Its on sale now for 35.00. Click this link: Ford / Mercury Cam Sensor Syncro Positioning Tool: 1996 - 2002 3.8L, 4.2L, & 5.0L V6

 

does anybody know the difference between the sensor and the cam synchronizer? I'm a little confused. I have the squeak and which one has to be fixed and how much does it cost..........Thanks!

 

Is the sensor in the same place on the 5.4L triton

 

its almost like putting a distributor in. the tool prevents it from moving during installation. and i can't tell ya where the senser is on 5.4l. probably in the same place as the 4.6 v8..... on mine its in back of the lifter valley. which is a single in block cam engine 4.0 v6. and where the distributor would be. the senser for my 4.0 was about 160$ and tool was about 40$
i think the 4.6 and 5.4 are over head cam engines. and i would say somewhere in the front of the engine. on the gear train.

 

Great info! Where it is - what it is - what it looks like - and how to replace. Thanks much.
Frank T.

 

or leave it alone it will run without it. and they are fun to change. on the 4.0l 245ci you have to tear half the engine apart. trust me i did mine. otc makes a tool that holds it in place. during the install. its almost like putting a distrubutor in. just run your #1 up to TDC and install.

 

So after reading this thread there are two questions I have to ask. One- I have 96 Explorer 4L and at Rockauto it lists a 123mm and a 132mm size. I would like to know if anyone knows which size I need for the sync unit without removal. It's my ride for now. Two- Do I or don't I have to remove the intake manifold to get at this. Thanks for the help.

 

I have a code p0340 (cam sensor) but am not have any bad symptoms my truck runs fine like regular no loss of power and it does not idle rough what could it be causing the p0304 to cut on and where is the the cam sensor at on my check am not a mechanic but i just want to visual check it to see if a wire became disconnected also about a week b4 the light came on. I had to put on a used 2000 lincoln Navigator with the 5.4 alternator on my truck and my truck is a 1998 ford expedition with the 4.6 engine would this have anything to do with the p0340 code on my truck. The alternator works fine when my neighbor brought it was brand new but he stop driving it and let it sit soon after buying it for a couple years when i need the alternator he sold me his so do you have any ideals or ways i could fix this code on my truck

 

Hi All, I was going to replace the camshaft syncro in my 1997 Ford Ranger. I heard a chirping sound and realized it was not a belt, so I googled "chirping sound ford ranger" and came up with everything do it yourself about replacing the part. Ran down to O'Reilly's, bought the part, and was ready to go! Only problem is, I cannot find one on my 3.0 V6 engine. I know it is supposed to be at the rear of the engine, but mine is not there. I bought the truck used, and the mechanic said they had rebuilt the engine; so maybe they dropped one in without the original config? I don't know. I am fairly mechanically inclined, have worked on cars all my life, so I like to think that I can figure this simple part out before my oil pump seizes up and my little point a to b baby goes kabloom. Can anyone come up with odd places or ideas on where my camshaft syncro might be or gone? Thanks!

 

I'm going to bring this thread back from the dead again. Just put a rebuilt 3.0L engine in a '98 Ranger. I didn't know about the C.M.P. and the special positioning. The engine runs but records EGR and Too Lean codes. Having the fuel injector timing off makes sense. so I am going to get this corrected ASAP. Only question that I have is the correct position of the little metal 'window' when Cyl #1 is @ TDC compression?

 

Mainly all it needs to do is clear the manifold. I just stabbed mine today on my 99 Ranger that I'm putting a long block in, and the window ended up centered over the holddown bolt hole. My Chiltons manual says 38 degrees from engine centerline and that's where I ended up. It was also located centered on the hold down hole when I tore it down. Go to the parts house and buy the appropriate too. All my parts house had was a set of 3 different styles, and I only needed one of them but the set of 3 was only $25. If I am not mistaken, (and someone correct me if I am wrong!) all the CMP is detecting is TDC#1 so in reality the synchronizer could be installed at any clock position as long as the "tit" is centered in the window. That is basically what the tool does, no more no less. I think the "degrees from centerline" thing is just to keep it from interfering with other components.

 

Hi all, when I bought my truck (2003 Ford Ranger) the previous owner said that I would need to replace the camshaft sensor to get rid of the idling sitting at stop signs and red lights and to get rid of the long starts. The other day I bought a aftermarket cam shaft sensor and installed it. It started in under 2 seconds and I thought everything was good and decided to drive it around the block. If I went past 2000 RPMs the truck would begin to jolt, tried shifting to 2nd and the same thing happened. I'm not a mechanic by any means and I thought it would be an easy fix. I disconnected the wire to the sensor and it runs the same as before. Any thoughts? Thanks.

 

From what I have found the synchronizer ,,,,,,, factory ones did not oil well and would shell out after 80000 miles or so,,,,,,, you can get a auto zone replacement with sensor and tool ( well i did in Dyersburg TN) but you are better off to spend a few more bucks and get a Motorcraft one ( the auto zone one is what I could afford but later learned they dont hold up well ),,,, hope this helps

 

After some years, I got that P0340 code again. This time I went and ordered the synchronizer assembly with CPS sensor from Rockauto. The "World Power Systems" one, part number CAMS2606 fits my 1995 Ranger 3.0L. I was lucky and only had to replace the sensor this time, but thought I'd mention to others that the assembly with sensor and the plastic alignment tool come together in this one and delivered for about $33.

 

I normally hang out in the Super Duty section but I could use a little help here. So after reading 15 pages I'm still not clear on this but maybe I'm making it way more difficult than it needs to be. But it's my neighbor's truck so I want to be sure of what I do. I replaced the 3.0 in his 2002 Ranger with a rebuilt long block and everything is all buttoned up except for bleeding the clutch and this cam synchronizer. Everything I've read is basically for changing a new one for an existing one but I'm starting at ground zero and have a couple questions:

1. Is TDC with the 0* on the balancer next to the cast pointer on the front cover or under the crank position sensor? I would think the pointer but I'm not sure. Or should I pull the plug and do the screwdriver up & down method?
2. I've read setting the cam synchronizer everywhere from 75* out all the way to 15* out but nothing definitive. I also read to just use the tool, make sure the engine is at TDC and stick the thing in as it could actually be anywhere as long as the tab is in the window since the cam synchronizer just reads TDC, which makes perfect sense.

I'm off to get the tool after work to try and button this project up so any and all help from you guys is greatly appreciated.