any comments?

Have a great night.

Jeremy
14 will over fill the engine by .05 quarts. There is a extensive discussion of this on this forum. If you don't mind, ask them if they can check your oil pressure to see if the relief valve is sticking. Your oil pressure gage on the dash reads in the middle when you have greater than 7 PSI and low below that. I have a gage and mine is 120 plus pounds cold with Motorcraft 15W40 which is one of the reasons I changed to Mibil Delvac 1. I think it makes the main and other seals leak. Mine stopped when I changed oil.
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