King Pin Questions??
#1
King Pin Questions??
How do you tell if the king Pin is bad without taking it out. My straight axle is pulled off the frame, so what types of signs do you guys look for.
What has been the cost for machine shops to press it out. Would they do it right away if you brought the axle in or is it one of those wait a week deals.
Is the machine shop the only place or will your average machanic shop do it, and do they have the press to remove it.
it can be removed with the axle off right? I called some mechanic and they said they can't take it out with the axle pulled.
If you do replace it, is the kit 100% easier to reassemble or is it just as hard as when taking it out.
Thanks.
What has been the cost for machine shops to press it out. Would they do it right away if you brought the axle in or is it one of those wait a week deals.
Is the machine shop the only place or will your average machanic shop do it, and do they have the press to remove it.
it can be removed with the axle off right? I called some mechanic and they said they can't take it out with the axle pulled.
If you do replace it, is the kit 100% easier to reassemble or is it just as hard as when taking it out.
Thanks.
Last edited by sancochojoe; 04-04-2004 at 10:35 AM.
#2
I'm right there, with you, Daddyo. I've got my whole susp. off and just took the kingpins out of the axle. You don't need a machine shop to charge you through the nose, and my axle was off when I removed the kingpins. In fact, mine was so bad, the RH pin was siezed and you couldn't turn it.
What I did was soaked them in penetrating oil for about 3 days. The axle was sitting upright on the floor, and I sprayed the tops and the joints on the side (between the steering knuckle and axle). I soaked them on both end of the axle everytime I went outside for something.
After 3 days, I got out a heavy drift pin, a pair of visegrips to hold it with, and what I called a BFH (big *!@& hammer!). The pass. side came out somewhat easily (stop and soak the joint with penetrating oil while doing it and wait a few minutes before starting again). The siezed side required a much bigger BFH that a neighbor brought over. Just have someone hold the other end of the axle for you, so it doesn't bounce around, and just have at it, man! Get your frustrations out!
If you don't have a set of bushing drivers, go get a set. They're cheap. You'll need them to remove/put in the bushings.
______________________________
"Step up or step aside"
Von Walp and the VooDoo Daisy
What I did was soaked them in penetrating oil for about 3 days. The axle was sitting upright on the floor, and I sprayed the tops and the joints on the side (between the steering knuckle and axle). I soaked them on both end of the axle everytime I went outside for something.
After 3 days, I got out a heavy drift pin, a pair of visegrips to hold it with, and what I called a BFH (big *!@& hammer!). The pass. side came out somewhat easily (stop and soak the joint with penetrating oil while doing it and wait a few minutes before starting again). The siezed side required a much bigger BFH that a neighbor brought over. Just have someone hold the other end of the axle for you, so it doesn't bounce around, and just have at it, man! Get your frustrations out!
If you don't have a set of bushing drivers, go get a set. They're cheap. You'll need them to remove/put in the bushings.
______________________________
"Step up or step aside"
Von Walp and the VooDoo Daisy
#4
Signs of bad pins are like Sixoh had where they are binding or there will be a lot of "up and down" movement in the spindle. You can do them yourself as far as changing the bushings but, if you use the brass bushings , they will have to be "reamed" by a shop. Lastly, yes, they should go back together easily. They should be a nice snug fit but, nothing that will have to be forced.
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