I just replaced the CPS and its synchronizing shaft on my 1999 3.0L V6 Ranger. To do the job properly, the crank is supposed to be set 10 degress past top dead center of cylinder #1. There are no degree markers on the crank pulley or the harmonic balancer, so I had to eye-ball what I thought was TDC; does anyone know how to make the exact setting of 10 degrees past TDC??

 

Does this look like the proper alignment of the camshaft synchronizer? Is this how it should look installed at the proper 75 Degrees from the centerline of the engine? Because I am still getting the check engine light after the install.......and yes I even set the engine to 0 degrees at TDC, also took the ground off the battery. So I replaced the synchronizer shaft and the sensor and still is throwing the check engine light up. Help.........

 

Anyone????????????????????????????????

 

Where is the front of the engine in this picture? If the front is at the bottom of the picture, it looks like you've got the cap on 180 degrees out from where it should be. If the front of the engine is at the top that looks correct. Play with the positioning of the main base. Turn it 1/8 inch clockwise or counter clockwise, reset the check engine light. If the engine runs rough turn it the other way. If this doesn't work you may need to recheck the positioning of the shaft with the position of the crank. It's been a while since I've done mine but as I remember I:
A) Pulled #1 spark plug
B) Turned crank clockwise til #1 cylinder was on compression stroke
C) Stopped crank where TDC aligned with timing marker
D) Rotated crank counterclockwise 1 inch
At this point the "C" on the Shaft should be in the SW quadrant (Bottom
Left) where the right tip of the "C" will be under the sensor on the cap. If
not...Pull the shaft and put it in again with this alignment.

Hope this helps. Good Luck!
Joe

 

The bottom of the picture is the front. The ajustment is different for a 5.0L.
My engine is a 3.0L.
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor — 3.0L, 4.0L, 5.0L

<META content="Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor — 3.0L, 4.0L, 5.0L" name=tps_proctitle><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 border=1><CAPTION>SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED </CAPTION><TBODY><TR><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Description</TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Tool Number</TH></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>Syncro Positioning Tool — 3.0L, 4.0L</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left>T95T-12200-A</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>Syncro Positioning Tool — 5.0L</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left>T96T-12200-A</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

CAUTION: Syncro Positioning Tool T95T-12200-A (3.0L, 4.0L) or T96T-12200-A (5.0L) must be obtained prior to installation of the replacement synchronizer assembly. Failure to follow this procedure will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine (6007), possibly causing engine damage.

CAUTION: Prior to the removal of the camshaft position sensor (CMP sensor) (12A112), set No. 1 cylinder to 0 degrees top dead center (TDC) of compression stroke. Then note the position of the camshaft position sensor electrical connector. The installation procedure requires that the electrical connector be located in the same position.


Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).
   

1. Disconnect fuel charging wiring electrical connector from camshaft position sensor.
   

1. Remove the CMP sensor screws and camshaft position sensor from camshaft synchronizer.
   

CAUTION: Do not move crankshaft (6303) until entire installation procedure is complete. Doing so will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine resulting in possible emissions fault.



NOTE: If camshaft synchronizer is to be removed from the cylinder block (6010), proceed with Step 4. If the camshaft synchronizer is not being removed, proceed to installation Step 8.

1. Remove hold-down clamp (12270).
   

1. Remove camshaft synchronizer from cylinder block.
   

Installation

1. Attach Syncro Positioning Tool T95T-12200-A (3.0L, 4.0L) or T96T-12200-A (5.0L).
   
   
   
   Camshaft Synchronizer — 3.0L, 4.0L
   
   
   
   
   
   
   Camshaft Synchronizer — 5.0L
   
   
   

1. Align the synchronizer vane with the radial slot of the Syncro Positioning Tool T95T-12200-A (3.0L) or T96T-12200A (5.0L).
   

1. Rotate the tool on the synchronizer base until the tool's boss engages the base notch.
   

1. Dip gear end into ESE-M2C123-A oil or equivalent to coat gear, thrust washer and lower bearing.
   

Syncro Positioning Tool — 3.0L, 4.0L

1. CAUTION: Do not rotate crankshaft when syncro positioning tool is on the camshaft synchronizer. Armature tab will be damaged and synchronizer timing may be shifted.
   
   On 3.0L engines, install camshaft synchronizer so that drive gear engagement occurs when arrow on Syncro Positioning Tool T95T-12200-A is pointed approximately 75 degrees (3.0L), 60 degrees (4.0L) counterclockwise off the centerline of the engine. This step will locate camshaft position sensor electrical connector to the original position.
   
   
   
   Syncro Positioning Tool — 5.0L
   
   
   
   
   On 5.0L engines, install camshaft synchronizer into cylinder block making sure that arrow on Syncro Positioning Tool T96T-12200-A is pointing forward parallel to center line of crankshaft. This step will locate camshaft position sensor electrical connector to the pre-removal position.
   

1. CAUTION: If camshaft position sensor electrical connector is not positioned properly, DO NOT reposition the connector by rotating the synchronizer assembly. This will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine, possibly causing engine damage. Remove the synchronizer assembly and repeat Step 5.
   
   Install hold-down clamp and tighten to 19-30 Nm (14-22 lb-ft) on 3.0L, 4.0L and 23-34 Nm (17-25 lb-ft) on 5.0L.
   

1. Remove Syncro Positioning Tool.
   

1. Install CMP sensor and CMP sensor screws. Tighten to 2.5-3.5 Nm (23-30 lb-in).
   

1. Connect fuel charging wiring electrical connector to camshaft position sensor (CMP sensor).
   

1. 
   
   NOTE: When battery voltage is removed from the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650), all learned values will be cleared and reset to predetermined values. When battery voltage is restored to the PCM, the vehicle may exhibit certain driveability concerns. It will be necessary to drive the vehicle to allow the PCM to relearn values for optimum driveability and performance.
   
   
   
   Connect battery ground cable.
   
   
   
   Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor — 3.0L Shown, 4.0L, 5.0L Similar
   
   
   
   
   
   <TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 width="70%" border=1><TBODY><TR><TH vAlign=bottom>Item</TH><TH vAlign=bottom>Part Number</TH><TH vAlign=bottom>Description</TH><TR vAlign=top><TD>1 </TD><TD>12A112 </TD><TD>Camshaft Position Sensor </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>2 </TD><TD>12A362 </TD><TD>Camshaft Synchronizer </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>3 </TD><TD>12270 </TD><TD>Hold-Down Clamp </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>4 </TD><TD>6010 </TD><TD>Cylinder Block </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>5 </TD><TD>N602704-S </TD><TD>CMP Sensor Screws (2 Req'd) </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>6 </TD><TD>T95T-12200-A </TD><TD>Syncro Positioning Tool (3.0L) (4.0L) </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>6 </TD><TD>T96T-12200-A </TD><TD>Syncro Positioning Tool (5.0L) </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>A </TD><TD>— </TD><TD>Bottom of Flange </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>B </TD><TD>— </TD><TD>22mm (.88 In.) Maximum </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>C </TD><TD>— </TD><TD>Pre-Lube Synchronizer Gear with ESE-M2C123-A Oil </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>D </TD><TD>— </TD><TD>Tighten to 19-30 Nm (14-22 Lb-Ft)
   (3.0L and 4.0L) Tighten to 23-33 Nm
   (17-25 Lb-Ft) (5.0L) </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>E </TD><TD>— </TD><TD>Tighten to 2.5-3.5 Nm (23-30 Lb-In) </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

<HR>

 

So no one knows if that looks like the correct postion of the cam shaft syncronizer? Is the postion in the picture correct?

 

I have an allignment tool for sale now:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=019&sspagename=STRK%3AME SE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=290080180147&rd=1,1

 

Yesterday I replaced the cam syncronozer assembly on a 95 Ranger 3.0 liter V-6, which took two hours all told, which included a half hour to and from the dealer who had the part in stock, and a half hour spent trying to repair the old one.
Judging from the picture, you may have troubles that are not apparent. When I took mine out, the magnet was down in the bottom, and the plastic that held it was sheared off, and the cup was bent all to H##L. Evidently the magnet got caught beteen the cup lip and case.
Anyway, after trying to striaghten the cup, I noticed that the shaft was loose in the bearing, much like the distributor bearings would wear out in the old days. Thats when I bought a new one. But, in the interest of scientific investigation, I drove the roll pin out of the drive gear, put the gear and shaft in the press, and took the gear off.
Notice that little round hole in ther side of the housing, the one with the small cup plug in it? Remember the Getz oilers that used to be on the shaft of the distributors? Well, if there was one in that hole, all of us would probably be talking about other things. The shaft rides in a bushing pressed into the top of the housing, and there is no provision for oiling that I can see, so the bearing get dry, and wears. The rust colored schmutz on the inside of the housing looks like the byproduct of dry bearings. Grab the cup and try to move it side to side, and see if there is any play in the bearing. Do it in more than one direction, i.e. 1 q'clock to seven o'clock, 3 to 9, 11 to 5, etc. If you cannot see or feel any side to side play, you may have saved yourself a hundred or so.
With the housing upright on the bench, fill the cavity with solvent, and turn the cup and shaft. Down on the side of the housing, below the o-ring, is a hole which is a drain hole for the cavity under the top bearing. Watch the color of the solvent as it comes out. Flush it till it comes out clean. You are trying to flush the bearing of all the fine grindings that have built up over the miles.
Check the bearing clearance again. If there is still no play, put a teaspoon of oil in the cavity, and turn the shaft till the oil works in to the bearing, or let it sit overnight. Drain out the excess and install as per the fine instructions found in this thread. If you do your own lube jobs, I would advise that every 25,000 miles, you pop the cap and add a few drops into the bottom of the cavity, under the cup and shaft. The inside is sealed from contamination, and the oil would lubricat the top of the bushing. 'Course this one lasted 88,000 miles, so maybe it's not worth the trouble. CZ

 

Interesting and informative post, thanks CaptonZap.

P.S. Welcome to FTE.

 

Thanks for the welcome, I only wish I had found this site years ago.
Having read the previous posts, I noticed that some call for 26 degrees ATC for timing and another called for 10 deg. Is there a definitive source, i.e. Ford literature, or other places that would have the real number?
I don't know if the car engine is tuned differently than the truck, and 16 deg. difference is a lot, in my book.
Thanks for providing this forum. CZ

 

The info that I posted above was dirrectly from Fords dealer site. www.fmcdealer.com

By Ford It should be 0 degrees at TDC

For some reason my Chiltons Manual said it should be 10 degrees after TDC which isn't right per Ford.

I went with what Ford said and my truck runs fine.

 

If you set the camshaft @ 0 degree TDC. Then turn the camsaft CW or CCW 10 degrees. Is that right setting????
But on the manual said that if that is distributorless electronic ignition, manufacturer does not recommend checking ignition timing. That mean after you set the camshaft @ 0 degree TDC, it can not turn cw or ccw. So where is 10 degree setting????
camshaft timing is different of ignation timing. More I read more I confuse????
Please explain?? Thanks!!

 

Let's just take a look at a 4 stroke engine.

The 4 strokes are (1) INTAKE, (2) COMPRESSION, (3) POWER (4) EXHAUST.

Your timing is based off of the # 1 piston so it is very important that you know where it is and you use it to find Top Dead Center (TDC).
1) INTAKE- Piston is coming down, intake valve is open, fuel enters cylinder.
2) COMPRESSION- Piston going up compressing the fuel, both valves (Intake and Exhaust) closed.
3) POWER- Certain degrees before top dead center (BTDC). Spark plug ignites fuel, piston is blown down.
4) EXHAUST- Piston is coming up, exhaust valve is open and exhaust is pushed out.

With this in mind,
1. Take the #1 spark plug out.
2. Cover the spark plug hole with your finger or something to seal the hole.
3. Have someone turn the crank clockwise, when there is compression trying to blow your finger off, you know you are now on the compression stroke, and not on the exhaust stroke.
4. Stick a screwdriver in the sparkplug hole that will reach the piston top.
5. Turn the crank clockwise slowly, watching the screwdriver move up (or out). When the screwdriver stops moving, (up or out) YOU ARE AT TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC)
6. Now you need to turn the crank backwards (COUNTERCLOCKWISE) whatever degrees that you need the timing set at.

Your camshaft position sensor should be at a point to where the spark is made, if not then the one (1) bolt in the distributor shaft needs to be pulled up til lower gear disengages with camshaft, turn the center shaft to where the "C" is about 1/4" prior to spark position then lower the distributor back into place. You will notice that the center shaft turns as you lower it back into place. If you use the tool it will have the "C" in the correct position.


Hope this helps,

Joe

 

I am having trouble with 1995 Ranger 4.0L also.

I had an intermittent P0340 code that is now a hard fault. Some of the posts here mention that the sensor is sometimes replaceable as long as it's aligned correctly.
This seems to be for the CPS with a "horizontal" plug.

My V6 has the CPS with the "L" shaped plug where the connector is vertical. Is it possible to replace the sensor only on this unit or do I need the whole assembly?

Like this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-EXPLORER-Camshaft-Position-Sensor-AIRTEX-5S1290_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33614QQitemZ2000 79293548QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

And is there an alignment tool for this, I haven't removed it yet but I am planning on doing it in the next few weeks. it's kind of tight back there so i would like to do it right the first time.

 

Welcome.

I can't say for sure without looking at yours, but if the CID sensor assembly on your Ranger's 4.0L looks exactly like the one in the picture, then you will need the whole assembly.

Moreover, although rather skimpy on details, there is nothing in the '95 Ford Manual that indicates that you can remove the cam position (CID) sensor seperately. Nor can I can I find anything about needing an alignment tool, although I did see this:

"NOTE: Ranger and Explorer vehicles have a CID sensor mounted on top of the oil pump drive assembly. Sensor Adjusting Wrench T94T-12270-A is designed for easy access to the hold-down clamp screw."

HTH. Good luck,