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  #1  
Old 12-31-2003, 08:07 PM
F0rdF0rever F0rdF0rever is offline
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Injectors

This weekend I need to replace the injector o rings. I was hoping to get some instructions on doing this. Also I thought if its a burden to get to the injectors I should replace them while I was there. Whats the best price I can get the injectors for. Its a 95 f350. Thanks
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  #2  
Old 01-01-2004, 10:35 AM
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The cost of replacing your injectors is going to be pretty steep. The best price I've heard of for injectors is $1000 per set, but that also includes a chip. Replacing the O-rings is time consuming, but mainly because getting the valve covers, intake, etc out of the way is a pain. The tool that you'll need, but might not have, is a torque wrench that reads in in/lbs.
After removing the valve covers, pull the two allen plugs at the top of the head. That will drain the HPOP on that bank of cylinders, and make life easier later. Disconnect the wiring harness from the injector and glow plug, and remove the oil diverter from the upper left corner of the injector. Then, remove the hold-down bolt from the bottom edge of the injector. At this point you'll need something to pry with, like a crowbar. Position the crowbar at the top of the injector, so you're prying up on the injector plate, and using the top edge of the head for leverage. This will extract the injector. Remove the glow plug. Remove the old O-rings from the injector, being careful not to scratch the injector itself. As you're installing the new O-rings on the injector, be careful not to stretch them any more than absolutely necessary, and keep everything saturated in motor oil. I keep a coffee can full of fresh oil next to me, and dip the injector into the oil, dip the O-ring into the oil, and slide the O-ring onto the injector. Once you've got all of the O-rings on the injector, let the injector sit idle for at least 15 minutes, to allow the O-rings to shrink back to their original size. (Stretching them slightly is necessary to get them on, but this step is important.) Suction out as much as possible from inside the combustion chamber. I needed to use some air line from an aquarium to get down the small holes in the head where the injector goes, so plan ahead in getting supplies for this step. It's important to get all the fluid out of the combustion chamber before reinstalling the injector and glow plug, so be careful with this step. When reinstalling an injector, make sure you've got the brass washer on the end of the injector, saturate the injector in motor oil, and install in the head. Torque the hold down bolt at the bottom edge of the injector to 110 in/lb.
Another way to get the fluid out of the cylinder, and it's entirely up to you, is to reinstall the injector, but leave the glow plug out for now. Once all the injectors for one head are installed, and all glow plugs are removed, place the valve cover back in place, holding it there with two or three bolts. Don't worry about the valve cover gasket, you're not going to start the engine, the valve cover is for catching the fluid inside the combustion chamber. Once the valve cover is in place, the injectors are in, and the glow plugs are out, VERY GENTLY bump the starter, similar to getting the distributor cam to the top of a lobe on a gasser. Repeat this bumping of the starter a number of times, until everything is exhausted from the cylinder. I can't stress enough how small these bumps of the starter need to be.
When I did mine, I went down the line replacing O-rings, and left the glow plugs out. Once all injectors were re-installed, I put the valve covers back on for the "bump" of the starter. The I went back in, re-installed the glow plugs, re-installed the allen plugs at the top of each head, and put everything back together. I'm real **** about things, and take longer than I probably need to, and the project was an all day event for me.
I hope this helps.
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  #3  
Old 01-01-2004, 11:15 AM
F0rdF0rever F0rdF0rever is offline
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thank you very much Quadzilla. I will wait till have an entire day to attempt this. Am I damaging the engine in any way by putting this off?
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  #4  
Old 01-01-2004, 11:43 AM
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Not if you're doing the O-rings as preventive maintenance. If you're doing them because of an O-ring failure, I wouldn't drive the truck until it's done. If you had an O-ring fail, you'd be spewing white smoke like a freight train, and you'd definitely know about it.
If you need part numbers for the O-rings, let me know. Definitely buy them from an International dealer. They'll cost you about $9 per injector there, about twice that at Ford.
I can't post my email address, but if you want to call me, my cell number is 253-315-1222.
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Old 01-01-2004, 12:28 PM
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Fuel Injector Removal

Disconnect the battery ground cables.

WARNING: RED-STRIPED WIRE HARNESS CARRIES 115V DC. SEVERE ELECTRICAL SHOCK MAY BE RECEIVED. DO NOT PIERCE.

CAUTION: Do not attempt to service the fuel injector. The fuel injector is serviced as an assembly. If the fuel injector is disassembled for any reason, the calibration of the fuel injector will be inaccurate. There are two different fuel injectors used in the 7.3L DI turbo diesel engine: a 49-state injector and the California injector (rate shaped injector). These two injectors must not be interchanged because the Powertrain Control Modules are calibrated to the specific injector. Before replacing any injectors, refer to the Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) decal for proper injector selection. Failure to do so can cause poor engine performance, high emissions levels or damage to engine.

Remove the engine cover.

Remove the two (2) nuts retaining the air cleaner-outlet tube support bracket to the left valve cover. Remove the engine harness bracket from the air cleaner-outlet tube support bracket and position aside.

Remove and discard the crankcase ventilation hose clamp and disconnect the hose. Loosen the clamps at the turbocharger and air cleaner and disconnect the intake duct and outlet tube.

Remove the bolt and nut retaining the air cleaner assembly, disconnect the air intake sensor and remove the air cleaner assembly.

CAUTION: Do not pierce engine electrical wires or damage to the harness can occur.

Remove the engine harness tie strap from the left engine-lifting bracket.

Remove the two (2) crankcase breather filter retaining screws and remove the crankcase breather filter from the left valve cover.

Remove the left valve cover.

Disconnect the electrical connectors from the left valve cover gasket. Remove the valve cover gasket.

Disconnect the electrical connectors from the left fuel injectors and the glow plugs.

Drain the oil from the left cylinder head by removing the internal oil rail drain plugs.

Remove the left oil deflectors.

WARNING: DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT WITH THE FUEL INJECTOR REMOVED. OIL AND FUEL WILL ENTER THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER WHICH COULD CAUSE ENGINE DAMAGE OR PERSONAL INJURY.

NOTE: The shoulder bolt on the inboard side of the fuel injector does not require removal.

Remove the left outboard fuel injector-retaining bolts.

CAUTION: When servicing the fuel injector, it is important that all injector O-rings and the injector tip copper washer are retrieved from the injector bore. Failure to do so can cause severe damage to engine.

Carefully remove the left fuel injectors using Injector Remover T94T-9000-AH1.

Remove the backup rings, cushion rings (black), upper injector seals, middle injector seals, cushion rings (black/green), lower injector seals and injector gasket from each fuel injector.

Install Rotunda Injector Protective Sleeves 014-00933 and position the fuel injector in Rotunda Injector Holding Rack 014-00933.

WARNING: REMOVE OIL AND FUEL FROM CYLINDERS BEFORE REINSTALLING FUEL INJECTORS. FAILURE TO DO SO COULD CAUSE HYDROSTATIC LOCK RESULTING IN SEVERE ENGINE DAMAGE.

Remove all fuel and oil from the left combustion chambers using Rotunda Oil Suction Gun D94T-9000-A.

Disconnect the MAP sensor electrical connector. Remove the nut retaining the MAP sensor bracket to the upper left corner of the A/C evaporator case. Unclip the MAP sensor bracket from the A/C evaporator case and position the MAP sensor aside.

Disconnect the vacuum harness from the A/C vacuum reservoir tank. Remove the A/C evaporator core cover heat shield upper retaining clip and position the shield out of way. Remove the A/C vacuum reservoir tank.

Remove the oil level indicator tube-retaining bracket. Remove the oil level indicator tube support bracket from the right valve cover.

Remove the right valve cover.

Disconnect the electrical connectors from the right valve cover gasket. Remove the valve cover gasket.

Disconnect the electrical connectors from the right fuel injectors and the glow plugs.

Drain the oil from the right cylinder head by removing the internal oil rail drain plugs.

Remove the right oil deflectors.

WARNING: DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT WITH THE FUEL INJECTOR REMOVED. OIL AND FUEL WILL ENTER THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER WHICH COULD CAUSE ENGINE DAMAGE OR PERSONAL INJURY.

NOTE: The shoulder bolt on the inboard side of the fuel injector does not require removal.

Remove the right outboard fuel injector-retaining bolts.

CAUTION: When servicing the fuel injector, it is important that all injector O-rings and the injector tip copper washer are retrieved from the injector bore. Failure to do so can cause severe damage to engine.

Carefully remove the right fuel injectors using Injector Remover T94T-9000-AH1.

Remove the backup rings, cushion rings (black), upper injector seals, middle injector seals, cushion rings (black/green), lower injector seals and injector gasket from each fuel injector.

Install Rotunda Injector Protective Sleeves 014-00933 and position the fuel injector in Rotunda Injector Holding Rack 014-00933.

WARNING: REMOVE OIL AND FUEL FROM CYLINDERS BEFORE REINSTALLING FUEL INJECTORS. FAILURE TO DO SO COULD CAUSE HYDROSTATIC LOCK RESULTING IN SEVERE ENGINE DAMAGE.

Remove all fuel and oil from the right combustion chambers using Rotunda Oil Suction Gun D94T-9000-A.

Clean gasket surfaces.

Installation

Clean the injector bores and sleeves carefully with a clean shop towel. Use Injector Sleeve Brush 014-00934 to make sure that a good seating surface is provided for the fuel injectors.

Use Rotunda Injector Sleeve Brush 014-00934-5 to clean the injector bores of any sealant residue. Make sure to remove any debris.

CAUTION: When installing the fuel injectors into the cylinder head, make sure the copper washer does not shift or fall free from the injector. Failure to do so will cause severe engine damage.

CAUTION: Do not strike top of fuel injector to seat the fuel injector in the bore. Damage to fuel injector will occur. Use hand pressure on top of fuel injector until the fuel injector hold-down plate is positioned under head of shoulder bolt.

NOTE: Apply a thin coat of High-Temperature 4x4 Front Axle and Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A to the copper washer to hold it in place during fuel injector installation.

Lubricate the fuel injector and O-rings liberally with clean engine oil. Remove the fuel injectors from the holding rack and remove the protective sleeves. Install new backup rings, cushion rings (black), upper injector seals, middle injector seals, cushion rings (black/green), lower injector seals and injector copper gasket onto each fuel injector.

Item Part Number Description
1 Steel Backup Ring (Part of 9F593)
2 Black Cushion Ring (Part of 9F593)
3 Black Upper Injector Seal (Part of 9F593)
4 White Middle Injector Seal (Part of 9F593)
5 Black/Green Cushion Ring (Part of 9F593)
6 Black Lower Injector Seal (Part of 9F593)
7 Copper Injector Gasket (Part of 9F593)
8 9F593 Fuel Injector

Carefully install the right fuel injectors using Injector Replacer T94T-9000-AH2.

Install the right outboard injector retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 14 Nm (10 lb-ft).

Install the right oil deflectors. Tighten the bolts to 14 Nm (10 lb-ft).

NOTE: Inspect the oil rail drain plug O-rings for damage, replace if necessary. Lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil, prior to assembly.

Install the right oil rail drain plugs. Tighten the plugs to 6 Nm (53 lb-in).

Connect the right electrical connectors to the fuel injectors and the glow plugs.

NOTE: Inspect the right valve cover gasket for damage, replace if necessary.

Install the right valve cover gasket and connect the electrical connectors.

Install the right valve cover. Tighten the bolts to 11 Nm (8 lb-ft).

Install the oil level indicator tube support bracket to the right valve cover. Tighten the nuts to 11 Nm (8 lb-ft). Install the oil level indicator tube-retaining bracket. Tighten the bolt securely.

Install the A/C vacuum reservoir tank and securely tighten the retaining screws. Reposition the A/C evaporator core cover heat shield and install the retaining clip. Connect the vacuum harness to the A/C vacuum reservoir tank.
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Old 01-01-2004, 12:28 PM
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Clip the MAP sensor bracket to the A/C evaporator case. Install the MAP sensor bracket-retaining nut. Tighten nut to 5 Nm (44 lb-in). Connect the MAP sensor electrical connector.

CAUTION: When installing fuel injectors into the cylinder head, make sure the copper washer does not shift or fall free from the injector. Failure to do so will cause severe engine damage.

CAUTION: Do not strike top of fuel injector to seat the fuel injector in the bore. Damage to fuel injector will occur. Use hand pressure on top of fuel injector until the fuel injector hold-down plate is positioned under head of shoulder bolt.

NOTE: Apply a thin coat of High-Temperature 4x4 Front Axle and Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A to the copper washer to hold it in place during fuel injector installation.

Lubricate the fuel injector and O-rings liberally with clean engine oil. Remove the fuel injectors from the holding rack and remove the protective sleeves. Install new backup rings, cushion rings (black), upper injector seals, middle injector seals, cushion rings (black/green), lower injector seals and injector gasket onto each fuel injector.

Carefully install the left fuel injectors using Injector Replacer T94T-9000-AH2.

Install the left outboard injector retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 14 Nm (10 lb-ft).

Install the left oil deflectors. Tighten the bolts to 14 Nm (10 lb-ft).

NOTE: Inspect the oil rail drain plug O-rings for damage, replace if necessary. Lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil, prior to assembly.

Install the left oil rail drain plugs. Tighten the plugs to 6 Nm (53 lb-in).

Connect the left electrical connectors to the fuel injectors and the glow plugs.

NOTE: Inspect the left valve cover gasket for damage, replace if necessary.

Install the left valve cover gasket and connect the electrical connectors.

Install the left valve cover. Tighten the bolts to 11 Nm (8 lb-ft).

NOTE: Inspect the crankcase breather gaskets and O-rings for damage, replace if necessary. Lubricate the O-rings with clean oil, prior to assembly.

Install the crankcase breather assembly to the left valve cover. Tighten the retaining screws to 4 Nm (36 lb-in).

Secure the engine harness to the left engine-lifting bracket with a tie strap.

Position the air cleaner assembly and connect the air intake sensor. Install the bolt and nut retaining the air cleaner assembly. Tighten the bolt to 8 Nm (71 lb-in). Tighten the nut to 6 Nm (53 lb-in).

Position the air cleaner outlet tube support bracket to the left valve cover. Connect the crankcase ventilation hose and intake duct and tighten clamps securely.

Install the engine harness bracket to the air cleaner outlet tube support bracket. Install two (2) retaining nuts. Tighten nuts to 11 Nm (8 lb-ft).

Install the engine cover. Tighten the nuts securely.

NOTE: When the battery is disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the vehicle relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 mi.) or more to relearn the strategy.

Connect the battery ground cables.
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Old 01-01-2004, 01:36 PM
F0rdF0rever F0rdF0rever is offline
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The reason why I was going replace the orings was because im losing approxamitly two quarts of oil evey one thousand miles. There is no sign of oil anywhere underneath the engine or even on the ground where I park it. Like I said, it a 95 with 172000 miles on it. Last oil change I switched to rotella t synthetic 15w 40. And ever scince then I started seeing an oil lose. But Quadzilla, you said that if I lost an o ring I would be bellowing out white smoke, which I am not. Maybe a some light blue at start up but only for about 2 or 3 minutes. So now my question is where else could the oil be going? Could the motor just be burning it up? Two quarts evey thousand miles seems like an awful lot of oil.
thanks for the help, its really appreciated.
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Old 01-01-2004, 02:33 PM
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f250juggernaut
alanscott

How did you get the service c/d text into your post? Mine won't let me copy/paste the text off the c/d.

You didn't retype all that did you?

FOrdForever

There are three o-rings on the injectors, so you may not be losing oil straight into the combustion chamber, it may be getting into the fuel system.
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Old 01-01-2004, 02:52 PM
F0rdF0rever F0rdF0rever is offline
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Is it dangerous to my truck to be driving it like this?
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Old 01-01-2004, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by cookie88
alanscott

You didn't retype all that did you?


I'm dedicated.




Actually, someone sent it to me in e-mail a few years ago, seemed like a good time to re-post it.
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Old 01-01-2004, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by F0rdF0rever
Is it dangerous to my truck to be driving it like this?
You said it started losing oil after switching to synthetic? I'd go back to dino on the next oil change and monitor the oil loss.
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Old 01-01-2004, 04:54 PM
F0rdF0rever F0rdF0rever is offline
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I will alanscott, thanks.
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Old 01-01-2004, 05:44 PM
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As was stated earlier, the O-rings serve the purpose of keeping three different vital fluids separate: oil, coolant, and fuel. My experience has been in having the bottom ring fail, which dumps excessive fuel into the cylinder, which then goes out the exhaust pipe in the form of steam, which looks like white smoke. A good point has been made though. That isn't necessarily the one that might have failed on your truck. If the one separating the oil from the fuel were to fail, you could get oil into your fuel, and burn it off that way.
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Old 01-01-2004, 06:47 PM
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To: Quadzilla
Quote:
If the one separating the oil from the fuel were to fail, you could get oil into your fuel, and burn it off that way..
Very good analysis..we continue to learn...
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Last edited by "Luke" SdeS; 01-01-2004 at 06:53 PM.
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Old 01-01-2004, 09:37 PM
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yep, check your tank for oil contamination. If no oil is present, switch back to regualr oil and monitor oil usage.
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Old 01-01-2004, 09:37 PM
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