I don't think that 38/15.5s will fit w/o any lift. I'd say you need a 4" with cut-outs to clear them.
I remember reading about the cut-outs when they first came out that you'd be able to fit 37s. But, remember the tire and wheel width will also effect if they fit or not.

If you look in the back of the April 2004 OFF-ROAD mag, on page 91 there is a SD with 4.5" of lift and 38" Nitto Mud Grapplers with Hanneman Fiberglass front fenders and bedsides.

As for the Bilsteins, just a little FYI that the 5150s are generically valved with optional dual valvings (170/60) and single valvings (255/70) with a linear piston. The 5100s up to a 6" lift are valved specifically for the SD.


Hope this helps.

 

m25443, I didn't say no lift, a hanger/leveling kit does lift the front but does not change your springs. See my quote below.

On 10 inch wide rims my PJ 38x15s would not hit when turned and the suspension compressed with a 3.5 inch hanger kit. But different tires have a different height and tread width, I could not say another tire would not hit. And you could not run such tall tires without some form of front lift and just the flares.

 

any truck is going to dropp a good amount if you throw 1800lbs in the back!! thats probably over the legal limit on load anyway.. like CWB stated its a give and take, the lift companies are trying to balance your load capacity with yer ride.. High performance/high travel kits are going to sacrifice load capacity...but 1800lbs is alot.. it squat a stock truck pretty bad.. it put a chevys bumper on the pavement....

I have hauled more weight than that many times( i used to work in commercial gravel pit.. where we loaded all kinds of trucks, with all kinds of weights.. but realize these trucks are only "underated" by the manufacturer to like 1000-1600 lbs of in the bed weight...

 

Also be aware that no one yet makes fiberglass bedsides for long beds, that I know of.

 

I am staying away from fiberglass. I'd rather cut the metal and put on the Bushwacker cut-outs.

I really like the idea of being able to run a 36" (maybe 37"???) tire with no lift kit.

I still have not seen anyone with that setup. How come?

Mike.

 

Because - with that size tires you may as well increase your ground clearance too over the mid section of your truck.

Besides - you don't see it because it looks goofy - the truck needs to be lifted to look right...

I would lift first then do the tires...

IMHO

 

Because It will look like crap and you will not have any travel to speak of. You need at least a four inch lift with the cut out's.

 

Well as a side note my Pro Comp lift is arriving tomorrow. 6.5" lift. Hope to install it tomorrow afternoon or Saturday morning...

Can't wait.

 

Front spring hanger kits are only about $400 anyway, might as well level the truck. Cutouts gain you 2 inches radially at the top and about 3.5 inches at the rear of the front opening, you pretty much cut to the fender's body line that curves around the opening. So you could probably get away with skinnier 36s with just cutouts, but I'd do some testing before actually buying the tires and wheels. It might cost some extra for the tire shop to mount and test but it would be safer than just assuming no rubbing.

 

Thanks Smiley,

I thought about narrow tires, but the Bushwacker cutouts stick out so far that I think it needs at least a 14.50.

If they made the cutouts that only extend out an inch or so, I'd get a 36x12.50 and be happy (until that phenomenon of "I bought a 4" lift, now I wish I had bought a 6" lift" caught up to me.)

I think the Edge 4" front hanger and 2" rear block might provide just the right amount of clearance and room for travel. I like having the wheel wells filled up nicely, even if others don't like the look, but the 4" in front should allow for more travel and the extra room above the tire is probably needed.

So,

Bushwacker cut-outs
Edge 4" front hanger with 2 inch rear blocks
5100 Bilsteins (so I get the proper damping/rebound rates)
38x14.50 tires on 10 inch wheels with 4.65" backspacing

I hope somebody else does this real soon and can give additional personal experience.

Mike.

 

I don't think you will be happy with the look of a 10" wheel and the cut out's. The flares stick out to far. I think you need a 12" wide wheel to fill them up.


I do have a question for the guys that do run cut outs though. I'd like to get a set to run but don't want to cut the fenders apart. I just want them for the looks and width. If i could get a set and install them without cutting I would like to run a set of 36x14.5 PJ's on 12" wheels like jetjock. I've e-mailed bushwacker several times asking them but got no response.

 

hobert, from your post I doubt you have actually seen a SD truck with cutouts in person.
I run 15 inch wide tires on 9.75 inch wide wheels and they are slightly outside the outer edge of the cutout flares. 12 inch wide wheels would definitely put tire thread outside the edge.

I'm not surprised you get no reply from Bushwacker. I myself have no idea how to respond to your wish to run flares that can only mount by making the wheelwell opening much larger. I don't know anyone making wide pocket flares for a SD that are not cutout type.

 

hobert,

You could look into the Pocket Style flares from Bushwacker, that have a similar look to cut-outs w/o the cutting..........but they don't stick out nearly as far.

 

Let me change my statment then. A 12" wheel will give the tire a straighter sidewall, not as rounded as a 10" wheel. The wider wheel won't move the tread as much as it will straighten out the sidewall. Personalley I think they look better, I'M NOT saying a 10" wheel looks bad.
When I was looking into the cutouts originally there add said cutting was not required on all models. I didn't know if that ment you could flex the flare enough to mount it in the stock opening or not. I've been around trucks with them on, but have never seen a set installed. I don't know how extensive and the exact area were the cutting is.
DC i've seen the pocket style but not actually in person. I think the stick out like 2".

 

I was talking to a shop owner who installs the cut-outs a lot a few weeks ago and seem to remember that you cut around 2" on most of the front wheel well and then by the door closer to 4-4.5".......I didn't ask him about the rear.
This pic short of shows it:



The pocket flares sticking out 2" or so seems about right.