1998 mazda b2500 clutch bleed
#1
1998 mazda b2500 clutch bleed
Can someone please help me? I have a 98 b2500 and recently had the slave, master, and clutch replaced. There is no leakage from the system, but I have trouble putting the truck into gear. System should probably be bled again, but I have heard that if it is done improperly it could destroy the master cylinder. Is it bad to continue driving it like this? Can anyone suppy me with detailed instructions on how to bleed the system properly? Thanks for your help....Hawki Toronto Canada
#2
Welcome to FTE hawki_peers.
The bleeder valve is accessible through a port on the left side of the bell housing. The system is a gravity bleed type.
Take the cap off of the master. Open the bleeder valve and allow the fluid to drain out. Keep the master full during this process. Absolutely do not let it get empty.
When the fluid that is draining out no longer has air bubbles in it, close the bleeder valve and top up the master.
If you have a piece of hose/tube that will fit over the bleeder valve, that will help contain the mess.
The bleeder valve is accessible through a port on the left side of the bell housing. The system is a gravity bleed type.
Take the cap off of the master. Open the bleeder valve and allow the fluid to drain out. Keep the master full during this process. Absolutely do not let it get empty.
When the fluid that is draining out no longer has air bubbles in it, close the bleeder valve and top up the master.
If you have a piece of hose/tube that will fit over the bleeder valve, that will help contain the mess.
#3
This is the easiest way Ive found to bleed the master in my 94.
inside the cab, pull the starter interlock from the clutch rod, disconnect the rod from the pedal arm. You will see a circlip in the master over the piston. Pull the circlip, pull the piston till just the air and a little fluid escapes, pump the master a couple of strokes repeat the above, reasemble than bleed per the manual, open the bleeder and let gravity bleed. Might have to bleed the bleeder a couple of times, biggest thing is the air in the master.
I am guessing that yours should be about the same. The angle the master sits does not allow all air to bleed out as it is trapped up against the piston, and Ive tried to bleed the old way (pump, hold, bleed) and I tried to pressure bleed with a Mity|Vac and neither really worked.
inside the cab, pull the starter interlock from the clutch rod, disconnect the rod from the pedal arm. You will see a circlip in the master over the piston. Pull the circlip, pull the piston till just the air and a little fluid escapes, pump the master a couple of strokes repeat the above, reasemble than bleed per the manual, open the bleeder and let gravity bleed. Might have to bleed the bleeder a couple of times, biggest thing is the air in the master.
I am guessing that yours should be about the same. The angle the master sits does not allow all air to bleed out as it is trapped up against the piston, and Ive tried to bleed the old way (pump, hold, bleed) and I tried to pressure bleed with a Mity|Vac and neither really worked.
#4
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