Guess-timate on Fuel Mileage Effect on Change of Gears
#1
Guess-timate on Fuel Mileage Effect on Change of Gears
Can anyone tell me what I might see for a fuel mileage change when I swap in 4.10 gears into my '92 F150 I-6 automatic?
I am currently running 3.08 gears, according to the door sticker, and I have 31x10.5x15 tires.
Currently I get 14 mpg city/ 17mpg hwy.
I am currently running 3.08 gears, according to the door sticker, and I have 31x10.5x15 tires.
Currently I get 14 mpg city/ 17mpg hwy.
#2
When I had the 3.08s in my 300, I got 19 highway/ 14 around town. I put in 3.73s and changed from 29" to 30" tires and now I get 16 everywhere. 4.10 is a good rear end for a V-8 powered truck, but IMHO it's too big a gear for a 300. You're going to be pulling about 2160 RPM @ 65 in OD with an automatic and over 2450 with a manual tranny. Since your engine's torque peak is at or below 2000, that really seems excessive. Go for the 3.73s instead, they'll work perfectly with those tires.
#5
OK,
Now I am the one lost about this.
I was thinking the lower number 3:08) gear gave you better fuel economy & a gutless truck and the higher numbers (4:10) gave you crappy mileage but a truck that is more stout.
OK, so tell me what would happen with my truck.
I currently have the 302 with AOD running 3:08
I have thought about putting a trac-loc in with a 3:55 gear.
Now I am the one lost about this.
I was thinking the lower number 3:08) gear gave you better fuel economy & a gutless truck and the higher numbers (4:10) gave you crappy mileage but a truck that is more stout.
OK, so tell me what would happen with my truck.
I currently have the 302 with AOD running 3:08
I have thought about putting a trac-loc in with a 3:55 gear.
#6
#7
The thinking is this: with a small engine geared too high (numerically low) it has to spend so much time at wide open throttle to get the truck moving that you end up sucking up alot of gas. A bigger engine, or a lower gear, will mean the engine isn't working as hard and ends up getting better mileage, and more power too. Basically what you want to do is match the engine size and gearing to the wieght of the truck. A healthy mis-match in iether direction can send fuel mileage down the drain.
That is what happened when I drove my 6500 lb crew cab with only a 351 and 3.55 gears with 33" tires (effective ratio about 3.30). Around town the thing would guzzle gas because I would have to floor it to get it moving from a dead stop if there was any kind of hill. Out on the highway, as long as the road was flat, it got great mileage, but pulling a hill it was pedal on the floor, driving in the right lane, watching the gas gauge creap left. This was even more so when loaded. Now with 4.56 gears I get better mileage and more power, as long as I don't drive too fast (no OD).
That is what happened when I drove my 6500 lb crew cab with only a 351 and 3.55 gears with 33" tires (effective ratio about 3.30). Around town the thing would guzzle gas because I would have to floor it to get it moving from a dead stop if there was any kind of hill. Out on the highway, as long as the road was flat, it got great mileage, but pulling a hill it was pedal on the floor, driving in the right lane, watching the gas gauge creap left. This was even more so when loaded. Now with 4.56 gears I get better mileage and more power, as long as I don't drive too fast (no OD).
Last edited by SoCalDesertRider; 04-01-2004 at 11:00 PM.
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#8
Originally Posted by SoCalDesertRider
The thinking is this: with a small engine geared too high (numerically low) it has to spend so much time at wide open throttle to get the truck moving that you end up sucking up alot of gas. A bigger engine, or a lower gear, will mean the engine isn't working as hard and ends up getting better mileage, and more power too. Basically what you want to do is match the engine size and gearing to the wieght of the truck. A healthy mis-match in iether direction can send fuel mileage down the drain.
It is a 88 F-150 with a stock 302 AOD 4X4.
Right now it has the 3:08 in the rear. At least that is what the tags states.
I'm also going to put a locker in the rear end when & if I change gears.
I want to get normal MPG & not to lose any power.
#11
#12
#13
Yeah I wouldn't go any higher (numerically lower) than 3.55. If you do alot of offroading and not much fast freeway driving, 3.73 would work there too. I mention that because you said you wanted a locking diff. By the way, I put a LockRight in the back axle of the F350 and I love it. It's a whole different truck now between the locker and the low gears.
#14
Originally Posted by SoCalDesertRider
By the way, I put a LockRight in the back axle of the F350 and I love it. It's a whole different truck now between the locker and the low gears.
The last time I went serious off-roading had some expensive results that I'm working on now. Pics are in my gallery.
This is what they are advertising....
Get locker traction with limited slip smoothness!
Ford: 8.8 in. ring gear, 10-bolt, 31-spline shafts, Powertrax No-Slip Traction System
The Powertrax No-Slip Traction System is the latest design in traction-adding differential technology. It combines the smooth operation of a limited-slip differential with the traction performance of a locking differential. A precise synchronization mechanism eliminates the ratcheting sounds typical of other locking differentials. Special gear and spring designs reduce the backlash and therefore driveline windup. Only ultra-strength material that is 67% stronger than titanium is used. Installation is simple because no ring and pinion set-up is required. In addition, no special tools or oils are needed. Step-by-step, model-specific instructions are provided with every kit.
PWT-92-0688-3108 $419.95
Ford: 8.8 in. ring gear, 10-bolt, 31-spline shafts, Powertrax No-Slip Traction System
The Powertrax No-Slip Traction System is the latest design in traction-adding differential technology. It combines the smooth operation of a limited-slip differential with the traction performance of a locking differential. A precise synchronization mechanism eliminates the ratcheting sounds typical of other locking differentials. Special gear and spring designs reduce the backlash and therefore driveline windup. Only ultra-strength material that is 67% stronger than titanium is used. Installation is simple because no ring and pinion set-up is required. In addition, no special tools or oils are needed. Step-by-step, model-specific instructions are provided with every kit.
PWT-92-0688-3108 $419.95
Last edited by parks911; 04-01-2004 at 11:45 PM.
#15
Wow, yeah I remember you posted those pics of your truck a long time ago. That's too bad that happened. Glad you're getting it fixed!
I'm not sure which Powertrax locker Summitt sells. Powertrax also makes the NoSlip which is supposed to be a little less harsh than the LockRight but costs about $150 more. It's the same basic design as the LockRight but it has some springs in it that soften the engagement. I saw one at the drive line shop a couple weeks ago. The LockRight is alright for me though, I can live with the clacking. If you drive in alot of snow and ice and dont do much mud or sand and as you said only do mild 4wheeling, you might want a limited slip instead of a locker. I have limited slips in front and rear in the Bronco and they help alot.
I'm not sure which Powertrax locker Summitt sells. Powertrax also makes the NoSlip which is supposed to be a little less harsh than the LockRight but costs about $150 more. It's the same basic design as the LockRight but it has some springs in it that soften the engagement. I saw one at the drive line shop a couple weeks ago. The LockRight is alright for me though, I can live with the clacking. If you drive in alot of snow and ice and dont do much mud or sand and as you said only do mild 4wheeling, you might want a limited slip instead of a locker. I have limited slips in front and rear in the Bronco and they help alot.