Ok, I've been having this problem for months...I'll start the truck cold and it runs fine, after I shut the ignition off and try to restart it, all I get is cranking and it won't fire. Sometimes it won't start cold either. I've checked the wires and I'm getting good spark. The fuel pump relay is working and I smell gas after cranking for a while. The ignition swich is good, and I seem to be getting good spark consistantly, so I think the coil's fine. I've replaced the ECT sensor, Fuel pump relay, and the ignition relay. I also rewired my Maps sensor because the wires were frayed. BUT I STILL HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. If the fuel pump is working, and I'm getting good spark, it should fire. Sometimes it does, and then after getting warm...it just cranks and cranks. I'm going crazy here. The only thing I can think of is to replace the ECM module. Does anybody have any ideas???? I'm at the end of my ropes.

 

I'm having a simular problem with my 93 explorer.Sometimes it will just crank and crank but not start I also notice the check engine light is NOT on when you turn the ignition switch on and you can't hear the fuel pump pressurize.Then i can open the power distibution box and wiggle the fuel pump relay then you can hear the pump kick on and the check engine light is lit, then it will start perfectly.
It sounds pretty easy,A bad connection right, Now I have changed the fuel pump and the relay twice and took the distribution box out and soldered the connections in that area.Then took it to 2 ford dealers and they gave up on it.
Anybody every seen any problems like these we can use a direction to look in. Thanx

 

Check the compression next, this may tell you more.

jerryde
This won't help you but I'm sure you are close with the relays. If memory serves me there are two on those. A green one and black one? Then again I sometimes have a severe case of CRS!

 

Thanx for your quick reply...... The thing runs great once you get it started so I would think the compression is O.K....It only has about 60k miles on it.
I found a black relay but where is the green one located????
Does anybody have a wiring diagram on a 93 explorer so I can tell what components are tied to that same circuit. Might make it easier to track down.

 

i had this happen on my '91 5.0. it run spin over, and i could smell gas. turned out it was the MAP sensor. i think, since the 88-91's are just under the hood seal at the cowl, (pass.side) water may have goten in it over the years. replaced it and she fired up like a cannon. don't buy a borg warner. that's what i got and it went out whithin prob. 6 months. there about $60-70 aftermarket, or look on ebay. not sure where it's located on the explorer, unless you have mass air.

 

I'm having the exact same problem with my truck! I've replaced everything, modules, wires, fuel pump, switch, ignition engine (4 times), etc.
I don't know what to do anymore!

 

abel, did you replace your map sensor???

 

I'm not sure if I did... to be honest with you, I didn't know for sure what a MAP sensor was after I researched online last night. So where do I look for it? Might that be the problem then?... I know I had a relay and a module changed at the distributor... Does that make any sense?
Opening the switch and seeing the "check engine" light on, will tell me anything?... I see a lot of comments about this relating it with the well functioning of the modules and fuel system altogether.
Thanks for your concern and help guys.

Abel

 

Abel, yes I've had my ignition module replaced also. This is the one that's on the base of the distributor. However, I too am still having the same problem. I thought it was the MAP sensor. Basically it regulates the pressure inside the manifold. It should be located on the firewall just under the cowl of the hood. It's not very big, square in shape and should have three wires running into it. if your looking at the engine, it should be to the right of the heater core. My sensor wasn't getting any voltage. I rewired it, and the sensor seems to be working fine, however I'm still having the same problem. So as I said before, my fuel pump is working and i'm getting good spark, so the only thing I can think of is that the injectors aren't opening. I think the main computer (the ECM) controls them. I'm in the process of trying to find a new computer. You might want to check yours and see if it's got moisture or dirt on it. It's a much bigger module, about 6 inches long, 4 inches wide and an inch deep. Mines located behind the driver side kick panel. I think your's should be there too. To remove it, you'll have to disconnect the 60-pin wire harness that's screwed into in through the firewall. if you look under your power brake booster on the firewall you should see the big 60 pin connection. I'm thinking maybe both our ECM are bad. Let me know if any of this helps, and I'll let you guys know what happens if I find a new computer

 

From all the information I've read, when an engine starts good cold, runs good and doesn't stall, but starts hard or won't start when warm, it's a fuel pressure problem. Possibly the fuel pressure regulator. My suggestion, get the fuel pressure checked.

 

That's what I was thinking too. But I had the pressure checked a few weeks ago and it seemed fine. Any other ideas? I'm still heading toward the direction that the injectors aren't firing

 

I know this sounds to simple but what about your distributor caps. My 92 302 would start without a hitch cold, but once it was warm the only way was to hold the accel pedal to the floor (which turns off the injectors), changed out the 2 month old (accel brand) distributor cap problem solved

 

Hey guys! Thanks for your help... I'll have the MAP sensor checked; thanks for the directions.
This might be interesting to comment. Since we are all thinking that it might be the fuel pressure or the injectors, before you go towards that direction I should tell you that mine has the same problem when I run in propane (90% of the time) and the injectors do not work with this system. So I guess that they don't have anything to do with this. I have the same problem with the propane (works with carburator) or with gasoline (injectors). Everything you've told me about the MAP sensor makes a lot more sense to me because it really feels like there is not enough fuel (gaseous or fluid) at the moment of ignition, that's why it cranks and cranks. Sometimes it helps when I press the accelerator pedal while starting the car. Does that make any sense to you? Does the fuel pressure regulator look like a small gasoline filter? and is on the engine on the left hand side? I replaced it 1 month ago because it was always letting the gasoline pass even with just an open switch, but replacing it didn't help for this other problem.
Sorry for asking so many questions that might seem pretty obvious, but I know all the names of the parts in Spanish and it is totally different in English.
Thanks guys!

 

Gasman, I'm curious about your post. My truck usually starts up cold, but sometimes it dosent. So I'm not sure how the distributor cap could be affecting it. Could you explain in better detail??

 

On Mine It would start great cold, but acted like it was flooded on a hot restart. I had just changed cap, rotor and plugs/wires in the previous few months. I started backtracking and found my "new" pos dist cap was really grungey and tracked inside. Switched it out no more problems. Only thing I can fiqure is it was shorting to ground some how.