any 2 watt resistor from about 70 to 90 ohms will do, the higher the value, the lower the light output. I use 100 ohm and the brightness of the display is still quite useable. Resistors runs cooler too...
So... anyone figured out how to get instanteneous reading out of this display??
I would recommend 1/4W resistors only, as the display can be difficult to read during the day time sometimes. I like things bright, and 1/4W resistors are very easy to find, possibly even more so than 2W.
As for the instantaneous readings, could you specify a little?
"Seat heaters are God's way of saying 'No matter how bad your day may be, it could always be worse. You could have all this happen to you and your bum not be pleasantly toasted.'"
Its not so much of the wattage rating affecting the brightness. Wattage rating is the current carring capacity of the resistors. Original resistors wattage rating are just on the borderline (or minimum wattage) of the total current passing through with nothing to spare so they run quite hot and over time, the solder holding them on the board oxydized (corrode) until they fall apart.
If you like full bright as in factory original, obviuosly you should use 68 & 62 ohms resistors. When I got time later, I will probably change them out to ~70 ohms. I hate to remove the grey plastic cover as it is already desintigrating (the manufacturer did not mixed in enough plastic stabilizer causing them to break down within 5 years)
Now, I do not know what wattage rating those original resistors are and I believe you are right that 1/4 watt rating should be enough. But just to be on the safe side I use a larger wattage rating (2 watt) so there's absolutely no chance for them to heat up like the orignal.
As for instantaneous reading, it should be showing the current updated mileage every second or two, not the average mileage over time, this reading let you know how much fuel you are consumimng at a certain point of pedal travel and usually updated every second. When I opened up the board for repair, there is the word "INST" right beside the "AVE". This only means that this computer was designed to also get instantaneous reading but somehow, Ford ommited this function. For most other electronics, there are usually hidden ways of getting this extra feature, sometimes just by hitting the buttons in a specific sequence. Not important but nice to have.
found same on my console. Will head out to pick up soldering iron. One resister was up in the air, i guess when the solder let go it just drops away from the board. Finally an in expensive fix for my '03 super duty. After dropping $1200.00 for injectors last week!!!
i have a 2003 F-350 6.0
I'm attempting to fix my overhead console the way you guys have explained here, however, when it comes to taking the overhead console down, you say to just pull it downward and it will just pop off? I pulled on mine and it doesn’t really seem to give. The entire ceiling seems to be pretty well attached. Any advice, pictures or hidden tabs that I should know about or should I just pull harder?
See this thread with detailed instructions from Miescha and the photos in his gallery. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/44...-gone-out.html
I just resoldered the original resistors; which lasted a couple of years. They came loose again during the recent heat wave and I had to repeat the fix.
I just wanted to say thanks to Stugots for your help with the resistors I sure appreciate the help! I ended up messing up my board and just ordered a new one but it was an adventure anyway! Thanks again.
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