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Old 02-12-2004, 04:34 PM
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New Cam install

Ok guys, I have a 84 with the 351W and c6. I had the motor rebuilt about 10,000 miles ago, and it just doesn't really have the ***** that I had hoped for. I had the heads done,( 3 angle valve job, new valves, new springs) new federal mogule(spelling) pistions, don't rememeber the compression. And they just put in a 4x4 cam. Well I was just thinking that I might want to put in a new cam, plus I might end up putting some different heads on it. I don't take it off road too much, I would like to more but just don't have the time. I guess I just want to be able to get up and go better. So my question is, what cam would you recomend with stock heads, and if I changed the heads what heads and cam? also maybe the prices of these items, thanks

Woody
 
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Old 02-12-2004, 05:16 PM
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You can check with comp cams website and see what you like, they can range from 150 bucks to 300 bucks.
A set of aluminum heads will run you around 1,000 bucks.
I would say stay with your heads, cause you just had alot of work done too them, and you don't have take them off too change cams.
 
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Old 02-12-2004, 06:10 PM
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Edelbrock sells power packages, heads and cam, and they will tell ya exactly what kind of power they will give you. You might have low gearing in your truck. I don't know what kinda power you have now, but I would think that after all that work you should have alot!! I would make sure everything is tuned right. A cam made for H.P. and not torque will help. Are you still running stock intake and carb 2 barrel?

She Ain't Revved Ti'll The Rods Are Thrown!

Al
 
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Old 02-12-2004, 07:11 PM
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Well, for a bronco, I would want a cam made for more torque and not so much HP.
 
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Old 02-12-2004, 08:23 PM
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No I have a 650 holley with vacum secondaries. and a torker 2 intake, I have the stock 355 gears. I just had the tranny rebuilt and had a shift kit put in, which helped some, but I guess you can't turn a bronco into a mustang, well you can but who has that kind of money?

Woody
 
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Old 02-12-2004, 11:35 PM
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well for starters you should make shure your getting all the power thats there from what you have, like tweaking the ignition system, making shure your pulling the right amount of advance. and if your wanting pulling power and tork, you need to loose that torker 2 intake and go with a edlebrock performer RPM (dual plane) not single plane intake, and scrap the 650 cfm for 750 cfm, changing the intake and carb along with tuning your ignition system would probly get you another 40-50HP over the set up you have now. DW
 
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Old 02-13-2004, 12:13 AM
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I beleive that 650 is perfect for a smallblock v8
 
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Old 02-13-2004, 05:19 AM
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Well im not gona get into a argument here but it has to do with flow caracteristics and cubic inches not whether or not its a small block, you go look up every article you can find in a magazine on 351W build ups and dyno pulls and they all run at least a 750cfm infact a good many run a 780 cfm. but hey who are all those experts to decide. DW
 
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Old 02-13-2004, 07:35 AM
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DW and BRK both make good points about the carb and I don't think either will effect you that much. Your main problem is the intake/cam/head combo. Unless you had some serious porting done to your stock heads, they probably make their best power from 1000-4000 rpm. A mild 4x4 cam is probably in the same range of power, at 1000 to 4000, but what is killing you is the single plane, short runer Torker II intake. That is a racing intake and will run like crap below 3000 rpm. The intake's power band is probably in the 3000 to 6500 rpm range. Here's what I would do:
1. Install an Edelbrock Performer intake(not the RPM one, it is again designed for a higher power band).
2. Spend some serious time tweaking your set-up. Try different timing settings, and when done, try adjusting the carb jets. Car Craft did a 302 build-up and when they first got the engine running it only made 163 hp, but when they got done tweaking, it made over 300-all from carb and timing adjustments.
3. If still seeking more power, now would be the time to think about a different cam, and/or cam and head combo.
The best power for any given build-up is to pick parts that will work together. Sorry for the long post, just had alot to say.
Rick
 
  #10  
Old 02-13-2004, 01:22 PM
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acording to edlebrock the power curve on the RPM air gap manifold is 1500-6500 rpm and all the dyno reports i've seen confirm it makes awesome mid range power, and its rated as one of the best street intakes on the market right now, as far as carbs go a 650cfm is fine on a stock motor but if you do any port work on 350 + cubic inches put in a bigger than stock cam, then when you go over about 3000 rpm the more throtle you give the more its gona starve, you can increase the jets for more gas but then you run into a (rich) condition because you still cant give it enough air to go with the gas, so your shooting your self in the foot. i would recomend a 700cfm minimum on anything bigger than 310 cubic inches if you looking to make any good power . DW
 
  #11  
Old 02-13-2004, 01:42 PM
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thanks guys, so it sounds like I need a different intake, the edelbrock performer, and after that maybe a 750cfm carb. I will look into this and let you guys know how it goes. I hope it does the trick, should I be worrying about a hipo coil and msd box and all that junk?

Thanks
Woody
 

Last edited by 84bronc; 02-13-2004 at 01:44 PM.
  #12  
Old 02-13-2004, 03:30 PM
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a high energy coil wont hurt, and a MSD box, well they work and are worth the money but most importantly is make shure your timing is all inline, you should be able to run 10 - 14 degr. adv. on your base timing, and you should run about 32 -34 degr. total advance, and the total advance should all come in between 2200 - 2600 rpm for a street motor. Good luck DW
 
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