Easy, inexpensive uprgades for 1988 F250 7.3, auto?
I'm new to the 7.3 diesel world and I didn't have the money for a new powerstroke 7.3 F250. So I bought an excellent condition, 104,000 miles 1988 F250 auto, non-turbo. I was wondering if there is anything cheap and simple I could do to the engine itself to increase the power for better towing. Would dual exhaust help? What about a hotter thermostat? Any advise would be appreciated.
I heard you can turn the pump up and gain more power. Although I'm not going to do this now, I know it will probably need to be done if I install a better flowing intake and exhaust. Problem is, how much do you turn it up? I don't want it to use too much fuel or damage the engine. I just know that when you increase the airflow in any engine, you need to add extra fuelto get the gains which isn't a problem with a gas carbed or efi engine. But, a desiel's fuel delivery is pre-set by the pump, not the amount of airflow coming through it, right?
correct. ya can turn the pump by removing a triangle shaped cover on the side of the injector pump. passnger side. theres a allen screw in there. ya can only get to it when the engein is turned just rite. do a search on this forum some guys have really explained it quiet well with pictures. before ya turn the fuel up get a pryo/exhuast gas temp gauge. this is how ya tell if ya turned it up to much by the temp. ya only want to turn it up a couple of flats a little tiny bit makes a huge diffrence.
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85 ford F 250 6.9l 5 speed 4x4 7.5ft snow plow flatbed with dual 4inch stacks 270,000 miles and counting
Go with 3 inch single exhaust with a see-through muffler (glasspack or resonator). The original air cleaner is more than enough, but could use some help coming in over the battery. Have a diesel shop set your timing to +8 degrees. As far as turning up the pump, I wouldn't go much more than 1/2 a flat on the max fuel screw. You should also invest in a pyrometer to make sure you don't melt down on a hill somewhere.
If you go over 1/2 to 1 flat on the screw you will leave such a cloud of black smoke that the air police will be mad at you.
If you leave any black smoke now you may be surprised that a three inch exhaust will clear up what you are leaving now, and the truck will run lots better without turning the fuel up.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
If you leave any black smoke now you may be surprised that a three inch exhaust will clear up what you are leaving now, and the truck will run lots better without turning the fuel up.
The truck doesn't smoke now and has the stock exhaust best I can tell. I know it has a stock muffler on it.
I noticed a couple of you said I need to get a pyrometer before I turn the fuel up. Where is the best place to install the probe? What temperature range should I keep it in?
I mentioned a pyro just because I know if I didn't, someone else would've. I think you can do some mods without one, like intake and exhaust. The gauge is only required if you want to try some wilder pump settings (like more than 1 flat). If you see a good deal of black when you stand on it, but like the way it performs otherwise then I'd go with the pyro.
As far as where to put the thermocouple (sender), I've seen them all over the place. I'd try to put it in one of the header pipes close to the flange, just down far enough to give you some room if you ever take it loose you could drop the flange below the studs without hitting.
I'm not going get real wild with the pump settings. I don't won't to affect the fuel economy much. The factory hp rating (according to whats on the valve cover) is 166. If I can get this up to around 185-190, and not affect the economy too much, I'll be happy with that. Do you think turning the pump up 1 flat and adding a better exhaust will get the hp up to what I'm looking for?
I also noticed someone said the pump timing can be advanced for more power. Is this hard to do? Does it require special tools? I can do pretty decent mechanic work with gas engines but I don't know much about diesels. If the task is fairly straightforward, I can probably do it myself. Is it basically like lining timing marks up on a timing chain?
I have a 1992 7.3 that I have played with pump settings on. I think your 88 should have the same setup. Pump timing is easy to change. There should be a mark on the top of the pump base and one on the housing it mounts to. Normally the marks are aligned. Ford spec calls for +or- .030 inches. To advance the timing loosen the three mounting bolts and rotate the pump toward the passenger side of the vehicle. The injectors will clatter louder and you will notice better throttle response with the timing advanced slightly. If you change the fuel volume, turning the allen screw clockwise increases volume if I remember correctly. The opposite of what you are used to with carb adjustments. Mine is set so I just see a LITTLE bit of black smoke when I step down on it in overdrive at low RPM. Also if your air cleaner housing has a big bowl on the underside of the lid you can improve air flow by removing it. You will hear a little intake roar though. A lower restriction exhaust should help like everyone says. Good luck.
Ford spec calls for +or- .030 inches. To advance the timing loosen the three mounting bolts and rotate the pump toward the passenger side of the vehicle.
Thanks for the advise.
About how much should I move it past the mark when I advance it? I'm sure every engine will be different, but on gas engines for instance, you may have to move the distributor an 1/8 inch or more to make a difference. Will I need to move the pump that much or is it much more sensitive?
