Camshaft Sensor/Synchronizer Replacement
#31
05-25-2004, 01:14 AM
Originally Posted by Ranger3L
menardrs:
...................... I couldn't find the "special tool" so I just replaced the syncronizer in the exact position I found it. Works great.
...................... I couldn't find the "special tool" so I just replaced the syncronizer in the exact position I found it. Works great.
Another alternative I found its http://thetoolnetwork.com/cam_syncronizer_set_ford.html appeared made by 3rd party.
#32
06-22-2004, 01:37 PM
Needing help finding special tool
Can someone please tell me where I can find the special tool for positioning the cmp, 303-529. I live in Kansas City and apparently no one has ever needed this tool before in my area. I've tried Avanced, Oriely's, Napa, every Ford dealer in town. I can find it on the net but i'm needing quicker than they can get it to me.
#33
07-18-2004, 09:31 PM
How to Line Up Synchronizer Without Special Tool
I ran across this "how to" regarding how to line up Ford cam synchronizers without using the special tool:
Today, it seems you can't compete even the most routine job - such as replacing a timing belt - without these new tools. One question our hotline callers often ask is how to align a camshaft position sensor synchronizer without Ford's special tool.
Here I am using a 1995-1998 3.8L Ford Windstar as an example. Usually the problem starts after engine work has been done. Maybe the timing cover has been removed or the engine was replaced. Either situation requires the synchronizer to be installed and timed to the engine. The service manual states that a "special tool" is required to index the vane inside the synchronizer to the housing. As you read through the procedure, you may be thinking, "I don't have that tool - now what?"
Good news! You can line up the synchronizer without a special tool and without a lot of extra time. Here's how:
1) Bring the engine up to top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke for cylinder No. 1.
2) The engine needs to be positioned at 26 degrees after TDC. There will often be a large groove machined into the balancer at this point. If not, mark the balancer by measuring from TDC to 26 degrees before TDC. Take that measurement and make your own mark at 26 degrees after TDC.
3) Drop in the synchronizer so that the leading edge of the vane is close to the center of the opening in the housing (this is directly below the actual sensing part of the cam sensor).
4) Leaving the synchronizer loose, install the cam sensor and connect a voltmeter from the ground to the dark blue/orange wire with the sensor plugged in.
5) With the key on, the voltmeter should read either "0 volts" or "battery voltage."
6) Turn the synchronizer back and forth to find the point where the voltage is just switching from "0 volts" to "battery voltage."
7) Once you find that point, tighten down the hold-down bolt.
This same procedure can be used on most OBD-II Ford products with Hall-effect type cam sensors. Source
Here I am using a 1995-1998 3.8L Ford Windstar as an example. Usually the problem starts after engine work has been done. Maybe the timing cover has been removed or the engine was replaced. Either situation requires the synchronizer to be installed and timed to the engine. The service manual states that a "special tool" is required to index the vane inside the synchronizer to the housing. As you read through the procedure, you may be thinking, "I don't have that tool - now what?"
Good news! You can line up the synchronizer without a special tool and without a lot of extra time. Here's how:
1) Bring the engine up to top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke for cylinder No. 1.
2) The engine needs to be positioned at 26 degrees after TDC. There will often be a large groove machined into the balancer at this point. If not, mark the balancer by measuring from TDC to 26 degrees before TDC. Take that measurement and make your own mark at 26 degrees after TDC.
3) Drop in the synchronizer so that the leading edge of the vane is close to the center of the opening in the housing (this is directly below the actual sensing part of the cam sensor).
4) Leaving the synchronizer loose, install the cam sensor and connect a voltmeter from the ground to the dark blue/orange wire with the sensor plugged in.
5) With the key on, the voltmeter should read either "0 volts" or "battery voltage."
6) Turn the synchronizer back and forth to find the point where the voltage is just switching from "0 volts" to "battery voltage."
7) Once you find that point, tighten down the hold-down bolt.
This same procedure can be used on most OBD-II Ford products with Hall-effect type cam sensors. Source
#34
08-09-2004, 05:04 PM
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Rockledge,
Thank you for your posts on this CMP/synchronizer problem. I was able to fix this problem and get that engine code off my '95 Ranger (after driving 100 miles) because of this thread and your responses. It makes me proud to own a Ford p/u!
PS. I couldn't find that synchronizer alignment tool, but was able to bend an aluminum can tab and wedge it in the new one to keep it from moving.
Cheers!
Thank you for your posts on this CMP/synchronizer problem. I was able to fix this problem and get that engine code off my '95 Ranger (after driving 100 miles) because of this thread and your responses. It makes me proud to own a Ford p/u!
PS. I couldn't find that synchronizer alignment tool, but was able to bend an aluminum can tab and wedge it in the new one to keep it from moving.
Cheers!
#36
08-27-2004, 11:02 PM
Inkpap
I have a trouble code PO340 and the dash light is on. With all the help on this site I was able to find the darn sensor. I have a ticking noise that's coming from it. If I put my finger on the top of it I can feel the vibration. This is on a 1996 Ford taurus 3.0 with 58,000 miles. Can just the sensor make this noise or am I looking at replacing other things? I bought just the sensor tonight and the only thing I can see that might do this is if the metal tab in the middle of the sensor might be loose......I'm hoping!! I'm going to take the old sensor off tomorrow. Any Ideas? Money is tight right now so this is something I'm going to have to tackle myself.
Thanks for any info !!!!
Thanks for any info !!!!
#37
08-28-2004, 11:12 AM
Originally Posted by inkpap
I have a trouble code PO340 and the dash light is on. With all the help on this site I was able to find the darn sensor. I have a ticking noise that's coming from it. If I put my finger on the top of it I can feel the vibration. This is on a 1996 Ford taurus 3.0 with 58,000 miles. Can just the sensor make this noise or am I looking at replacing other things? I bought just the sensor tonight and the only thing I can see that might do this is if the metal tab in the middle of the sensor might be loose......I'm hoping!! I'm going to take the old sensor off tomorrow. Any Ideas? Money is tight right now so this is something I'm going to have to tackle myself.
Thanks for any info !!!!
Thanks for any info !!!!
Usually if it's making noise like that, the whole synchronizer assembly needs to be replaced. But trying out the new sensor is easy enough, so why not give it a shot first?
#38
08-29-2004, 06:18 AM
Originally Posted by Rockledge
Welcome to FTE!
Usually if it's making noise like that, the whole synchronizer assembly needs to be replaced. But trying out the new sensor is easy enough, so why not give it a shot first?
Usually if it's making noise like that, the whole synchronizer assembly needs to be replaced. But trying out the new sensor is easy enough, so why not give it a shot first?
Thanks again!
#39
08-29-2004, 08:45 AM
I've never changed the assembly myself so I wouldn't know for sure. But I've heard about people simply marking things and being able to get the job done without the special tool. I myself would be inclined to follow the instructions that have been posted in this thread, as they are proven methods.
#40
08-29-2004, 08:44 PM
Rockledge
Originally Posted by Rockledge
I've never changed the assembly myself so I wouldn't know for sure. But I've heard about people simply marking things and being able to get the job done without the special tool. I myself would be inclined to follow the instructions that have been posted in this thread, as they are proven methods.
I installed the sensor and assembly today without the "special tool". I marked things real well before removing the old one so I'd be sure to get the new one in the same exact place. It worked and my car runs great! It took me 1 hour 45 minutes to complete the job. The sensor cost $37. and the assembly $142. I really like Fords but the design of the sensor is a joke. The metal magnet inside the sensor fell off damaging the assembly. The "c" looked like a "d", but not bad enough that I couldn't figure out where one of the ends were before it got twisted. I know this is a "truck site" but I do own a motorhome on a Ford E350 (V-10)....I hope this matters....lol.
Thanks so much for your help and all the other people who have posted info and repair ideas about this problem. This is a great place and believe me I've looked at a bunch of others that arn't worth a darn. Lot's of good people here!
Thanks Again !!!!
Last edited by inkpap; 08-29-2004 at 08:47 PM. Reason: spelling
#41
08-29-2004, 09:46 PM
Originally Posted by inkpap
Rockledge,
I installed the sensor and assembly today without the "special tool". I marked things real well before removing the old one so I'd be sure to get the new one in the same exact place. It worked and my car runs great! It took me 1 hour 45 minutes to complete the job. The sensor cost $37. and the assembly $142. I really like Fords but the design of the sensor is a joke. The metal magnet inside the sensor fell off damaging the assembly. The "c" looked like a "d", but not bad enough that I couldn't figure out where one of the ends were before it got twisted. I know this is a "truck site" but I do own a motorhome on a Ford E350 (V-10)....I hope this matters....lol.
Thanks so much for your help and all the other people who have posted info and repair ideas about this problem. This is a great place and believe me I've looked at a bunch of others that arn't worth a darn. Lot's of good people here!
Thanks Again !!!!
I installed the sensor and assembly today without the "special tool". I marked things real well before removing the old one so I'd be sure to get the new one in the same exact place. It worked and my car runs great! It took me 1 hour 45 minutes to complete the job. The sensor cost $37. and the assembly $142. I really like Fords but the design of the sensor is a joke. The metal magnet inside the sensor fell off damaging the assembly. The "c" looked like a "d", but not bad enough that I couldn't figure out where one of the ends were before it got twisted. I know this is a "truck site" but I do own a motorhome on a Ford E350 (V-10)....I hope this matters....lol.
Thanks so much for your help and all the other people who have posted info and repair ideas about this problem. This is a great place and believe me I've looked at a bunch of others that arn't worth a darn. Lot's of good people here!
Thanks Again !!!!
The manner in which your synchronizer shaft was destroyed is common, so I'd have to agree with you on the design.
And BTW, yes the 3.0L "vulcan" engine in your Taurus is the same one that's in the Ranger.
#42
09-28-2004, 10:23 AM
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#44
01-10-2005, 07:25 PM
My Turn for DTC P0340
Well, it happened. The CEL came on my Taurus yesterday, so I pulled the codes and guess what came up? P0340 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction. 
When I saw the code on the scanner I immediately thought of this thread and the experiences of the people who have posted to it regarding their own CMP issues. I pretty much knew I was looking at replacing the cam sensor at least, and maybe even the synchronizer/shaft, as well.
Getting at the sensor & synchronizer/shaft on the Taurus requires removing the upper intake on account of the throttle body assembly being located at the rear of the engine - hence the linkage sits directly on top of the CMP sensor (remember the Taurus engine is mounted transversely). I’m not sure if this same requirement exists for the Ranger vulcan, with the TB assembly being in the the front of the engine.
My Taurus was filthy with dirt and salt from a recent winter storm, so before getting going on the repair I drove it over to the local carwash in order to clean it off. When I got back, I noticed a slight squeaking sound was coming from the engine in the area of the cam sensor. The sound wasn't quite as high-pitched as a belt squeal or pulley chirp, it had more of a “scratching” tone to it, however I can understand how the noises might be confused. In any case, this development made me more concerned about a possible synchronizer/shaft problem in addition to the bad sensor.
When I finally dove in, pulled the upper intake off and removed the cam sensor, I was happy to discover that the synchronizer/shaft assembly, including the Hall-Effect vane switch, was still intact and did not look bent or broken in any way [in the pic below, the red arrow points to the intact vane].
However, I did find that the magnet from the sensor had broken completely off and was lying on the base of the vane switch. [The pic below shows the underside of a good CMP sensor, with the magnetic tab encircled in red].
I attribute the slight squeaking/scratching noise I heard to the metal-to-metal contact of the broken magnet and the base of the vane switch. Because of this experience, it is easy for me to understand how a loose, broken magnet "tab" could start dancing around and get jammed up in the spinning vane switch, bending and/or breaking it.
Long story short, I got off with just replacing the sensor.
Cost me $32.00 for the sensor, and along with the $6 I paid for a new Fel-Pro upper intake gasket (both parts from Advance Auto), the job came in at under 40 bucks total. Wonder how much it would have cost for the same diagnosis and repair at a dealership? 
When I saw the code on the scanner I immediately thought of this thread and the experiences of the people who have posted to it regarding their own CMP issues. I pretty much knew I was looking at replacing the cam sensor at least, and maybe even the synchronizer/shaft, as well.
Getting at the sensor & synchronizer/shaft on the Taurus requires removing the upper intake on account of the throttle body assembly being located at the rear of the engine - hence the linkage sits directly on top of the CMP sensor (remember the Taurus engine is mounted transversely). I’m not sure if this same requirement exists for the Ranger vulcan, with the TB assembly being in the the front of the engine.
My Taurus was filthy with dirt and salt from a recent winter storm, so before getting going on the repair I drove it over to the local carwash in order to clean it off. When I got back, I noticed a slight squeaking sound was coming from the engine in the area of the cam sensor. The sound wasn't quite as high-pitched as a belt squeal or pulley chirp, it had more of a “scratching” tone to it, however I can understand how the noises might be confused. In any case, this development made me more concerned about a possible synchronizer/shaft problem in addition to the bad sensor.
When I finally dove in, pulled the upper intake off and removed the cam sensor, I was happy to discover that the synchronizer/shaft assembly, including the Hall-Effect vane switch, was still intact and did not look bent or broken in any way [in the pic below, the red arrow points to the intact vane].
However, I did find that the magnet from the sensor had broken completely off and was lying on the base of the vane switch. [The pic below shows the underside of a good CMP sensor, with the magnetic tab encircled in red].
I attribute the slight squeaking/scratching noise I heard to the metal-to-metal contact of the broken magnet and the base of the vane switch. Because of this experience, it is easy for me to understand how a loose, broken magnet "tab" could start dancing around and get jammed up in the spinning vane switch, bending and/or breaking it.
Long story short, I got off with just replacing the sensor.
Cost me $32.00 for the sensor, and along with the $6 I paid for a new Fel-Pro upper intake gasket (both parts from Advance Auto), the job came in at under 40 bucks total. Wonder how much it would have cost for the same diagnosis and repair at a dealership?
#45
01-10-2005, 07:58 PM
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