Need New Digital Readout computer for Ford F250 Overhead console??
#35
#36
#37
Its not so much of the wattage rating affecting the brightness. Wattage rating is the current carring capacity of the resistors. Original resistors wattage rating are just on the borderline (or minimum wattage) of the total current passing through with nothing to spare so they run quite hot and over time, the solder holding them on the board oxydized (corrode) until they fall apart.
If you like full bright as in factory original, obviuosly you should use 68 & 62 ohms resistors. When I got time later, I will probably change them out to ~70 ohms. I hate to remove the grey plastic cover as it is already desintigrating (the manufacturer did not mixed in enough plastic stabilizer causing them to break down within 5 years)
Now, I do not know what wattage rating those original resistors are and I believe you are right that 1/4 watt rating should be enough. But just to be on the safe side I use a larger wattage rating (2 watt) so there's absolutely no chance for them to heat up like the orignal.
As for instantaneous reading, it should be showing the current updated mileage every second or two, not the average mileage over time, this reading let you know how much fuel you are consumimng at a certain point of pedal travel and usually updated every second. When I opened up the board for repair, there is the word "INST" right beside the "AVE". This only means that this computer was designed to also get instantaneous reading but somehow, Ford ommited this function. For most other electronics, there are usually hidden ways of getting this extra feature, sometimes just by hitting the buttons in a specific sequence. Not important but nice to have.
cheers, max
If you like full bright as in factory original, obviuosly you should use 68 & 62 ohms resistors. When I got time later, I will probably change them out to ~70 ohms. I hate to remove the grey plastic cover as it is already desintigrating (the manufacturer did not mixed in enough plastic stabilizer causing them to break down within 5 years)
Now, I do not know what wattage rating those original resistors are and I believe you are right that 1/4 watt rating should be enough. But just to be on the safe side I use a larger wattage rating (2 watt) so there's absolutely no chance for them to heat up like the orignal.
As for instantaneous reading, it should be showing the current updated mileage every second or two, not the average mileage over time, this reading let you know how much fuel you are consumimng at a certain point of pedal travel and usually updated every second. When I opened up the board for repair, there is the word "INST" right beside the "AVE". This only means that this computer was designed to also get instantaneous reading but somehow, Ford ommited this function. For most other electronics, there are usually hidden ways of getting this extra feature, sometimes just by hitting the buttons in a specific sequence. Not important but nice to have.
cheers, max
#38
resistors
Would you email me at waltertreadwell@***.net and I will be happy to send you some funds.
Thanks!
Walt
#39
Stugots, I would love to purchase a set of resistors from you for my display "rebuild".
Would you email me at waltertreadwell@***.net and I will be happy to send you some funds.
Thanks!
Walt
Would you email me at waltertreadwell@***.net and I will be happy to send you some funds.
Thanks!
Walt
#40
#41
Help
If you still have any resitors avaliable I am interested in purchasing some from you shoot me an email if you can letting me know. tommy_sutherland@hotmail.com.
Thanks,
Criticaleye
#43
i have a 2003 F-350 6.0
I'm attempting to fix my overhead console the way you guys have explained here, however, when it comes to taking the overhead console down, you say to just pull it downward and it will just pop off? I pulled on mine and it doesn’t really seem to give. The entire ceiling seems to be pretty well attached. Any advice, pictures or hidden tabs that I should know about or should I just pull harder?
Thanks!
I'm attempting to fix my overhead console the way you guys have explained here, however, when it comes to taking the overhead console down, you say to just pull it downward and it will just pop off? I pulled on mine and it doesn’t really seem to give. The entire ceiling seems to be pretty well attached. Any advice, pictures or hidden tabs that I should know about or should I just pull harder?
Thanks!
#44
See this thread with detailed instructions from Miescha and the photos in his gallery.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/44...-gone-out.html
I just resoldered the original resistors; which lasted a couple of years. They came loose again during the recent heat wave and I had to repeat the fix.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/44...-gone-out.html
I just resoldered the original resistors; which lasted a couple of years. They came loose again during the recent heat wave and I had to repeat the fix.
#45