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Engine Seize on flathead, ok guys what do you do?

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Old 04-13-2004, 08:51 PM
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Question Engine Seize on flathead, ok guys what do you do?

The truck that I bought has been sitting in the barn for over 10 years and the engine is siezed. Its a V8 flathead on the 51. What do you suggest.
What would be the proper steps or procedures to resolved this?

Thanks.
 
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Old 04-13-2004, 10:07 PM
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How experienced are you in motor builds?

I had bought a Flathead from a guy, started to take it apart and a few of the pistons were really tight. I worked out 2 of them with a hammer and a block of wood, the walls were fine, but the third one wouldnt budge. After closer inspection the cylinder wall was rotted right through and rusted solid to the piston. Depends how serverley your block has been seized, you might be able to do something with it.
 
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Old 04-13-2004, 10:48 PM
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You can try by putting some penetrant through the spark plug holes and let it sit for a while. Try putting a strong arm (long bar with socket) on the crankshaft and try to turn it. If it moves your good. If it doesn't and only tightens the bolt time for dissasembly. Now you can try Joners method. If you still can't move any pistons remove the crankshaft by removing the main caps and rod caps. There will be at least 2 rod nuts you won't be able to get at with a regular socket. You will need one of those U-joint socket things. They are a mini u-joint that alows you to put a socket on for those really tight places. Try the wood block again. If it still won't move it will require breaking the pistons. Get a 3/4" - 1" steel bar about a foot long. Pound the bar right on the center of the piston. It will either move the piston or got through the top right on top of the wrist pin. This is the perfect spot to hit the piston since the piston is reinforced the most here. It WILL come out with this method. You will need a chisel because do to the closeness of the piston bore to the main cap supports. You must break the bottom of the piston off so the piston has enough room to get out of the bore. I've had to use that last method on the 2 blocks I've had to dissasemble but those blocks sat for years. That method took a piston out that was heavily rusted to a bore that had a crack run right down the side. It took 5 minutes. The valves are another story. It's best to use the proper tools for removing valves. You can get better information and help on your flathead V-8 in the Flathead engine forum on this site.
 
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Old 04-14-2004, 11:19 AM
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Marvel Mystery Oil down the cylinders, let it sit, then try to turn it. That stuff works wonders.

Ron
 
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Old 04-14-2004, 11:53 AM
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I've read a few threads on this stuff from other websites. Where do you get this stuff.
These discussions I've read, swear by it.
Is it that good??
 
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Old 04-14-2004, 01:16 PM
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Most hardware stores carry Marvel's, but don't get sidetracked about some super secret fix-all oil. The point is to get some petroleum-based fluid in the cylinder to aid in loosening the seizure. It will or it won't.
 
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Old 04-14-2004, 02:12 PM
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just something to get the pistons removed to replace all the rusted parts and cleaned up.
 
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Old 04-14-2004, 02:50 PM
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Don't use any steel on the pistons unless you don't care if you destroy them. I always use a wood block to remove them.Make it about the diameter of the cyl. I've used Marvel Mystery oil, transmission fluid, diesel fuel to soak them loose. PB bnlaster penatrating oil is a good product, but you will use alot of can on a project this size. Put what you want to try in the cyls for 2-3 days or so and let it do it's thing. Try to rock the crank with a socket and pry bar. Don't snap the bolt off. If it's still in the truck, put it in 3rd gear and try to rock the truck back and forth. The main thing is to have patience and let the fluid do it's thing!

Barry

50 F-1
 


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