I have omni MP182 2k urethane surfacer (primer), and I read this in another post:

originally posted by Carlene:
Epoxy Primer is a sealer type primer. The sandable is more porous and can allow moisture through. If you're painting bare metal, you'll need some kind of sealer primer otherwise you'll have problems down the road.


What kind of problems down the road, and how far down the road, whats the real skinny on epoxy primer first, and how necessary is it?

Im not after a show quality paint job...just want a decent lookin truck, advice suggestions?

Kevin

 

<cr>
Before epoxy, there was self-etch, and before self-etch, there was sandable lacquer primer. That's sort of the history.

Epoxy is normally used on bare steel or used as a sealer between two different types (i.e lacquer & urethane) of paint. On bare steel, it seals in rust and seals out moisture. An excellent base. When doing a repaint, it protects the old paint from the new paint.

The latest I have heard is that PPG recommends you apply epoxy to a repair area (where the paint has been stripped), then you do your filler work, and finish by applying another coat of epoxy. This seals in the filler.

My usual procedure is to apply epoxy, then the 2K surfacer. My finish coat goes over the surfacer.

Some 2K surfacers are not really designed to be applied to bare steel. I don't use Omni MP182 so I can't really advise you. Might be an idea to check to make sure you don't run into problems.

 

Aekisu, Should I take the P-sheets (is that what they're called?) back to KC auto paints where I got the primer,color, and clear and ask them to hook me up with the right epoxy primer to go underneath or can you suggest one from that product line that will work good, and how much should I be expecting to plink down? Is a gallon enough for my 73 f-100 4x4?

Also If I may be a pain for another sec here....should I go light coats and half **** in the bed, and maybe paint the bed first since it is gonna be rhino lined? kind of use it as practice? Do I even need to waste the elbow grease sanding the primer in the bed? We painted a utility trailer my brother bought last night with some cheap paint to get a feel for the gun and how everything works, and we are almost ready

thanks for all your help
It is appreciated
Kevin.....getting excited

 

How much bare metal is exposed? If you have whole doors, fenders etc completely bare, then it would be best to get the epoxy, but if you have mostly sanded old paint, with some bare prep areas, then your 2K primer will probably be good enough.

More important than what product to use, is to get the bare metal CLEAN before priming. It's harder to get paint to stick to bare metal than old paint. I'm a believer in the water based prep washes, (metal etch) most paint companies make it. PPG's is DX-579. It's not costly, reduces 2 to 1 with water, and only takes a few minutes to use. Dry it off really good, and give it about 10 minutes, then prime.

marc

 

okay, thanks, the whole truck is bare metal

 

<cr>
For p-sheet and MSDS sheets, take a look at this PPG information site.

Although I mix-n-match products, the safest way is to go with one product line. Looking through the docs, it appears epoxy primer MP170 may be the way to go. I did notice a warning MP or MX primers should not be combined with other product lines. Check with your vendor though, to make sure. BTW, MP170 has a flashtime of 15 minutes and a recoat time of 3 days.

I can't remember the brand name but the last time I went to get my trunk shot with liner, I was told they would not gaurantee the job because the bed had been repainted. The concern being that the new paint would lift.

 

Icicle
Epoxy primers are a great but very expensive way to prime bare metal. What I use is a metal prep and cleaner then when it's dry I spray on a coat of zinc chromate (wash primer, vinyl wash, Korlar), then my 2K primer it has always worked well and lasted a long time. Epoxy primer is the way to go if it's going to be left to the elements for a long period of time. What ever you decide to use make sure that the metal is clean and you probably won't have any problems.

Chris
Alberta

 

uh-oh, how much is epoxy primer gonna cost?

 

I just bought 1 gallon of epoxy primer and it came with 1gallon of reducer and activator and it cast me 100 dollars, but the paint store I buy at seems a little high on prices but it closest for me.

 

F series

You're not far off the last gallon of DP90 that I bought was 130 dollars (canadian) for both hardener and primer. Keep in mind that a gallon will go a real long way.

Chris
Alberta

 

Hey guys, sorry to bump a really old thread, but Im getting ready to do this next week, gonna buy epoxy primer on wed or thurs, should I be concerned about the age of the paint I spent $400 on thats 18 months old, its been in the closet in our bedroom, so It hasnt gotten cold/frozen........

 

<cr>
Your main problem will be the settling that has occurred. All the pigment will be rock solid. Take it to a paint store and get it shaken.

 

Great, thanks for the advice, I'll take it with me when I buy the Epoxy primer, you just saved me some gas money because I wouldnt have thought of it......

 

there is a difference between epoxy primer, and primer surfacer... you must use both, as in spray the bare metal with epoxy primer, and spray the primer with primer surfacer which preps the area for paint, the pores close after curing, so when the paint seeps into the pores, they close on the paint holding it to your car. Thus the reason Maaco jobs dont survive, they dont use a real primer surfacer not to mention to cat pi$$ they call paint... but thats a whole other story..

 

Okay...based on your guys recomendations, back to the auto paint store, and this is what I have now.........

1. DX579 Metal Cleaner
2. Omni AU MP 170 epoxy Primer (1 gallon)
3. Omni AU MP 175 Epoxy primer catalyst (2 quarts)
4. Omni AU MP 182 2K Urethane Surfacer (1 gallon)
5. Omni AU MH 165 Fast Primer hardener (1 quart)
6. Omni AU Basecoat (1 gallon) in Ski Doo Yellow
7. reducer (its out in garage, cant remember number)
8. Omni AU MC161 High solids urethane clear (1 gallon)
9. Omni AU MH168 Slow topcoat hardener (1 quart)
10. Omni AU MH169 Hi-Temp topcoat Hardener

Please explain the MH168 and MH169 to me, Im a little confused as to their correct mixing and application

Other than that I think Im good to go right? I will be printing out 4 star customs step by step sticky to aid me in this process.

any other last minute tips? Im concerned this will be hard in my garage, but it will have to do, I also bought 2 high quality (or so they seem) respirators at harbor freight tools (I suppose upon reflection thats an oxymoron, nothing at HFT is high quality LOL) Im also concerned about temperature in garage when doing this, its been in the 50's here, is that too cold, should I find an acceptable way to heat it first?