Nope, No trailer queen here 100% street driveable no purpose otherwise. In Ohio the lift laws will not include this truck because the lift law says it complise to trucks up to 10,000 lb. GVW ........ This one is a factory cab/chassis 11,000 lb. GVW.....The biggest problem is going to be fitting six and a half feet of tire wifth across the back still be able to get to my axle and be within 102 inches wide.
Use quad turbos, you're going to need the boost just to turn the tires around. *Not really, but it was supose to be funny.*
Some of the FWD cars made now a days I swear you have to pull the engine to replace the sparkplugs....I'd expect you'd have to do the same thing with the tires to have much clearence to do rear-end maintaince.
6-1/2ft. 78 inches, take that out of 102 inches and that comes out to be 24 inches of room to reach the pumkin.
Then you deal with the problems of ajusting the rear brakes, you'd have to squeeze through 24" hole then climb into the inside of the wheel a ways. I hope you're not clausterphobic.
By the way, for the record, Arkansas doesn't have a lift law so to speak. It has a max width law and that sometimes keeps the guys from seeing how many clouds their KCs can puncture.
Then there is the guys that pull up behind my stock height F150 and all I see in my rear view mirror is the word "DANNA" spelt backwards....
Yeh, from my experience it is nice to work on lifted trucks from underneath the truck, underneath the hood is a different story.......Trying to build a harness to hold me above the engine bay from my ceiling........Ha Ha.
Is there a way to determine the effectiveness of an unknown turbo using the A/R numbers or do you need the compressor diameter?
Any thoughts on the cheapest/ cost effective timing retard system or should I just stick to an msd unit? I am using a homemade HEI distributor, so it would have to be something the chevy fellas use. Thanks
Is there a way to determine the effectiveness of an unknown turbo using the A/R numbers or do you need the compressor diameter?
Any thoughts on the cheapest/ cost effective timing retard system or should I just stick to an msd unit? I am using a homemade HEI distributor, so it would have to be something the chevy fellas use. Thanks
I would be most interested in your homemade HEI distributor. I'm trying to figure that out myself, and about a day or two away from beheading a 460 dizzy and a GM large-head dizzy, and welding the HEI head to the Ford shaft. I've done it before, but its a lot of work.
Anyway, MSD does work, but depending on your ECM, you could do it in software too. Especially GM since most of the GM ECMs are very well documented at diy-efi.org and gmecm.org.
If your igniton is like mine and you go to hook up the power wire be sure to use the red wire from the fire wall not the red wire off the module, the color are backwards, the truck will start that way but will die as soon as you let off the key.
the draw through carborator does anyone know if there is pictures around?how about length and mixing eficiancy. or itercooling with this system?
i want to build a 2.8 with a single small turb to bring hp up to about 180.i thought about switching to efi but i was told the efi was not very good.( 3.8 mustang efi).anyone know anything about this?
hookin' find some used turbos and have 'em rebuilt....that'll be waaaay cheaper, plus you'll gain the knowledge of the guy who does your turbos for you.
that HEI works very well doesn't it JWtaylor. i have my GM module mounted inside the car under the dash with a little CPU fan on top with a heat sink. i still have that turbo if you're interested.
This is why a lot of the non-pro doorslammer guys run water based intercoolers, or run the airflow through an igloo cooler with a block of dry ice in it. After each run, they dump the "stuff" out and replace it with cold water or another dry ice block.
Very interesting reading!
One question... if you use a block of dry ice as your intercooler, wouldn't you be pumping CO2 into your intake, an dreducing the quantity of O2?
I assume it isn't a big deal if the drag race guys are doing it.
One question... if you use a block of dry ice as your intercooler, wouldn't you be pumping CO2 into your intake, an dreducing the quantity of O2?
I assume it isn't a big deal if the drag race guys are doing it.
You don't let the air into the inlet....you run it though the intake tubein like you always would, just have a hole cut in the cooler on each end and fill it with cold stuff. It's not really efficent since it's a straight through pipe moveing very fast....but it does a little good, probably good enough for them to compensate for the extra weight and carrying around another consumeable for your car and such and so on....
You don't let the air into the inlet....you run it though the intake tubein like you always would, just have a hole cut in the cooler on each end and fill it with cold stuff. It's not really efficent since it's a straight through pipe moveing very fast....but it does a little good, probably good enough for them to compensate for the extra weight and carrying around another consumeable for your car and such and so on....
later
bdraft
Yeah, he got confused because I mispoke. See, I assume when I'm posting, you can all read my mind and know what I'm thinking rather than what I'm typing.
You shove an air to air intercooler in the igloo, run the hoses to and from out holes in the igloo, then fill with chilled water or if the intercooler is at the bottom of the igloo, toss dry ice on top of it.
The water or c02 doesn't go into the engine, it merely cools the intercooler so much that the air going through it cools significantly, and is more dense.
