OK,then if I have to replace the rod & main bearings,can I do it while the engine is in the truck?or will I have to pull it?
(I will check with a manual guage today,but I now believe they need to be replaced,because I get a slight nock when I first start it up for a few seconds)
I have a 92 f150 5.0 4wd and am in the middle of replacing the oil pump with the engine in the vehicle. You have to remove the exhaust and starter motor, loosen the motor mounts and jack up the engine as high as it will go. Then unbolt the oil pan, but you probably wont be able to completely remove it, you have to move it around to get to the pump and pick up tube. Its doable but a real pain in the a**. I'm using studs in place of the bolts for the pump to help guide it in place. Dont forget to prime the pump. See the tech article in this site on replacing the oil pan gasket with the engine in the vehicle, it was helpful.
I also had low oil pressure and decided to put in a nice Melling high-flow pump. I read and re-read the steps in the shop manual, but didn't realize just how high you have to raise the engine. You really need about 10 inches to first unbolt the pan, then stuff your arms into the crack between pan and case to get to the oil pump and feed tube bolts. I also was not informed that the steering pump hose would rip the hose connection right off the steering pump reservoir if you don't drain and disconnect it before the raise. I barely got the pan out from between the cranked up engine and crankcase, and still am not 100% confindent that I got the pump and line bolts tight enough on reinstalling them. What a pain! Finally, I really screwed up when I couldn't find a convenient jack point to raise the engine and bent the heck out of the harmonic balancer (crank pulley). The high-flow pump works great, but I wound up putting in a new power steering pump and balancer. I would rather have the two weekends back and have paid the $300-$400 to have a shop replace the pump.
Good luck if you decide to do it.
'87 F150 x-cab w/302 E4OD
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