1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

converter stopped up?

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Old 04-03-2004, 01:06 AM
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converter stopped up?

1987 e150 van 302 efi got stuck in snow this winter son was driving and he was shifting forward to reverse several times to rock it free when the engine began to run rough and we saw flames coming from the tailpipe..the engine will not restart..I pulled codes and it showed the tps was bad..replaced it but no change..took off timing cover and checked static timing..it had not jumped..checked fuel pressure..checked compression..all good..it makes a very weak spark but won't start even with starting fluid...I am hopelessly lost...someone have any ideas?
 
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Old 04-03-2004, 02:40 AM
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Check the coil and the ignition module. Some parts stores can test the module for you.
 
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Old 04-03-2004, 05:37 PM
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Thanks for the input but what I feel it has to be is something directly resulting from the engine becoming overheated..I will check the mentioned items though
 
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Old 04-03-2004, 07:05 PM
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That's all I could think of, just thought the weak spark might be a clue. Might be a good idea to post in the 302 forum, lots more engine expert traffic there. Good luck!
 
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Old 04-04-2004, 05:12 PM
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Check the module on the distribitor. They don't like alot of heat. I believe it requires a special socket to remove the module, at least the stock one on my '86 did. The new MSD distribitor I replaced it with uses an allen wrench to remove module.
 
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Old 04-24-2004, 05:18 PM
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did not work

I checked module and it's good now what?
 
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Old 04-24-2004, 10:25 PM
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Check for the looseness of the camshaft gear and timing chain. On our 1982 E150 351W V8, the book states the timing chain slack should be 5 degrees or less. When I check our van, it was way too loose and has 20 degree. Took off the timing cover and found out that the camshaft plastic coated gears were broken to bits and the timing chain itself had stretched out. It causes a lot of timing problem. The replacement camshaft gear was of heavy metal and no more plastic coated gears.

To test the 351W engine, turn the engine counter-clockwise to 30 degree BDC (turning the large bolt on the vibration dampener with a large socket and breaker bar. Turn the engine clockwise to 0 degree TDC (make sure you don't past over the 0 degree TDC). Turn the engine clockwise while looking at the distributor rotor (distributor cap removed), keep slowly turning the engine clockwise and once you notice the rotor moves then stop turning the engine. Look at the timing mark on the vibration dampener and if it is 5 degree BDC or less then it is ok but if it is past 5 degree BDC then camshaft gear and timing chain needs replacement.
 
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Old 04-24-2004, 11:55 PM
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tried that

I just got cleaned up from working on my other van Slade...I'll check the timing gears again..already took everything off the front and found no excess slack and no damage...chain and gears were replaced less than a years ago...while you're here...I can flare copper plumbing pipes but don't know how to double flare a 3/16's steel brake line...can you advise me with some tips? Geno
 
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Old 04-25-2004, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by geson
I just got cleaned up from working on my other van Slade...I'll check the timing gears again..already took everything off the front and found no excess slack and no damage...chain and gears were replaced less than a years ago...while you're here...I can flare copper plumbing pipes but don't know how to double flare a 3/16's steel brake line...can you advise me with some tips? Geno
I've heard that flaring a 3/16 steel tubing is very difficult. A lot of folks have recommended to use a Hydraulic Line Flaring Tool at http://www.mpbrakes.com/ac71400a.htm

BTW, make sure you test the compression of each piston. Do a dry and wet test on your piston compression.
 


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