Where the heck is RABS Connector on 2000 F-150?
#1
Where the heck is RABS Connector on 2000 F-150?
I've searched and searched the site and there is really a lot of good info on how to check the RABS codes... problem is I can't for the life of me find the connector. Does anyone know where it is located and what it looks like.
OTOH... from what I read, it is probably best to just put a new RABS sensor and see if the problem goes away.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
Fug
OTOH... from what I read, it is probably best to just put a new RABS sensor and see if the problem goes away.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
Fug
#2
I belive you check the RABS through the DLC under the dash. But, if you really want to know where the RABS module is, it is underneath the top "skin" of the dash. It's not hard to get to, just quite a few screws to remove the dash around the inst. cluster and radio bezel.
Hope this helps,
DG808
Hope this helps,
DG808
#3
#4
Dave, ok I found two connectors there. One attaches to the firewall with two wires (one of them is orange with a black stripe) and the other connector has about 8 wires in it (one of them is orange with a black stripe). I tried the grounding trick on both of them but I can't get the ABS light to blink... I waited about 3 minutes for the light to flash but no blinks!
Something else that might be related is that the park break light on the dash doesn't always come on when the park break is pushed in. Could this be causing problems with the AMS sensor? Do you have any idea what ti check if I can't get the ABS codes to blink... I hust get a steady ABS light ???
Something else that might be related is that the park break light on the dash doesn't always come on when the park break is pushed in. Could this be causing problems with the AMS sensor? Do you have any idea what ti check if I can't get the ABS codes to blink... I hust get a steady ABS light ???
#5
Usually the park brake light problem is the switch on the pedal and shouldn't be related to your RABS light.
The wires you're looking for both go into 1 small connector that joins the 2 wires together. There are no other wires in the connector.
Be careful to connect only the black/orange stripe wire to ground. Connecting the red wire to ground will result in a blown fuse.
Turn the ignition to the RUN position (engine does not need to be running). Next, locate the black RABS diagnostic connector The diagnostic connector has two mating halves, one of which has a black/orange (BK/OG) wire connected to it. Disconnect the two halves.
Attach one end of a jumper wire to the black/orange (BK/OG) wire side of the diagnostic connector. Ground the opposite end of the jumper wire by connecting it to a ground until the ABS light begins to flash. Grounding this wire should start the yellow ABS warning indicator flashing.
The code consists of a number of short flashes and ends with a long flash. Count the short flashes and include the following long flash in the count to obtain the code number. For example, three short flashes followed by one long flash indicates diagnostic trouble code 4. The code will continue to repeat itself until the key is turned off. You should verify the code by reading it several times.
The wires you're looking for both go into 1 small connector that joins the 2 wires together. There are no other wires in the connector.
Be careful to connect only the black/orange stripe wire to ground. Connecting the red wire to ground will result in a blown fuse.
Turn the ignition to the RUN position (engine does not need to be running). Next, locate the black RABS diagnostic connector The diagnostic connector has two mating halves, one of which has a black/orange (BK/OG) wire connected to it. Disconnect the two halves.
Attach one end of a jumper wire to the black/orange (BK/OG) wire side of the diagnostic connector. Ground the opposite end of the jumper wire by connecting it to a ground until the ABS light begins to flash. Grounding this wire should start the yellow ABS warning indicator flashing.
The code consists of a number of short flashes and ends with a long flash. Count the short flashes and include the following long flash in the count to obtain the code number. For example, three short flashes followed by one long flash indicates diagnostic trouble code 4. The code will continue to repeat itself until the key is turned off. You should verify the code by reading it several times.
#6
Thanks Dave. I got that done last night. It flashes out a "9"... i.e., 8 short and one long. I checked the available documentation on this and it looks like the speed sensor. So, I will try my luck at removing, cleaning and reinstallng it tonight.
Thanks to you and DG. This site is great!
Fugg
Thanks to you and DG. This site is great!
Fugg
#7
Racerguy, I’m having similar problems with the ABS light but after checking for a code as you suggested the ABS light did not flash.The ABS light burns steady. Any suggestions? I have a 2000 F-150 2-wheel drive V-6 auto w/four wheel ABS. I have checked the brake lights and the fuses under the hood and dash all OK. thanks John
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#8
Welcome aboard John
The instructions above are only for Rear Antilock Brakes.
With 4 wheel ABS needs you need to have the system scanned with a scan tool.
I'm not sure that Autozone or someone like that can do that for you. You will probably have to take it to a "real" shop to get that done.
If you get it scanned please write down the code number and not just the description, and someone on here will have some ideas for you.
The instructions above are only for Rear Antilock Brakes.
With 4 wheel ABS needs you need to have the system scanned with a scan tool.
I'm not sure that Autozone or someone like that can do that for you. You will probably have to take it to a "real" shop to get that done.
If you get it scanned please write down the code number and not just the description, and someone on here will have some ideas for you.
#10
You can probably clear the light by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes. If the light comes on after that then you have a problem still.
Make sure the brake fluid level is full.
You can check the resistance of the sensors if you have an ohmmeter. The fronts should be 2000-4000 ohms, the rear one should be 800-3500 ohms.
If you remove the sensors you can check for metal buildup or severe rust on them. You can also look into the holes that the sensors mount into and check the teeth on the tone rings for missing or chipped teeth or cracks in the rings.
Make sure the brake fluid level is full.
You can check the resistance of the sensors if you have an ohmmeter. The fronts should be 2000-4000 ohms, the rear one should be 800-3500 ohms.
If you remove the sensors you can check for metal buildup or severe rust on them. You can also look into the holes that the sensors mount into and check the teeth on the tone rings for missing or chipped teeth or cracks in the rings.
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09-28-1999 11:17 PM
2000, brake, conector, connector, connectors, diagnostic, f150, fluid, level, orangeblack, pictures, rabs, sensor, test, wire