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I was just thinking of maybe a cheaper way to give my '94 F-150 a lift. I was looking at 6 inches and was wondering if anyone has ever tried to lift a truck by relocating the spring perches on the frame by making a bracket to weld or bolt underneath the frame. If the brackets were made strong enough, I think it would work I just want some other opinions on the matter. I want to lift enough to run 35's
Look at Pro's spring perches in his gallery. I think that's exactly what he did. Springs are pretty much stock. Double check your measurements but I don't think you'll need to lift a full 6" to fit 35's.
Also, do a search on the offroad forum for "shackle flip". You could probably acheive plenty of lift in the rear to fit 35's by doing this and it's less hassle than relocating your front perches.
I'm still debating on buying a set of springs for the front but the rear will definitely be a Homer. I know I'm flipping the shackle, will have to wait until tires are here to figure out if I need to move my front hanger down too.
Jason, is it your rear springs that are soft or the shacke flip?
Hold on guys....94 F150 is the key here, the problem with moving down the spring perches is that you still need to drop the pivot brackets in the middle of the axle. Leaf springs this will work but not with coils.
Hey Guys.....vote for me please...
thanks for the help guys. I think I have decided on the shackle flip for the rear. That still leaves me wondering about the front. What would be the cheapest way to lift the TTB. I know i need to drop the center and the radius arm brackets and add longer springs and shocks. i know i'll also need a new pitman arm and probably some camber bushings. am i leaving anything out?
1994 F-150 4x4 5.0 (Stock for Now)
^- MY real ride
1996 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L (sob)
^- interim ride until a poor college kid makes enough money to drive a truck 30 miles a day. Or until the truck magically gets 28 mpg.
here's what you should do man. Look I know you want the cheapest way to get those tires on and I feel the same way, but there's a point where you need to tell yourself - what do I really want in this build.
plowboy2155 - Do you want something that's kinda thrown together and may cause damage to other parts later? Or would you rather pay the money, do it right and take a step back and look at your truck.
Look man, I want a 6" lift too but it's expensive cause I live in canada.
Now you can get 4-6" lifts for under $500. Which includes everything except brake lines and you'll have the peace of mind in knowing that everything is covered and you didn't leave anything out.
If you do the math and add up everything you are going to need.... it works out to be just the same as buying the kit.
For my lift I have an add-a-leaf in the rear and for the front I plan on buying a leveling kit (well springs only). This will give me enough space for my 33's. I have a set of 35's (BFG), but I don't know how I'm gonna make those babies fit.
So I would reccomend doing the kit as far as the custom build. Um I believe Rough Country or Tuff Country (stupid names for companies) makes lifts for $499. Also check www.natltire.com for suspension specials they have our trucks on special.
Alright that's enough for me, hope everything goes well for you and if you do decide to do the custom job let us know how it went k? Good luck.
1994 F150 XL 4X4 351W
Check my Gallery for pics and mods.
NEW CAMMED 351W W/ 5 SPEED. LOVE IT.
There was a post about a week ago that is listed in there in which all different brands of lift for TTB are discussed, prices and all. Somewhere down the line there's a thread on what all needs to be done if you're going to built it yourself but for the work it would take you're better off buying a kit up front.
If you're pretty good at fab work and welding you can do a 4" lift for the cost of a set of 4" springs and some 3/16 plate steel. You actually mount the TTB arm in a jig, cut the pivot eye off of the arm, move it vertically 4" on the jig, and fill in the gaps with the 3/16 plate. It's also a stronger setup than using drop brackets since it won't add any more leverage against the frame.
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