EGT Gauges and A-pillar gauge pods - Q&A
#1
EGT Gauges and A-pillar gauge pods - Q&A
I want to do a few mods to my truck, and will start by adding some useful instrumentation. Nearly any performance modification will effect temperature in some way, and the gauges will keep me informed. I plan on adding AutoMeter gauges- EGT, Boost, and Volt. I have oil pres, oil temp and trans temp on the factory panel, so that's why the volt meter will be #3 in a 3-gauge pod. What I'm looking for is some input from those who have added A-pillar pods, your experience with installation, fit, sensor location, lighting, etc. Future mods I am interested in are a cat-back exhaust, less-restrictive intake filter and box, and performance computer module. I only tow a MasterCraft tow boat, so I'll admit I'm just a power junkie (I do live at 6500 feet ASL).
Since I'm a new user, I can't search the forums for this information.
1: If you have installed an A-pillar cluster, what brand did you use, where did you get it, and how happy are you with the fit and interior color match?
2: If you installed an EGT gauge, is the sensor pre- or post- turbo? I hear that the exhaust manifold on the left rear side is the best location- agree or disagree? Any installation tips?
3: How is the factory lighting level on the new gauges compared to your Ford instrument cluster? Do you have black or white faced gauges, and would you recommend one or the other?
Thanks for your input- it’s always better to take advantage of experience when it is available!
Since I'm a new user, I can't search the forums for this information.
1: If you have installed an A-pillar cluster, what brand did you use, where did you get it, and how happy are you with the fit and interior color match?
2: If you installed an EGT gauge, is the sensor pre- or post- turbo? I hear that the exhaust manifold on the left rear side is the best location- agree or disagree? Any installation tips?
3: How is the factory lighting level on the new gauges compared to your Ford instrument cluster? Do you have black or white faced gauges, and would you recommend one or the other?
Thanks for your input- it’s always better to take advantage of experience when it is available!
#2
I am running all three gauges, had them installed.
I would NOT do any mods until you get gauges.
I am running all Banks stuff; it works and is good quality
The lighting they come with is good; I painted the bulbs green to match the dash. EGT gauge is the dimmest by design; it has a rather large set of components inside the housing, which does not allow as much light past as the other two gauges. So result is a bit dimmer, but very acceptable.
I would NOT do any mods until you get gauges.
I am running all Banks stuff; it works and is good quality
The lighting they come with is good; I painted the bulbs green to match the dash. EGT gauge is the dimmest by design; it has a rather large set of components inside the housing, which does not allow as much light past as the other two gauges. So result is a bit dimmer, but very acceptable.
#4
#5
I had the Autometer 2 guage A pillar pod on my 1999 PSD. I haven't done anything to the 03 yet.
I'd suggest the pyro sesnor be before the turbo. Mine wasn't and I was never certain if the temp reading was correct. They say a post turbo install can read 300 degrees cooler than pre turbo install. The pre turbo gives a more accurate temp.
I would also suggest a trans temp guage if you do any serious towing or hauling. The factory trans temp guage is like an idiot light. By the time it moves off the nornal setting, the damage has been done. Once mine reaches normal operating temp, I have never seen it move. I know towing a 9000# trailer trailer up a mountain has to increase the trans temp.
I'd suggest the pyro sesnor be before the turbo. Mine wasn't and I was never certain if the temp reading was correct. They say a post turbo install can read 300 degrees cooler than pre turbo install. The pre turbo gives a more accurate temp.
I would also suggest a trans temp guage if you do any serious towing or hauling. The factory trans temp guage is like an idiot light. By the time it moves off the nornal setting, the damage has been done. Once mine reaches normal operating temp, I have never seen it move. I know towing a 9000# trailer trailer up a mountain has to increase the trans temp.
#6
Originally posted by King Ranch
I got my gauges from porta diesel with the black gauges the lights are green they match the factory one to a tee. Look at my gallery for pictures. I put the pyro in the manifold it wasn't that bad to do.The a pod looks so good everyone ask me if it was a factory option.
I got my gauges from porta diesel with the black gauges the lights are green they match the factory one to a tee. Look at my gallery for pictures. I put the pyro in the manifold it wasn't that bad to do.The a pod looks so good everyone ask me if it was a factory option.
#7
Trending Topics
#9
TEK,
I have the DI-Pricol gauges and am very happy with the performance and the look. they Make the western Diesel and the Banks, They match the factory gauges better than any I Have seen to date.
One recommendation I have is when installing the pod is to use small rivets inplace of the pishpins this will allow a tighter fit and
will hide the rivets under the rubber seal, makes a much cleaner install. I also installed the Turbo fitting in the MAP line rather than tapping into the turbo outlet. I agree with you on not getting the trans gauge it is just as useless as the one that is installed unless you want to install the sender right into the pan, I have done a lot of checking into this and the port that the sender is installed into is just a dead end pressure tap and causes slow response on the installed gauge. I will be installing
my sender into a the pan as soon as one is available on the market. Or I will have a Boss installed in my stock pan.
Good luck It is easier than it sounds to install them.
Pat
I have the DI-Pricol gauges and am very happy with the performance and the look. they Make the western Diesel and the Banks, They match the factory gauges better than any I Have seen to date.
One recommendation I have is when installing the pod is to use small rivets inplace of the pishpins this will allow a tighter fit and
will hide the rivets under the rubber seal, makes a much cleaner install. I also installed the Turbo fitting in the MAP line rather than tapping into the turbo outlet. I agree with you on not getting the trans gauge it is just as useless as the one that is installed unless you want to install the sender right into the pan, I have done a lot of checking into this and the port that the sender is installed into is just a dead end pressure tap and causes slow response on the installed gauge. I will be installing
my sender into a the pan as soon as one is available on the market. Or I will have a Boss installed in my stock pan.
Good luck It is easier than it sounds to install them.
Pat
#10
#12
#13
Originally posted by King Ranch
Tim have you been drinking?----- Don't really understand what your saying.
Tim have you been drinking?----- Don't really understand what your saying.
The reason I am looking for some green lights that are not as bright......as you buy aftermarket.
In my attempt to use the English language,………..I screwed this one up.
The reason I am looking for some lights other, than the ones that you can buy aftermarket, like at Radio Shack…………aftermarket are different wattages, resulting in higher heat in the back of the gauge. I actually had a post a bit ago about melting the back of the EGT gauge. Clueless what the problem was. Do not want to create anymore problems for myself.
So the question at this time…… your original lights in your gauges came with green lights, can you buy the same ones that came in your gauges. Or on the other hand, will they say just go aftermarket and find some?
No drinking just not thinking when I typed the first one. Fingers are faster than the brain, and that is scary. Means my fingers are speaking for me…………..hum..
#14
Tekrep:
Other posts respond to gauges. I used a quad pod: Isspro for EGR, boost; Westtach for tranny/diff temp and oil pressure/H20 temp. Appearance is close enough. Light bulbs have green covers. The combo gauges lighting is dimmer but being at the top of the pod that is a plus. I tied all gauge lights into the Ford rheostat just behind the light switch. Leave at least 30" tails on the pod wireing so connections can be reached under the dash. (Sorry couldn't resist adding my $.02 worth.
Install tips: #1 Pull the door gasket away from the area where it overlaps the A pillar cover BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE. #2 remove the 4 bolts in the grab handle and remove the cover. #3 Remove the two Phillips screws that hold the grab handle to the cover. #4 Fish all wires through the opening made available when the Apillar cover was removed. Doing things in this sequence will save hours on the install. Follow directions supplied with the pod and gauges.
Pyro was installed @ rear of driver's side exhaust maniford. Mine was 1/4 NPT and required 7/16 drill. That big a hole was a little scary. A mechanics magnet fit into the hole and was used to remove metal chips. The boost will tap into the aluminum intercooler tube. My MAP (?) sensor line on the '04 is metal not rubber as on earlier models. MagHytech diff cover has a probe for the port. Tranny probe used the port discussed in other replies. I will get a MagHytech tranny cover when available in Feb. or March. Oil pressure will plumb into the sender in the valley and I haven't figured out where to tap into the cooling system yet.
CLPF350
Other posts respond to gauges. I used a quad pod: Isspro for EGR, boost; Westtach for tranny/diff temp and oil pressure/H20 temp. Appearance is close enough. Light bulbs have green covers. The combo gauges lighting is dimmer but being at the top of the pod that is a plus. I tied all gauge lights into the Ford rheostat just behind the light switch. Leave at least 30" tails on the pod wireing so connections can be reached under the dash. (Sorry couldn't resist adding my $.02 worth.
Install tips: #1 Pull the door gasket away from the area where it overlaps the A pillar cover BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE. #2 remove the 4 bolts in the grab handle and remove the cover. #3 Remove the two Phillips screws that hold the grab handle to the cover. #4 Fish all wires through the opening made available when the Apillar cover was removed. Doing things in this sequence will save hours on the install. Follow directions supplied with the pod and gauges.
Pyro was installed @ rear of driver's side exhaust maniford. Mine was 1/4 NPT and required 7/16 drill. That big a hole was a little scary. A mechanics magnet fit into the hole and was used to remove metal chips. The boost will tap into the aluminum intercooler tube. My MAP (?) sensor line on the '04 is metal not rubber as on earlier models. MagHytech diff cover has a probe for the port. Tranny probe used the port discussed in other replies. I will get a MagHytech tranny cover when available in Feb. or March. Oil pressure will plumb into the sender in the valley and I haven't figured out where to tap into the cooling system yet.
CLPF350