Pyrometer thermocouple location
#2
12-07-2002, 04:41 PM
#3
12-07-2002, 05:05 PM
Pyrometer thermocouple location
Should be mounted before the turbo. This gives you the most accurate reading of the exhaust at its hottest point. You can accurately monitor the temp to prevent any damage to the cylindrs, turbo, etc..
I think that I have heard that after the turbo reads 250-300 degrees cooler, not positive.
I think that I have heard that after the turbo reads 250-300 degrees cooler, not positive.
#4
12-07-2002, 07:08 PM
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Pyrometer thermocouple location
I dont know how much clearance you have in the van's engine compartment.
The pyrometer sensor (stinger) should be mounted about 6 inches from the connection of the manifold and the Y pipe. Make a 3/8 hole in the y pipe so the stinger can be mounted unobstructed - either a clamp on style or a screw in style. The screw in style will screw into a short nipple welded onto the y pipe.
I prefer them mounted into the y pipe just after the manifold because you dont have to take time to figure out adding 300 degrees to the reading on the pyrometer if you mount it after the turbo. Be sure the stinger is of good quality. cheaper is like living on the edge.
good luck.
The pyrometer sensor (stinger) should be mounted about 6 inches from the connection of the manifold and the Y pipe. Make a 3/8 hole in the y pipe so the stinger can be mounted unobstructed - either a clamp on style or a screw in style. The screw in style will screw into a short nipple welded onto the y pipe.
I prefer them mounted into the y pipe just after the manifold because you dont have to take time to figure out adding 300 degrees to the reading on the pyrometer if you mount it after the turbo. Be sure the stinger is of good quality. cheaper is like living on the edge.
good luck.
#6
12-07-2002, 08:51 PM
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Pyrometer thermocouple location
Yep, that's how mine is installed.
Quadzilla
'95 F-350XLT Crew Cab SRW 4X4 PSD, 35X12.50X16.5's, Limited slip 4.10's, Hypermax downpipe, gutted EBPV, "Catless" in Seattle, "Renegade" 4" exhaust system, CTFD sticker, Air bags on all four corners, TYMAR intake, shimmed fpr, Diablo Delta chip, Fumoto valve, Autometer pyrometer, Sonnax valve, Tricumulator springs, Tru-Cool, HX mod, Magnefine tranny filter,
4R100 pan, Red Line synthetic in transfer case and both diffs, reverse shackle kit.
And a wish list that gets longer every day.
(Thank God for a wife that likes big trucks.)
Pictures: http://community.webshots.com/user/quadzilla100
Quadzilla
'95 F-350XLT Crew Cab SRW 4X4 PSD, 35X12.50X16.5's, Limited slip 4.10's, Hypermax downpipe, gutted EBPV, "Catless" in Seattle, "Renegade" 4" exhaust system, CTFD sticker, Air bags on all four corners, TYMAR intake, shimmed fpr, Diablo Delta chip, Fumoto valve, Autometer pyrometer, Sonnax valve, Tricumulator springs, Tru-Cool, HX mod, Magnefine tranny filter,
4R100 pan, Red Line synthetic in transfer case and both diffs, reverse shackle kit.
And a wish list that gets longer every day.
(Thank God for a wife that likes big trucks.)
Pictures: http://community.webshots.com/user/quadzilla100
#7
12-07-2002, 10:26 PM
Pyrometer thermocouple location
Me too. It puts the sender closer to the source of the heat. The main reason for a pyro is to protect the engine before the turbo. At around 1350 or so is when you can start causing damage to the valves on a PSD. Using it to gauge cool down temps for the turbo is kind of a secondary use.
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