Hi,

I'm getting ready to paint my '76 F150 4x4 and would like to keep the paint original. But what kind of paint came on these trucks? It has lasted a very long time...and is a good tough paint that doesn't chip easily.

I'm not sure if the older paints are different from the new style paint jobs, but I want original paint type with the original paint colors...if possible.

Also, what is the best brand for that older style paint???

Thanks for your help!

 

namel

 

Thanks. So I can go to the body shop and say I want "namel" paint...and they should know what it is?

Also, is that better paint than today's paints?

Again...I am not into paints and have no clue. Any help is appreciated.

 

sorry, my e key didnt hit. It depends on where your from, here in the south we call it 'namel, up north its enamel

Not really, the enamel paints were pretty much replaced by the urethanes being put on todays cars/trucks. Most new vehicles have what is called a two stage system now, a base coat for color, top coated with a urethane clearcoat. Both are dangerous to use because of the catalyst (hardener) used, having isocyanates in them. But, the bc/cc is prefered by most now because of being user friendly, and the cc has good UV protection. The enamels do not have any UV protection, thats why you see many of the older cars, faded out. The enamels are still sold just like the urethanes today, but they are trickier to spray, and harder to repair/blend.
On the down side, when restoring a older vehicle, like my 79 ford p/u, I used bc/cc for the easier application ( I bought a Fresh air suppy, a MUST when using iso based paint products !) BUT, the "plastic coat" look from the CC is not visually accurate for the old trucks "original "look. Thats why some are opting for the single stage urethanes and even putting enamels back on. Some more people will help out here, good luck

 

Thanks again Greg...for all the excellent info!

So if I choose an enamel paint, that means I am "UNABLE" to have a Clear Coat applied?...Ever?

If that is true...then no biggie I guess, but sure would like the factory paint look with CC UV protection. But if worse comes to worse...I can do the once/twice a year weekend polishing that will UV (and elements) protect the enamel paint.

 

Oops...forgot to mention in my previous reply...


What brand paint is affordable, but really good.


Thanks.

 

Auto painting is a universe in itself, that is a lot more complicated than some will confess to. Do a web search and type in autobodystore, or autorestore, auto paint, that type of thing, and keep going to the links and you will get more fine info than you'll ever want to read. cheers.

 

Your truck's color can be matched with today's urethanes. Though it will be a "single stage" color (not requiring a clear coat) it is possible to clear it, and IMO it won't change it's appearance enough to notice, but will make it more durable. I'd recomend the clear.

I don't really consider any car paint very affordable today! The major brands are close enough in price to not make brand shopping worth it.(at least in my area) The noticeably cheaper paints WON'T last as long, or shine as well.

I'd go with urethane over enamel - since the urethanes came out about 10 years ago, the enamels don't seem to be of as good a quality as they used to.

In my HUMBLE opinion, if you're just doing one paint job, a good charcoal respirator will do for you if you're carefull, make sure it fits tight, with some ventilation and common sense. Watch too much aggresive ventilation though or you'll have a paint job full of dirt.

In addition to your internet search, try to find a paint supply store with a proprietor who takes an interest in his work, and he'll give you plenty of good advise.

marc

 

Good post Marc,

I have found out the hard way auto painting is a league of its own. I tried to find a shop to do mine , but no takers, they dont do "restores' too time consuming they said , to make a profit, now I see why they said that . So I learned fron the net, how to do my own. I did it, made a bunch of mistakes, finished re-doing them today, its going to look o.k., BUT, I could have paid someone 5k and still would have come out better by not having to invest in all the safety eq. and guns, sanding equipment, compressor, etc. AND would not have spent 8 months of my free time prepping/painting, and ruining my garage and workshop with all dust and the paint mess.
**A note to all on spray painting the new urethanes, there is a LOT of discussion on the pro boards about iso poisioning and what equipment to use to protect yourself. ( fresh air supply IS the only way to go on total iso protection) The charcoal mask , with prefilters is acceptable by some, but to me, one still will not have facial skin/eye protection (iso's like moist skin and eye tissue) using them. Get educated before you spray !! Dont play games with your health, the truck will be in a rusty graveyard years from now, dont send your health with it, they are not worth the risk,** imo

 

Hey Greg,

You're right on the health stuff. I have a fresh air system now, but did a lot of catalyzed enamel jobs in the 80's with only charcoal. I may be feeling it just a little now at age 49 with my short stamina (but maybe I'm just out of shape - maybe all 49 yr olds feel this way )

It's hard to imagine how much work a restore is untill you do it. But if you don't mind the work, and can use the equipment for more jobs, learning as you go, I think it's worth it. Doing your own paintwork is the ultimate in satisfaction I think.

I used to do it for a living. Didn't make much money and wouldn't recomend it as a living, but a great hobby - I'll never completely stop!

marc

 

Hey Marc, just wait till your on the 52 mark, you wont believe how the easy jobs, get to be so tuff ! , Like I said above, I didnt paint mine to be cool , I couldnt get any one to do it. It is a two tone, total color change, MAJOR detail work. NEVER again ! (my wife wouldnt put up with the mess if I wanted, ha ) time slips away so fast, cheers

 

Again, thanks for the great info. To bad it is not possible to apply a CC on enamel paint. I would get the look I am seeking and the UV protection too.

I'm strongly looking into the "single stage" process...and adding at least one coat of clear. I think I've heard of some people applying 2 and 3 CC's. I sure would like to do at least 2...if that is possible? Can you all shed some light?...

Thanks again!

 

Depending on what's available in your area, it may be possible to find a clear coat that will be compatable with acrylic enamel. I've used Nason, and Mar-hyde, clears over Duponts acrylic enamel on two of my vehicles, and it's held up well. It's best to use the same brand products from start to finish, (they almost always recomend it) but the Mar-hyde clear was made to cover most any brand.

Clear is sprayed much like single stage color - 2 or 3 wet coats one right after the other, or with 10 or 15 minutes between coats. I assume by "one coat of clear" you mean 2 or 3 passes around the car as per label directions. (always follow label directions ) It's not a problem to let it dry at least overnight, and then lightly sand with 1200 or 1500 grit sandpaper, and then clear it again. I like to do that when I have time - gives it a slightly deeper look. Others may disagree, but I think more clear than that may cause a little too much film build to hold up under normal use / weather conditions.

What paint brands are available in your area? I've used a lot of Dupont and PPG, some Martin-Senior (napa) and just a little R&M, plus the clears I mentioned.

marc

 

i work in a paint and body shop . ppg is the best over all paint on the market. unless you want to mortgage the farm.
any good paint supply place can custom mix paint to the original paint codes on any vehicle. the can also put a paint code tester on the truck and get formulas that way to. id personaly go with a DCC type. that a single stage paint, meaning its shiny like clear coat type paints, but easier to tuch up any scratches later on

 

This is really turning into a good thread...Thanks.

So...

1 CC = 2 or 3 passes (always following label directions)
2 CC = 4 or 6 passes (always following label directions)

I think I'd like to go with the acrylic enamel and a 2 CC top coat. My truck will be getting the original colors...just like when my Dad drove it home in '76. The ford white (top) and a copper'ish color (bottom half and roof top).

Any positive or negative comments? Please keep them coming!