ok here is my problem. On a 99 Ranger with the 3.0 it was running a little rough but did not get any code. All of a sudden the other day the oil pressure dropped to nothing so we towed it home. Pulled the code and found a P0340 or cam sensor code. Pulled the sensor and synchronizer and found that the teeth on the gear were gone on one section and worn to a paper thin edge on the rest of the gear. Well figured out that that would sure cause the oil pump to quit if the gear wasn't turning and would also through the code for the sensor. Now what would make the gear wear like this and is it possible the cam gear is still OK or am I looking at a replacement there also? Has anyone run into this before.
Thanks
ok here is my problem. On a 99 Ranger with the 3.0 it was running a little rough but did not get any code. All of a sudden the other day the oil pressure dropped to nothing so we towed it home. Pulled the code and found a P0340 or cam sensor code. Pulled the sensor and synchronizer and found that the teeth on the gear were gone on one section and worn to a paper thin edge on the rest of the gear. Well figured out that that would sure cause the oil pump to quit if the gear wasn't turning and would also through the code for the sensor. Now what would make the gear wear like this and is it possible the cam gear is still OK or am I looking at a replacement there also? Has anyone run into this before.
Thanks
A worn synchro gear like that is not all that uncommon on the 3.0L vulcan engine, as this thread illustrates. It was also somewhat of a problem for Ford back when the 3.0L had a distributor, the gear on the distributor shaft would sometimes wear down in the same manner.
It sounds like you may have shut things down in time to save the motor.
The dealer fix is to replace both the synchro shaft and camshaft as a set. On the other hand, I've heard of people just dropping in a new synchro shaft and being on their way.
You should also change the oil and filter in any event, and if you get motivated you can drop the oil pan and clean out any metal shavings that have found there way down there.
thanks for the reply. Yes the truck was shut down immediately so I would think there should be no damage. I have already changed the oil and filter and am going to again after a about a hundred miles. We are going to try and just drop another synchronizer in and see what happens. Since the gear was worn to where it would not turn it looks like I will have no reference to align the new one up.
I have a 2004 Ranger 3.0L. The gas milage has been going down for quite some time now. For the past several months it has idled rough. The engine light came on and according to Autozone, the #4 sparkplug was fouling out. We changed them all out. Ran okay for a while. Then it ran rough again and the light came on. This time it said 2 were fouling out so we changed the wires and all plugs again. Now its been running rough ever since. While complaining about how rough the engine was idling, the light came on. This time, Autozone said the codes read the Crankshaft positioning sensor was bad and the #4 and #6 plugs were not firing correctly. So we change out the CPS. My truck would not start. Tried diconnecting the battery to reset the computer. Still would not crank. We put the old one back on and it started right up. So we are taking back the new one and exchanging for another. Is there anything we need to do besides swaping out the sensors? From what we could tell, there was no way to adjust the sensor.
i need to know the procedure for installing the cam pos. sensor in my explorer, i do not have any idea how the old 1 was positioned... i have read most of the post in here..
i need to know the procedure for installing the cam pos. sensor in my explorer, i do not have any idea how the old 1 was positioned... i have read most of the post in here..
take a look at this thread and post number 33. I did this with my 3.0 and it worked fine.
My Taurus is not making the squeaking noise all the time.It comes and goes,sometimes I can make a 20-30 mile round trip and it is quiet.I'm going to take a look at the sensor and hope I see something so I don't worry about having to fool with the shaft.
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95 Lightning
93 Lightning
twice as fun
Does CMP sensor shaft remove simply by pulling? My synch assy housing is broken also, but I don't want to mess up the shaft, which seems to be holding the housing in(I already removed the clamp bolt).
The housing and shaft come out together.It's kinda like half of a dist.I took mine out yesterday and the shaft turned a bit hard.It didn't feel rough so I kept turning it and dropping liquid wrench in the little oil hole at the bottom until it turned free and then started the same thing with oil.It was turning smooth and free so I put it back in and so far so good.I was going to go ahead and replace it but my local parts store couldn't get one for a couple of days and I needed the car.If it starts making noise again,I'll order one and replace it.Autozone said 61 bucks,Ford said 123 bucks.Don't be intimidated,if you have ever stabbed a distributor you can remove and replace the sync. assy.I made sure not to turn the engine and did end up having to turn the oil pump shaft a little to get the assy to set all the way down.I put back in the same position it came out and all is well.O yea,the Autozone part included the sensor,at least that's what Joe Bob told me over the phone.
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95 Lightning
93 Lightning
twice as fun
i had to put one in my ranger here a few years back. what a pain in the wallet that was! and i have 4.0L v6. before you even get started buy plenum gaskets you'll need them. because that sensor is behind all of that. and the sync tool is about $30 bucks.
i know i bought one.
Yes, the Haynes manual is about 20 bucks and it has been a life saver for me, the crankshaft and camshaft positioning sensors both went out on my 98 3.0L and it was very detailed in troubleshooting and repairing.
mine failed at about 125k the check engine light came on, but it ran fine.
i didn't think about it until i plugged a scanner in and got the code.
i did notice there are two different parts, one has a glass top and the other has removable sensor part of the sync.
