I have posted about this continuing problem before and got some really good responses, but still have the problem. This ranger has the dual plug 2.3 engine with manual trans.

I had some major fuel supply problems which turned out to be a bad fuel pump and some faulty wiring to the inertia switch and a missing fuel relay. Some one was "fixing" the truck before I purchased it. After repairing all fuel problems and getting 40 psi to the fuel rail, the truck will start after some craking and idle for 10-20 seconds and then stall. If I push the gas pedal, it stalls immediately. The cam sensor was the only code that showed up with the KOEO scan so I replaced it with no results. The plugs are black and wet meaning too much fuel. The timing is ok.

Could the IAC sensor be causing me the grief?

Could the Mass Air Flow sensor?

How about the temperature sensor on the water neck?

I am looking for some good advice.

Check out the truck on my gallery. It has serious potential. It is very custom, but doesn't run. HELP!!

 

There are more/other tests that you can do. Did you test the fuel pressure regulator for pressure drop & vacuum supply?

 

It sounds like the diaphram in the fuel pressure regulator could be bad. Pull the vacuum line off of it, and check for raw gasoline.
Replace the fuel pressure regulator if you find gas.

 

Did you actually replace the fuel pump? I thought that thing was sealed in the gas tank and essentially irreplaceable. Am I wrong about the location and ease of changing a modern fuel pump?

 

I have replaced the fuel pressure regulator as part of the fuel system repair. The vacuum is ok and there is no sign of gas in the vacuum line.

The fuel pump is not sealed in the tank. This truck has a mustang gas tank custom mounted between the frame rails in the rear instead of being along the frame like the stock unit. The pump was the original pump in the truck and the pickup tube was shortened to accomodate the new mustang tank.

I think the reason that the original pump was bad was that the "mechanic" that worked on the truck in the past hot wired the pump so that it would continuously instead of using the fuel relay to control it. It would not hold pressure at the fuel rail.

It appears that there is too much fuel getting to the cylinders and I don't know why.

Does any one know when the coils should fire? There is a dual coil set-up on this vehicle. How can I tell if the coils are ok??

When the truck stalls, there is still 40 - 45 psi fuel pressure at the fuel rail.

I appreciate all the help from you guys.

 

Dealford,

You said that there are different tests that could be done. Can you explain further. What tests should I do??

Thanks for the help!!

 

If the regulator checks out and there are no codes present then prehaps the injectors are leaking? Try another fuel pressure test, but this time, leave the tester on and watch for pressure loss.
Test the injectors for 12-16 OHMs also.
Are all of the plugs wet?

 

All of the plugs are wet.

I will check the pressure for leaks again and get back to you.

I have already checked the resistance and they were all 13.5-13.6 ohms.

Thanks for the advice

 

I'd recommend buying an Autotap. It will likely point you to the problem, and prevent a lot of the guess work.

 

I have re-checked the fuel pressure at the rail and it holds steady.

I found a posting on the, performance, engines and troubleshooting under 4-Bangers that sounds like the problem that I am having. The posing is on page 2 under DIS problems

Surfmeister2000 had a very similar problem after a cam upgrade and such. My truck has had many modifications and I wonder if there is something in common. He indicated that he fixed his problem by performing the "wiggle test" on the relays in the control box. He found that the coils were not firing due to a gound pulse that was not there until he "wiggled" the EEC relay and suddenly there was the pulse. The truck started as was running fine after that.

I will try this later today and hope my luck is as good.

Has anyone had a similar problem????

My next option may be the Autotap hardware that Bob Cosby has recommended.

It is pricey and I am hoping for an easy fix if there is such a thing?!?!

 

Slammed96, I am wondering if the computer is TELLING the fuel injection system to go way too rich (failed O2 sensor, dirty or failed MAF, an exhaust manifold gasket leaking???). I don't know if it is possible for an engine to go THAT RICH from bad sensors, but it's a thought. Also, I'm wondering if your EGR valve is WIDE OPEN ... Not likely, but one more thing you could rule out. I'm curious ... can't wait to find out what the heck it is.

 

Well, the "wiggle" test had no effect. Still looking

I have a MAF sensor coming in tomorrow for a trial test. I have made arrangements to "try before I buy". That should save me $100 if it is not the problem.

I did price a re-built 302 today and am seriously considering a swap. I have been thinking about this for a while and my patients are running out on the 4-banger.

Ford garage will charge $82 for a "scan" and then $70/hr for any mechanical work. May be worth it for $82 to save alot of aggrevation? Would have to rent a trailer to move to garage; local tow services will not tow due to it being in the weeds.

 

Some of the best money I have spent was for diagnostic scans.

 

I have stumbled on another part of the puzzle.

I was messing around with my truck today trying to get it to run long enough to scan any other codes. The only way that I could keep it running was to hold the gas pedal to the floor and it would rev, cut-out, and rev again while popping through the exhaust. I was not able to get any codes while running.

I decided to unplug the MAF sensor and try again. The truck seems to be getting too much fuel.

With the MAF sensor unplugged, the !@#$% thing idles and will rev up although it is not as smooth as you would like, it RUNS!!!

Can anyone tell me if this indicates a bad MAF sensor or is it just another wild goose chase??

 

I would say yes but not 100%, with it unpluged the PCM is in fault mode.