Hello there, newby here! I have been reading alot about the timing chain issue, and it has me paranoid about every little click that I hear. Can anyone tell me what exactly this will be sounding like? I know they say to go by RPM's and you might hear it around 2500-3000 but what will it sound like. Will it be a sound that when you hear it you will think "what the he**"? Or is it something that you have to really listen for. While idling i can hear the typical sounds of the engine, ie. belts, and stuff kicking on and off, etc. Will it sound like that or will it be louder?? I hope someone can help me out here and give me some peace of mind!
Good question, I have never 'heard' a timing chain going out noise in a car motor. I have heard it in motorcycles as you sit on top of the motor and you can hear the high pitched whining\metal squeal as it rubs against the valve cover. I'm guessing they may be talking about it that way. An easier way is to hook up the timing light, shine it on the timing mark and rapp the throttle. If the mark moves away and comes back smoothly chain should be good. If it moves away and comes back but is bouncing at the top and bottom then the chain is bad. It is very distinct when you watch it because you will say 'What can't it make up it's mind where it wants to be?' When you give it throttle hold it for a few seconds then let it drop.
It is a good idea when you put on a new chain to go ahead and spring for a new water pump. No sense in pulling everthing apart twice.
I'm holding my breath on the engine in my Mountineer,as I write this.Sometimes,on startup,it sounds like a motorcycle chain being pulled over the edge of a workbench.It lasts about 1 to 2 seconds.As soon as the oil pressure is up,it disappears.It usually only happens after sitting over night.Once the car runs,its good for the rest of the day. It occurs about every other morning.
Of course it won't do it when I'm trying to have the dealer hear it.I only have 4000 miles left to get something done by the dealer.100,000 miles and the warrantee is gone.
Another happy note:This motor isn,t rebuildable! Block is too thin!
This is the word I get from the places I've checked for a rebuilt long block.Most rebuilders bore & replace the pistons for a good job they can warranty.This is only what I heard from about six or seven random searches for a replacement engine on the web.
I personally retired from building about fifteen years ago,so this is second hand word on this subject.If you or anyone else knows, first hand, if this motor can handle a safe overbore,then I'm interested.
so it is a pretty distinct sound then I take it. I have not heard anything like that with mine, but with my luck it will start right after i post this. That is hard to believe that the block is to thin to rebuild! makes you wonder why they built it like that to begin with, hmm. Is this the only thing that I should listen for? I know there was some talk about the guides and the sounds that they make when the engine is around 2500 RPM. Anything I should be listening for there?
Thanks for your imput!!
I know that you can over bore the motor and then sleeve it back down to smaller than stock and bore it back to stock. I've done this to real old motors that you can not replace now days. But it has to be done right the first time.
Huffer thinking here.
Before you jump here you have a 50/50 chance that the motor may not be that bad if you can get one head off and see if there is any deep cuts in the cylinders if not, you can cut the ridge off the top of the cylinders and hone it out. Put over size piston rings on and your back on the road. I've done this and it works with know problems. You only want to cut what you have to no more. I've been out in the junkyard today and pulled me 2 sohc motors they run just the timing chain problems. One is a R/O the other was T-boned. But I can not complain 2 motors for 100.00 Plus core. Rebiuld time LOL, I love this part.
Your right about the 2500 to3000 rpm range.The service manager at the dealer told me to listen for a spark knock sound when cold.
About the blocks being too thin for reboring,this came from the engine sources I've checked with,online. I know these new engines are all thin wall castings, and they do limit how much can be removed to clean up the bores. I too,find it hard to believe a person can't remove enough metal, safely,to use a slightly thin cut(maybe .010") so new pistons could be installed!
We need to call Ford parts & see if an oversize piston is available.Maybe the rebuilders just don't want to get involved with those cam drives so they just say the engine isn't rebuildable!
I have located some used ones from $585.00 to $3000.00 online.
I've sleeved many car,truck,and tractor motors.This has always been the way to go to save a particular block.Works super! The more we discuss this situation the more I think SOMEBODY is trying to blow smoke up my rear end!! What do ya think?
I'm just trying to plan ahead on this motor thing.That's why I've been on line so much to the salvage yards and such.It's good to have you folks,at the forum here,so I don't feel all alone with this situation. I just don't want to get blind sided if my engine does decide to go out.
I'm still looking at temps in the teens to mid forties right now. I have a trans(AOD) to repair in my truck as soon as the weather permits.To expensive to heat my,30x40 two floor, garage for a job I can postpone another week or so.
Sure would be nice to live in Tampa right now!