Does anyone have JBA headers on there trucks, and if you do then.....

darthcasp · #1 (**permalink**) 12-21-2003, 12:10 AM

I just put JBA headers on my Mazda B-3000 4x4. I was just wondering if anyone else who has them on there truck have any cabin noise from them. Like can you hear the headers from inside the cab? The only reason I am concerned is because I want to make sure I put them on correctly and I dont have any leaks off the heads.
~Jason~

darthcasp · #2 (**permalink**) 12-21-2003, 05:14 PM

Anyone at all?

Dealford · #3 (**permalink**) 12-21-2003, 06:17 PM

When you focus on the sound of tube headers, you can almost hear each cylinder fire.
Hopefully you didn't over-torque the header bolts causing the flanges to distort.
If all that you're hearing is a more distinct sound of each cylinder firing, not clearly one exhaust "ticking" noise, then don't sweat it.

rangersvt04 · #4 (**permalink**) 12-21-2003, 11:05 PM

how much preformance increace have you noticed? i am think of buying a set for my ranger but want some info on them. like how much more hp and tq am i going to get? and how hard/long it took to install.

darthcasp · #5 (**permalink**) 12-22-2003, 01:27 AM

In response to rangersvt04's question,

Since I just finished installing my new headers yesterday I decided I would do a little review on them while my memories/pains are still fresh.
As far as price goes the entire header package goes for about 350-375 bucks. You get about 15 extra horses and the same for torque. Which isnt bad that seems like a good gain to me. It comes with a really nice set of gaskets and all the bolts you need. If you have a truck with the EGR then the header has a fitting as well. However the intructions that come with it make it sound way more easy then it is. Its not specific at all. So here is how I did it from step one.
*As a note, be somewhere where there a lot of tools, and big tools, the instructions say only simple hand tools are needed and they are feeding you a line of crap*
First things first, Unless your truck is brand spanking new you are not going to be able to break the bolts free from the header to the y-pipe, they wont even snap (trust me). And you cannot cut them with a torch because the drivers side header's flange has the inside bolt snug with the block rendering it untouchable. To save yourself a whole lot of time and pain just go buy a new y-pipe ($158) and cut it out with a sawzall. If you dont want to do that then good luck but here is how I did it.
When your ready to begin, warm the truck up for a few minutes and then shut it off, you dont want it hot you just want it a little warm. It is easier to do this job with the front tires off but I was able to manage with them on, its your choice. Then use the best penatrating spray you can find ( I used Justice Brothers) and soak every bolt as best you can. While you are letting that soak, remove both O-2 sensors out of the y-pipe by disconnecting them and using a 7/8 wrench. Then get down by where the y-pipe connects with the catalytic converters. and spray those bolts good. Then start with the sawzall and cut the y-pipe just before the cats, now you have the easiest access without accidently snapping the bolts on the cats. It is CRITICLE you do not snap these bolts because they are pressed in and it will take much more time to replace if you do.
Then you can make another cut on the drivers side y-pipe as high up as you can reach. Pull that out of there and also whats left of the flange attached to the cats. the passenger side can stay, there is enough room to pull it out from the bottom.
Now from the top you will have to remove your EGR unit off the manifold and out of your truck. To do this you must twist the EGR air tube out off the threading in the manifold. If you are lucky, the threaded tube will stay inside the manifold. other wise that fitting that is stuck has to twist out so it can screw on to the new EGR fitting. Pull that entire unit out. There are 2 small tubes on the EGR that run up to a sensor, pull them off and then unbolt the EGR out of the truck. Now you can remove the header bolts off the manifold and pull the manifold through the bottom. (the dipstick must be removed, it just twist counterclock wise and pulls out)
The passenger side is a piece of cake. and pulling the manifold out is a breeze compared to the other side. You basically do the same as the drivers side without all the mess, theres a lot more room to work.
When putting your new headers all back in however they are a little tricky and you have to remove your oil filter to get at the bolts to tighten them. They recommend to torque the bolts to 13 foot/pounds but thats funny because you cant fit anything on the bolts except a standard wrench due to the pipe chambers, how did they do it? The drivers side old header comes out from the bottom. Your new one can only come in from the top. Because of its size.
Once you got your new headers on and tightened you can put the EGR back in place, screw it on to the new header and bolt it back into the motor. Then install your new y-pipe and make sure all your gaskets are tight. then you can start it up and check for leaks.
Took about 11 hours from start to finish, if I would have known what to get before then it would have been faster.
So all in all It takes long, but is much shorter if you cut the y-pipe itself then trying to unbolt it. And taking out the EGR then trying to work around it is easier to, as well as removing the oil filter. Other then that it wasnt to bad and you can REALLY notice a difference. throttle response, low end torque, much more airflow, cool sound, you get more pinging though so higher octane fuel might be required. Hope this helps you guys who are thinking about it.

darthcasp · #6 (**permalink**) 12-22-2003, 01:29 AM

I just posted a review on it all if you want to read it. It might help you out a little. Cause the instructions I got didnt. heh