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  #61  
Old 11-29-2005, 05:07 PM
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Batgeek Batgeek is offline
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What causes a synchronizer to fail?
The magnet falling off of the camshaft position sensor is the most common reason for them to fail. The sensor fails because of age. The best thing to do is soon as the check engine light comes on is to have the codes pulled, if it comes up camshaft position sensor pull that sucker off as fast as you can.Most Rangers 96 and up will run without the sensor, the computer takes over the firing order of the fuel injectors. You can run it like this for a while without any damage. You may notice MPG going down and the check engine light will never go off, but other than that it should be fine.
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  #62  
Old 06-30-2006, 11:48 PM
spquint spquint is offline
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does the special tool hold the sycro shaft in cylinder #1 tdc?
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  #63  
Old 07-16-2006, 05:04 PM
spquint spquint is offline
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Hello I have a 98 4.0L 4x4.I had been hearing some noise that sounded like some belt or tensioner noise.After inspecting the engine some more i found that the noise was comeing from the cam position sensor.I ordered a new sensor and syncro shaft.I removed the upper intake and found that the sensor had a hole in it and the trigger vane was gone from the shaft.When i went to mark the syncro shaft i found that the shaft had moved and the sensor connector was stuck against the bank#2 head.So my problem is this i have no idea where the shaft is ment to be in and I can not find any timing marks on the balancer for TDC.The chilton book that i have states that it need to be at 10 degres ATDC.Do you guys please help me thanks.
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  #64  
Old 07-16-2006, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spquint
Hello I have a 98 4.0L 4x4.I had been hearing some noise that sounded like some belt or tensioner noise.After inspecting the engine some more i found that the noise was comeing from the cam position sensor.I ordered a new sensor and syncro shaft.I removed the upper intake and found that the sensor had a hole in it and the trigger vane was gone from the shaft.When i went to mark the syncro shaft i found that the shaft had moved and the sensor connector was stuck against the bank#2 head.So my problem is this i have no idea where the shaft is ment to be in and I can not find any timing marks on the balancer for TDC.The chilton book that i have states that it need to be at 10 degres ATDC .Do you guys please help me thanks.
There should be marks on the crank pulley, on the inside "rim". Did you clean it off real good? I believe the marks are even indented into the pulley a little bit, so you might be able to feel them with your fingers.
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Last edited by Rockledge; 07-16-2006 at 06:57 PM.
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  #65  
Old 09-03-2006, 02:49 PM
basictrans basictrans is offline
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My '99 Ranger 3.0 Flex Fuel motor has a different CMP sensor, the magnet is mounted to the side wall of the plastic housing, looks like a sturdier design than what you guys have on your trucks...I couldn't find the "right" part at the parts stores, so I pulled mine to check it and it is, as mentioned, different. Just a FYI for the Flex Fuel trucks, perhaps they are all this way. I had wanted to change my sensor as a preventative step but have decided i do not need to. Can email pics if anyone is interested in seeing the differences...(the vane on the syncro shaft is smaller as well...).
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  #66  
Old 09-25-2006, 12:43 PM
RangerRanger2 RangerRanger2 is offline
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Cool I needs some more info on this topic

My wife's 95 ranger 4x4 had the cam shaft position sensor code come up and I replaced the sensor. After getting it reset, on the start up the light came on again with the same code. When I replaced the sensor I noticed no damage on the vain of the cam shaft synchronizer. So should I be looking for a short in the wiring of the sensor or could something else go wrong with this system?
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  #67  
Old 09-25-2006, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by RangerRanger2
My wife's 95 ranger 4x4 had the cam shaft position sensor code come up and I replaced the sensor. After getting it reset, on the start up the light came on again with the same code. When I replaced the sensor I noticed no damage on the vain of the cam shaft synchronizer. So should I be looking for a short in the wiring of the sensor or could something else go wrong with this system?
Welcome to FTE!

Did you disconnect the battery for 10 minutes to erase the code?
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  #68  
Old 09-26-2006, 07:28 AM
RangerRanger2 RangerRanger2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockledge
Welcome to FTE!

Did you disconnect the battery for 10 minutes to erase the code?
Yup I did that and it went off for a second and came right back on. I even had the thing reset at Autozone. So I'm not sure what to do. Could something else cause the problem? Like I said the vain on the synchronizer was fine. Please help.
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  #69  
Old 09-26-2006, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerRanger2
My wife's 95 ranger 4x4 had the cam shaft position sensor code come up and I replaced the sensor. After getting it reset, on the start up the light came on again with the same code. When I replaced the sensor I noticed no damage on the vain of the cam shaft synchronizer. So should I be looking for a short in the wiring of the sensor or could something else go wrong with this system?
I forgot to mention it is a 3.0 V6
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  #70  
Old 10-09-2006, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerRanger2
I forgot to mention it is a 3.0 V6
Anyone?????
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  #71  
Old 10-09-2006, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerRanger2
My wife's 95 ranger 4x4 had the cam shaft position sensor code come up and I replaced the sensor. After getting it reset, on the start up the light came on again with the same code. When I replaced the sensor I noticed no damage on the vain of the cam shaft synchronizer. So should I be looking for a short in the wiring of the sensor or could something else go wrong with this system?
Here's a short list:

1. The new CMP sensor wasn't aligned correctly. Did you mark it or use the special positioning tool?

2. The CMP synchro shaft is failing. Sometimes the teeth on the synchro get worn or even break off.

3. The harness connector or circuit/wiring are faulty (short, open, etc.).
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  #72  
Old 10-09-2006, 11:14 AM
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockledge
Here's a short list:

1. The new CMP sensor wasn't aligned correctly. Did you mark it or use the special positioning tool?

2. The CMP synchro shaft is failing. Sometimes the teeth on the synchro get worn or even break off.

3. The harness connector or circuit/wiring are faulty (short, open, etc.).
I didn't realize there was an alignment tool for the CMP sensor. I really don't see were there could be any kind of ajustment. It just had two bolts on both sides of sensor that held it on the engine.
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  #73  
Old 10-09-2006, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerRanger2
I didn't realize there was an alignment tool for the CMP sensor. I really don't see were there could be any kind of ajustment. It just had two bolts on both sides of sensor that held it on the engine.
Sorry, I was thinking in terms of the whole assembly being replaced, but of course it was just the sensor in your case.

In any event, I would still list numbers 2 and 3 as possibilities.
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  #74  
Old 11-12-2006, 10:38 AM
zippysidekick zippysidekick is offline
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I also have to replace the cam sensor and synchronizer - but - the tab on the synchronizer is completely broken off, so how do I match up the new synchronizer?? If I get the tool, how do I tell which cylinder is #1 and how do I determine when it it art TDC?? Thank you, Steve













Quote:
Originally Posted by hreed
There is one bolt holding the shaft in place. It is difficult to see, and you may want to remove some of the wires in that area. I used a 1/4" drive ratchet with a long extension and a u-joint to get it out. I think it is a 10 mm head. If you get #1 cylinder on top dead center, remove that bolt, the shaft will pull out easily. Look at the position of the open slot on the new shaft, and if you don't have the alignment tool, make sure the shaft is down in place just like it looks where the red arrow is pointing on the picture you posted. You need to start the shaft about 75 degrees ccw because of the gear bevel. When the shaft is in place, it should be turned about 45 degrees left of the engine centerline, and the interrupter should look like the picture above. Or you can get the tool at most parts stores. Hope I didn't confuse you too much. Keep us posted. It's really not too difficult. I had mine changed and working in about 25 minutes and 2 beers.
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  #75  
Old 12-04-2006, 10:30 AM
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new help guys with the syncronizers !!!!!!

dorman products has just released the camshaft syncronizer assy for the 3.0's and 4.0's......it is a complete assy with the sensor and the tool to install it. I work in the automotive parts bussiness and happen to see the post on this problem and hopefully help somebody out by letting them know the parts are out there.
94-97 ranger 3.0 use part # 689-108
98-06 taurus 3.0 12v use part # 689-107
96-99 ranger, explorer 4.0 use part # 689-106 w/ 132mm shaft
96-97 ranger explorer 4.0 use part # 689-105 w/ 123mm shaft
96-98 taurus 3.0 12v use part # 689-104
or if need be go to dorman.com and use the online catalog to find your application...good luck guys ....jc
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Old 12-04-2006, 10:30 AM
 
 
 
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