I was cruising on 95 north the other night just after washing the truck for the first time in a while on account of the weather and everything was great. Next thing I know the truck sputters a little bit and I hear a terrible noise from under the hood. I pull over immediately to check things out. Good oil pressure, good temp and nothing dripping from under the truck. All looks good under the hood but the noise, sort of a metalic grinding noise is coming from under the air cleaner. I shut it down and had it towed it to the only place I know of( I'm new to this area and don't have a regular shop.) which is a ford dealer.
They called today to tell me that they found metal shavings in the oil and air filter and the crank won't turn.......they reccomend replacing the motor for their price of $8506.00 installed.
I stopped by after work to see for myself and spoke to the shop foreman who was tring to be as informative as posible. He said basically that I have three options. They can pull the glow plugs and injectors to see if the engine "hydraulically locked up" ? or they can tear the engine down to see what went wrong and how bad it is , or I can put a new motor in it for the above price. I did see for myself some small flecs of metal in the fold of the cut open filter.
I'm distraught.
I feel like my best friend is in intensive care, critical and without much hope.
I was poud to have recently turned 200k and figured I had a long way to go before I had to worry about this type of thing.
Hope someone has a good suggestion. I can't afford a new truck or an $8,000.00 repair.
Bill
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1994 F350 7.3
1946 Chevy 2 Ton COE
1953 Golden Jubilee
1963 2000 Industrial
Brandywine, Maryland had a huge truck salvage yard. I would give them a call to do this cheaply.
To do it best I would go with a reman complete drop in for the warranty.
I say this with a warning, please read carefully.
I just installed a Dealers Diesel turbo upgrade motor in my 86 for 6595 + 1200 core deposit for the motor and 800 for the install.
They also have a 7.3 NA for 3995 + 1200 core deposit.
My core was not damaged and I did get 100% core refund.
The motor blew at 2759 miles. (Cracked block and head gasket)
I just recieved a new motor today and they are paying for the remove and replace 100%.
So far the only thing I am out is I have been without a truck for 13 days so far, probably 2 more before I get it in.
Thanks Dave, for the information I will look into these options. I am going to get it towed to home today and figure out which way to go. I like the idea of a reman motor, I just need to find someone reliable who would be willing to do the install. Bill
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1994 F350 7.3
1946 Chevy 2 Ton COE
1953 Golden Jubilee
1963 2000 Industrial
So sorry for your trouble. I am not real good at this stuff but HOW did the metal shavings get into the air filter ? Is your truck turbo'd, I could understand how metal got into the intake. But without question, it sounds like a motor is needed. If you could provide more info about the damaged engine I would appreciate it. Perhaps they will let you look into the inside of it before you turn it over for core. I am wondering if a cooling jet took a dump and a cylinder locked up on you and that is aluminum in the oil filter.
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2000 super duty f-350 crew cab with training wheels, ats flip chip controller - hang on to it ! I did the air intake too - best thing since sliced bread.
Bilder, I just got the truck home tonight and I am going to do a little poking around. The truck is not a turbo. I will definately look for those shavings in the air cleaner that they said were evident.
I will keep you posted on what I find. Thanks for your input.Bill
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1994 F350 7.3
1946 Chevy 2 Ton COE
1953 Golden Jubilee
1963 2000 Industrial
I missed the air filter shavings when I read your original post.
Are the shavings in the inside of the air filter or on the outside?
They must be on the inside which indicates an intake valve is/are not closing and crap is blowing back out the intake. That is not a good sign.
I do not think I would call Dealers Diesel for a motor again, a little more info found it's way to me just a while ago about rebuilt lifters in their engines.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
Dave, I didn't mess with the truck last night but will take a look tonight. The shop foreman att he dealer told me they found shavings in the oil and air filter. I don't think they drained the pan though so I might do that tonight as well.
I did take a look at those sites and a couple others last night and got a little info. I also talked to a gut that owns a towing company that said he will call me with a few numbers of more local companies that they deal with for reman'd engines.
I know one thing I miss driving my truck already. My alternative transportation is a 99 beetle. Talk about feeling like a fish out of water. I hate driving in a small car so low to the ground. But, I am greatfull I have something else to drive.
Bill
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1994 F350 7.3
1946 Chevy 2 Ton COE
1953 Golden Jubilee
1963 2000 Industrial
Dave and Bilder, I didn't find any shavings in the air filter, I don't know what the guy was talking about there.
I wanted to see or hear for myself that the motor was locked up like the shop foreman said so when I got home yesterday I turned the key and got nothing. The batteries seem find, but the started doesn't even begin to turn. On Monday when I got to the dealer to check on the vehical I found the truck sitting behind the truck shop with the key on. If the truck was sitting there all day with the key in the on positon would this damage it??
I did find that that some sob stole my brand new mag light out of my truck.
Man,I hate dealerships.
I have been doing some price checking on reman'd engines and installation. I couple people have said that I shouldn't put 5 to 6 grand into a 10 year old, 200,000 mile truck that has the original trans in it. What are your opinions. I am a little on the fence and am not even sure if I could handle a payment on a new one.
What are your opinions?
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1994 F350 7.3
1946 Chevy 2 Ton COE
1953 Golden Jubilee
1963 2000 Industrial
Gee heavy, I wouldnt think leaving thekey on would hurt the engine but sure would play havoc with the batteries. I wonder if the dealership was working the starter too hard and got it to seize up ... they are sensitive ya know. As far as the metal in the filter ... I would want to see that. I was taught by POP, believe nothin of what ya hear and half of what ya see !
If it were me, I'd start going over things that I could handle. See if you can get the engine to turn over, even by hand if necessary --- check the coolant level in the radiator, the oil level on the stick and try to get a sample out of the crankcase and get it tested. You will have to take it from there cause I am too far away to see the report and see the engine. No idea where nuterfort is and dave's location. Good luck and keep us posted. OH, I dont know your financial position so i really cant help out there, but I picked up a great scooter off ebay and saved over 6k from local dealers.
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2000 super duty f-350 crew cab with training wheels, ats flip chip controller - hang on to it ! I did the air intake too - best thing since sliced bread.
The key on will not hurt any thing, all that does on a diesel is open the fuel shut-off solenoid and let any accessories come on that are turned on.
Batteries are probably to weak to do the crank thing though.
Should have at least heard clicking though.
Dealer may have smoked the starter, but you will still hear solenoids clicking.
Grinding metalic sounds from under the air cleaner can not be good no matter where they came from.
First guess would be a lifter was lunch and cam was desert.
But that is only a guess since I did not hear it or see it.
Turn the key off and get a 1/2" breaker bar and a socket 15/16" I think, with a 3" extension. Put it on the bolt in the crank pulley and see if you can move the motor any at all by hand in either direction. You should only have to put about 60 or 70 pounds of pull on it to move it some. It would be easier to do this from under the truck since it is so far down from the top and the fan is in the way.
As far as if it is worth it or not to fix it, go down to the dealer and see what you can take home and keep for 6000 dollars. If it is better than your truck, trade. If not, I would fix it if I liked it.
I just put 7500 in my 86 with 254000 on it cause I like it.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
Thanks guys for your input, I really appreciate it. I will try to turn the motor today, check the coolant and the oil. As far as the starter goes, I think you are right that the dealer must have smoked it trying to crank it over. I know it turned over fine the night I had it towed, before the dealer got hold of it. No solenoid click or anything.
I've got some decisions to make either way.
Dave I'm about 10 minutes west of 95 on route 32, near Clarksville.
Bill
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1994 F350 7.3
1946 Chevy 2 Ton COE
1953 Golden Jubilee
1963 2000 Industrial
Update, not good.
Put a wrench to the crank pulley bolt and it would not budge.
Checked the oil at the dip stick and it was way to high with fine metal shavings in it.
Decided to drain the oil. Pure green anti-freeze....filled 3/4's of a 5 gallon bucket and then turned to oil.
Went to the frig and got a beer.
Man I'm bumbed
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1994 F350 7.3
1946 Chevy 2 Ton COE
1953 Golden Jubilee
1963 2000 Industrial
I used to live in Severn Md. just down 170 from BWI. Wish it was not so long ago, I was trucking in those days, I used to know a bunch of shops over near Glen Burnie back in the mid 70's.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
blue ... looks like you did things in the right order, but, did you check the radiator? Make sure the dealer didnt pour crap into the crankcase to make it look bad ( some reason i just dont trust dealers ). I'm just trying to figure how the coolant got into the crank - Dave, would a head gasket do that? And the metal shavings would be the piston. check with a magnet to see if it is steel or aluminum. You might be able to still save it. Seems the beer always comes into play. Keep us posted.
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2000 super duty f-350 crew cab with training wheels, ats flip chip controller - hang on to it ! I did the air intake too - best thing since sliced bread.
A head gasket could do that, but the grinding sounds and head gasket do not go together in my book.
I am leaning more to failed componets.
Were the grinding sounds reciprocating sounds or circular sounds?
Circular grinding would make me think valve train componets.
Reciprocating would mean piston related.
But neither of those alone would drop coolant into the crankcase.
At this point you almost need to pull the engine and open it up to figure out what you have to work with.
I would almost bet something let loose and then cracked/broke something else.
What broke will affect the price of the next move considerably.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.