alternator or battery or something else????

[7scott]

2000 E350

mega miles (230K)

problem..... battery idiot light came on last week when I would accelarate hard, then it would go off as the speed leveled out.

That went on for about three days.

then the light started staying on longer each day. Today after about 8 hours of driving the battery light stayed on.

then I started to notice the voltmeter started to decline.

Within 30 minutes or so, I was dead on the road.

Towed home ($174.00).........

Pulled alternator and had it checked at Pep Boys...... The folks there said alternator is O.K. .....

I am going to purchase a battery in the A.M (I can use a new one anyway)... and also have the old one checked out ..... (maybe some other auto parts store )....

BTW I also did a regulator check as per the Haynes manual.....

any ideas what is the culprit????

Scott

[Slade901]

My suggestion would be replace the serpentine belt. Check the serpentine belt tensioner to make sure it's still fine and its bolt not loose.

Check for loose electrical connection not just in the battery but from batter to all other connections.

[7scott]

hey Slade, thanx for the quick reply.....


I checked the belt, alll seems normal...as for the tensioner, when I removed the belt to take out the alternator, the tensioner seem O.K. too.

I'm wondering if these symptoms are indicitive of a bad battery?? The fine folks at peepboys think it is!!!???

Tomorrow, I'll go over all the connections and check for looseness....

Scott

[shorebird]

I feel that it must be a belt problem. It is slipping on acceleration. Go ahead and replace the belt but also replace the tensioner. With that many miles on the motor I would go all the way and do the water pump and thermostat also. And while I have the front off the motor I'd do the timing chain. The cost would probally be under $200.00 and you would gain alot of Peace of Mind.

[HomerWinzlow]

With that many miles it could be a combination of things, but I can tell you I have replace a many Ford alternators that would charge at cruise but fail under acceleration. I would inspect everything from wiring to belt, tensioner, grounds and battery and replace as needed, but with the alternator already removed and having just paid 170.00 tow bill I would replace the alternator for sure considering your miles.

[7scott]

all right.....this is the deal.....

changed out the battery(I still nedded a new one anyhow).... but the light still came on at high RPMs.....

Then changed the alternator, and, voila!!!!!, no more light!!!

I've since drove approx. 500 miles (yes, I put tons o' miles on..lol) and everything is in good working order.....

So, Homerwinzlow seemed to nail it!!! thanks to all ...

I am happy agian..........

Scott