Hello
I have a 1992 2-door ford explorer with a 4-liter. This year I tried to engage the 4 wheel drive and all that happens is I here a clicking sound in the compartment where the jack and tire iron are stored. I have owned this truck since new and it worked fine last winter. Anyone have any suggestions or do I bite the bullet and bring it to a Ford dealer to be reapaired? Thanks

Ron

 

Any help?

 

Exactly in that location is located the transfer case shift motor electronic control module (ECM). Try to do following:

Quote from ALLDATA:
''
The Electronic Control Module (ECM) has a diagnostic capability of its internal circurity. Self test procedure is as follows:
1. Remove the Five-Wire Connector and the Eight Wire Connector from the ECM.
2. Turn ingnition switch to the RUN postion
3. Activate the system self-test by pressing and releasing the self-test switch. Note the results as indicated by the indicator light:

NOTE: The self test switch and indicator light are located on the ECM.

a. A FLASHING Indicator Lamp, (approximately one flash per second) indicates that the ECM is functioning properly.

b. A STEADY Indicator Light indicates that the ECM is inoperative and must be replaced.
''
Unquote.

With best regards,
Yuri

 

Thanks Jet Lizard, I will give it a go.

 

this site will tell you how to fix and diagnose the problem

http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/web/pages/tcase.html

 

Thanks, for the info. Between you and JetLizard I already have it fixed, it was the transfer case actuater motor. Thanks again.

 

Thanks, for the info. Between you and JetLizard I already have it fixed, it was the transfer case actuater motor. Thanks again.

 

tested the module with this procedure and it flashed, but when i hook up everything and push the buttons nothing happens, not any click or anything, by the way my truck is stuck in 4 low and got the tranfer case motor out, tested it and its ok, no fusses blown, does anyone have a wiring diagram to try and bypass the switches to see if something happes? hope someone could help

 

Well, I cannot help you much right now as I have complete wiring diagrams (as well as anything else including ALLDATA CDs) at home computer. But once you have T-case shift motor dismounted, you may at least switch the transfer case to 2H position. This will allow you to drive your truck as usual 2WD.

Just look at the shaft that normally is being rotated by shift motor. Around it should be marks: 4L-4H-2H. Just rotate it towards 2H, but make sure that transmission lever is in N (Neutral) position (not P (Park) !). Or if you have manual transmission, clutch pedal should be pressed (not sure about manual tranny, though).

Also, I've been told that engine should be idling, and assistant should press brake pedal while you're rotating the shaft. Not sure if this step is necessary, but it won't hurt, right?

With best regards,
Yuri

P.S. My Explorer is only 2WD right now, there's something wrong with transfer case shift motor, but I am not concerned about it. Just operating the vehicle as if it alsways been rear-wheel-drive.

 

wow, you're in russia, i bet its hard to get parts, i live in mexico and have problem to get parts, the thing is i bought the truck just for offroading not as daily driver, its a 92 bronco, but about two weeks ago it stuck in 4low, theres some information on the transfer case motor, i bet you have seen it, but i will send the link to you, https://www.ford-trucks.com/framered...es/tcase.html, i think with the wiring diagram i can fix the problem, thnks for your help

 

You are avoiding reality. Take the shift motor assembly out and clean it. There is no electrical evil here, just dried up grease. First time I took mine apart there were these chunks I thought were nylon gear. It was chunks of dried up grease that turned to powder when crushed. Another thing I learned is that the bearings dry out and just a littl oil won't fix it. Remove the contact gear so that the the motor can run continiously. Tranny fluid works good to free it up. Run motor in with a brake light in series with the motor. Motor should easily work at less than one amp. The lamp will prove this. I cleaned the motor and it started out drawing over 4 1/2 amps. After 30 minutes of run in, it dropped to less than 3/4 amp. Electronics goes into current limit and shuts down at higher currents.