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  #16  
Old 01-31-2010, 11:37 PM
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TennesseeMustangPerf TennesseeMustangPerf is offline
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I did this on my 2003. It was a little hard to find the 62ohm resistors, RadioShack did not carry them, but I found an electronics store that did, and it works like a charm now. BTW, I also used your writeup, thanks bro! Muuuuuuch appreciated!
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  #17  
Old 05-05-2010, 10:18 AM
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Could I get just a hair more description on the soldering process? It will be my first time working on something like this. Where do I apply the solder to? Do I remove the resistors apply solder and put them back in? Also - Captain my Captain said 2 of them looked burned, but he didn't talk about replacing them. Then TennesseeMustangPerf said he replaced some. How do I know if any of them are actually bad? Thanks so much for this write-up. Hopefully it will save me some money. I appreciate it greatly.
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  #18  
Old 05-05-2010, 11:39 AM
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TennesseeMustangPerf TennesseeMustangPerf is offline
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First off, I think the OP mentioned that his screen looked to be burned. Yours probably will have this burn mark as well. Don't worry, they all pretty much seem to, it does not affect the functrion of the display, and when reinstalled you will never see it.
Topic two, how to solder. I can go into detail about the best way to solder, but since you are new to it I will take you the easy route. This will give you the best solder without too much expierence. I would suggest getting a piece of scrap metal and some wire and practicing first though.
As far as which resistors are bad, that is really easy to tell. Take your finger nail and scrape at them some, if they pull up then they have become desoldered and need replacement. They really don't go bad as much as they actually just overheat and unsolder from the circuit board. Since they are small ceramic resistors with not a lot of metal to solder to, it is extremely difficult to solder them back, especially for a beginning solderer. That is probably why they come undone anyway, poor resitor design and too much heat.
What you want to do is remove any resistor that is lose or not 100% solidly connected. Be sure to do this replacement one by one, so that you don't get ahead of yourself. Now, take your new resistor (make sure it is of the same value) and bend the ends 90 degrees twice to sort of dog leg it. Then, take a piece of solder wire and wrap three or four laps around the ends of the resistor wire you just bent. Place the resistor on the circuit board and make sure that the ends contact both sides solder points on the board. You do not have to worry about which way the resistor goes, even though there are colored bands that would make the resistor appear to indicate a direction, resistors are directional and can go either way. The bands are "values" that simply indicate the resistance and wattage. Now take your iron (or gun) and press it against the top of the solder wrapped wire to heat it up. This will meld the solder and create a firm joint. Once you have melted the solder, remove the iron and hold the resistor in place for a few seconds until the solder cools. Repeat the process for the other side and you are done. Make sure not to met the iron stay on the board too long or you could damage the board. Just enough time to allow for the solder to flow. Also, I prefer to use an iron style in these situations instead of a gun style. It is easier to control the heat in tight areas such as this. Lastly, do not use too much solder, use the fine silder wire and just three or four laps around the resistor wire will do it. Good luck!

http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/o...t/resistor.jpg
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  #19  
Old 05-05-2010, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brettdacosta View Post
Could I get just a hair more description on the soldering process?
..oh my. Some solder skills, ohms law knowlege, and an ohm meter are highly recommended for this repair. If you are not confident, find a friend who is.

You can check the resistors with an ohm meter to see if they are still attached and/or damaged and need replaced. In either case, you may want to replace them with higher wattage rated resistors to prevent reoccurance.
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  #20  
Old 05-05-2010, 11:45 AM
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Wonderful help, guys! Thanks again! I'll post back on how it goes.
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  #21  
Old 05-05-2010, 12:03 PM
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Good deal! Glad to help, good luck with it!
BTW, don't worry about OHMs law, Ford already did that for you. You just need some 62ohm and 68phm resistors. Just make sure to put them in the correct places and you will be fine. Trust me, when I popped mine out I was thinking "thins thing is just too far gone!", but once I did it and got it back in, it worked (and looks) like brand new! Matter of fact, this task earned me $495! I used it to talk the stealership down on price $500 when I bought the truck, as the overhead console was not working. Found out that I could fix it for $5, and so I did! Wahoo! Took all of ten minutes and a trip to the electronics store. Most people write these things off as DOA when 99.99% of the time it is a set of resistors that can be easily replaced. Incidentally, I would stick with the 1/4watt resistors. Your soldering will be better than the factory in Mexico that they are made in, and the design of the resistors that you buy will be better than the flat ceramic ones that came with it. I replaced mine five months ago, still no problems.
Here is a picture taken just last night.


Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
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  #22  
Old 05-07-2010, 10:24 AM
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Sorry - one more question. Which side of the board does the solder go on? The write-up gallery has a picture with the caption that says "you don't need to take the black foam off to perform the repair". Does this mean, you push the resistors back down and then apply the solder drops to each side of them? Everyone has shown the back of the board (under the foam) though, and I'm just wondering why if that's not where I need to apply the solder. Thanks again for all you guys help.
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  #23  
Old 05-08-2010, 01:02 AM
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Do yourself a favor and replace the loose resistors, do not just resolder them or you will be in the same boat in a few more months. As far as soldering, you will need to apply solder to both sides of the board (either side of the resistor). Don't know what they were talking about on the foam, mine had none.
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  #24  
Old 05-12-2010, 09:44 AM
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Wow! after struggling for a few days - did fixed mine too - then I saw this thread, all these display must have been crapping out at about the same time. I am at a location where parts are not available so I use what I have in the drawer, 100 ohm wire wound resistors. They are big at 5 watts and the higher resistance make the light a bit dimmer but still useable.

While doing this repair, I notice the trip counter also have a 4 letter display "INST" right beside the "AVG". I am wondering anyone know how to get this "Instanteneous" reading?

Cheers, max
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  #25  
Old 05-19-2010, 02:06 PM
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anyone know the link to the original repair writeup with pics and stuff? i remember posting my repair pics in it but i cant find it for the life of me! help

Ray
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  #26  
Old 05-19-2010, 02:47 PM
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You pretty much just pull the overhead pod straight off (downward) and disconnect the harness. Then, using a Torx bit, remove the black plastic cover and set aside. You will see a series of resistors that read "620" and "680". Take off the "0" to find the resistance values.
Some of the resistors will be lose. Simply pull the resistors off that are lose, one at a time, and solder the new ones into their place taking care to reinstall each resistor with the correct value. Put it all back together and you are done!

Note: make sure to replace the resistors, do not reuse them or you will be doing this all over again. Also, the tab type resistors that came with the pod are much harder to solder, and you can easily damage the circuit board if you apply too much heat or heat for too long a period of time.
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Old 05-19-2010, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TennesseeMustangPerf View Post
You pretty much just pull the overhead pod straight off (downward) and disconnect the harness. Then, using a Torx bit, remove the black plastic cover and set aside. You will see a series of resistors that read "620" and "680". Take off the "0" to find the resistance values.
Some of the resistors will be lose. Simply pull the resistors off that are lose, one at a time, and solder the new ones into their place taking care to reinstall each resistor with the correct value. Put it all back together and you are done!

Note: make sure to replace the resistors, do not reuse them or you will be doing this all over again. Also, the tab type resistors that came with the pod are much harder to solder, and you can easily damage the circuit board if you apply too much heat or heat for too long a period of time.

mines been working great with the original resistors resoldered they were really easy to resolder also.
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  #28  
Old 05-19-2010, 02:54 PM
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That is awesome, but usually they pop due to not enough resolder surfaces and excess heat. Changing to a wire type will give plenty of wire to solder with as well a allow it to run cooler, too.
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  #29  
Old 05-24-2010, 12:07 AM
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Sounds like the same thing. The overhead consoles have been known to go completely out due to flawed resistors. They are small and overheat, which leads to the small bit of solder coming undone and popping the resistors off. When this happens, the whole unit goes completely dead. Most dealerships don't know about this easy fix, and those that do would rather charge a wad of cash for a new unit. Thankfully, a little research led me to a forum like FTE that showed me how to fix them, so all I was out was around $5 for some resistors. There are some people that charge $70-$90 for this fix on Ebay, thankfully I found out how to do it before I paid someone $90 for $5 in parts. Shwew!
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  #30  
Old 05-28-2010, 01:14 AM
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Can anybody find a link to the replacement resistors to buy online?
I feel comfortable doing the work, just get a bit confused the about electronic parts.
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Old 05-28-2010, 01:14 AM
 
 
 
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