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  #61  
Old 02-28-2010, 01:33 PM
clof2001 clof2001 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeB 88 View Post
Try soaking the plug with some Liquid wrench, then take the long box wrench and hit with the hammer like Danger Dave mentioned.
So I finally got it off and put some fresh mobil 1 synthetic atf in there. Used a 24 mm socket and a breaker bar and it came undone, helps a lot when you have the right tools! Didn't look too dirty, it was a dark purple color, and I immediately thought "royal purple" when it came out, although I don't know if thats what was in it or if that is what the fluid looks like when it's dirty. It appears it may have been changed after all when they did the clutch.

There were some metal shavings on the drain plug, not much, maybe about enough to cover a dime or a nickel. I'm guessing this is normal though, I don't drive it hard or grind it all all, and with almost 120k its probably just wear and tear. Shifts great now and it's especially easier to get it into first for some reason.

Thanks for the help!!
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  #62  
Old 03-29-2010, 08:34 AM
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Yep, I'm bring up this old thread instead of starting a new one. Guess it's finally my turn to change my oil. Is it better to do it when it's cold, or warm like changing engine oil?
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  #63  
Old 03-29-2010, 09:24 AM
BarnieTrk BarnieTrk is offline
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Yep, I'm bring up this old thread instead of starting a new one. Guess it's finally my turn to change my oil. Is it better to do it when it's cold, or warm like changing engine oil?
MikeB,

My opinion is that it doesn't matter if it's warm or cold. There is no filter, so any sludge or particles should flow out the drain with the lube regardless if its warm or cold.

The main thing is that you DO CHANGE IT at the prescribed intervals, about every 30K miles. If you notice any transmission seal drips/leaks, then I'd also suggest you check and top off the fluid level every time you change your motor oil. The same goes for your differential lube too.

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  #64  
Old 03-29-2010, 04:20 PM
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Thanks, It's supposed to be another rainy day Friday so I know what I'll be doing.
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  #65  
Old 03-29-2010, 04:47 PM
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I don't know if the fluid being warm makes it drain quicker. However what I do know is if you don't have a lift adding the fluid using a hand pump can be a messy job. You basically are filling it until it overflows so you want to have something underneath in case you get an overflow. The fluid is cheap but the mess is a pain in the you know where.
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  #66  
Old 03-30-2010, 07:16 AM
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I have a small squirt bottle that I plan on using to refill the trans. It will take a bit to keep refilling the bottle, but it's all I have.
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  #67  
Old 03-30-2010, 12:42 PM
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yes, by all means have the fluid warm when you change it. there is no filter but any thing that may settle to the bottom of the case will be in suspention (mixed with the oil) and will drain out, other wise you could still have crud/debris on the bottom of the inside of the transmission that may not drain out.
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  #68  
Old 09-29-2010, 08:57 PM
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I have used the squirt top of an empty gear oil bottle to do this it screws right on to NAPA's ATF bottles. A little messy but cheap and quick. In my opinion the best thing to use for this is a primer bulb from an outboard boat engine, and 2 short pieces of vinyl tube (so you can see the fluid in it). It's $10 max and indispensable for a variety of fluid-related tasks. You can even slide 2 sizes of tube over each other to make an adapter for bleeding and filling various systems with pressure.
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  #69  
Old 12-23-2010, 02:52 AM
g_k50 g_k50 is offline
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Bumping this thread, if you have a manual 5 speed overdrive in a Light Truck, the schedule that I have calls for 60,000 miles with normal service. Then again at 120,000 miles. Down at the end under Special Conditions it indicates that if towing or using a camper "As Required"

Maintain to keep from breaking.

Fix what breaks when it breaks.

Don't fix what's not broken.
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  #70  
Old 12-23-2010, 05:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeB 88 View Post
Yep, I'm bring up this old thread instead of starting a new one. Guess it's finally my turn to change my oil. Is it better to do it when it's cold, or warm like changing engine oil?
techinically iy is not oil . it is Mercon ATF. I have what I believe is the best method for a DIY. get yourself about 3 feet of clear hose and a funnel. or make one with what you have.I use on one of those spouts that screw onto either size bottle. I extended it with 1.5 ' of clear tubing and I screw an old bottle onto it and cut the bottom out......before you start, feed the tube into the engine bay on the drivers side down toward the tranny. then crawl under the truck remove the fill plug first and then the drain plug. let it drain out. put the plug back in and put the tube into the fill plug. if you have help someone can start filling the tranny from above it takes about 3.2 quarts.
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  #71  
Old 12-23-2010, 10:01 AM
g_k50 g_k50 is offline
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What size diameter clear tubing?
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  #72  
Old 12-23-2010, 10:32 AM
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What size diameter clear tubing?
I forget the exact size I think 3/8 th" I just took my spout to true value and what ever hose fit. cut a hole in the bottom of the jug. you can use a quart bottle also.....I sometimes get a wire and hang the bottle......POC

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  #73  
Old 12-23-2010, 10:42 AM
g_k50 g_k50 is offline
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Ok, good I've gotta do this today. So I'm off to the hardware store.
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  #74  
Old 12-25-2010, 10:46 PM
g_k50 g_k50 is offline
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The oil I took out today did not look good, 85,000 miles and it was black and burnt smelling, so I delayed this maintenance too long.

Now the question is; do I drain and refill to wash the remaining burnt oil out? If so how many miles should I put on the trans before draining?

I'm replacing with Mercon V. Owner's manual suggests 2.8 quarts.

The three rubber plugs are still in place.
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  #75  
Old 12-26-2010, 06:35 AM
BarnieTrk BarnieTrk is offline
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g_k50,
If your plugs are NOT leaking, that's a good thing.
After you drive it (more than just to the end of the driveway), park on a level spot, let it cool down then recheck the fluid level, and top off or add as needed to bring it to the bottom of the fill hole.

Regarding changing it again soon ---
Bottomline is: you finally changed it - that's good.
Yep, you waited too long to change it - that's not good, but it is what it is.
Whatever change interval makes you feel good...like your manual said, "As Required" is what you should do from here on out.

Frankly, now that you've got fresh ATF fluid in there, I won't worry about the few spoonfuls of old, stale fluid that didn't drain out. I do make my Ranger earn it's keep, so I don't wait 60K miles between changes - I try to change mine at 30K miles. I'd suggest you shorten your ATF change interval up as well. As you well know now, it's not a big job, so if you were to aim at 30K mile ATF change intervals, that can't be bad.......
HAVE A GREAT NEW YEAR!
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Old 12-26-2010, 06:35 AM
 
 
 
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