I just acquired a Holley 2300 "list 8226" which was an OEM carb on 74/75 F series trucks. This carb was factory on 302 c.i. as far as I can tell. The guy I bought it from pulled it off of his running 390 c.i. when he put on a 4 bbl & manifold. This carb has the choke mechanism that attached to a heat riser tube. My current autolite has an electric choke. I know that a Holley 45-226 electric choke kit is what I need to convert existing choke...however I am thinking about putting a manual choke on it instead. Any pros and cons regarding electric vs manual choke that I need to consider?

 

a manual would be fine, specially on cold start-ups, you can use it as kind of a throttle control, so u dont have to have your foot on the gas till its warm. i have one and i like it better than the electric choke, i had to many problems with it, and i have had no trouble with the manual one ever.

 

Kinda what I was thinking Fordman. However I do remember (from years ago) that universal manual choke kits were sorta sloppy...are there any good manual choke kits available or does Holley make a manual choke kit that you are aware of?

 

im not sure if holley makes a kit but i picked mine up at a parts store for about 15 bucks, and it was simple putting on, and it works great there is no slop in it, i wouldnt reccomend getting a used one, it may not last long, for how cheap you can get new ones id go with a new one.

 

Holley does have a conversion kit, and it works very nicely and matches the carb. It's part no. 45-225 and I would expect you could look it up at Summit or Jeg's to get an idea of price and what it looks like. I put one on my Street Avenger, wouldn't have an electric! Steve

 

Thanks for your input guys...I am going to scrap the electric and add a manual choke kit. Appreciate it.

 

I don't run a choke at all, no signs of one
But if I had one, it'd be manual on this truck
For a everyday driver, Id go with electric if they arent to much of a PITA

 

I've never been able to get an after market manual choke to work well. I think it was because the after market cable was too flimsy and didn't have enough support. If you do it try to minimize any sharp bends and zip-tie that sucker to every solid piece of metal it runs next to.