tell me about bronco II's - Page 2

IB Tim · #16 (**permalink**) 12-11-2003, 10:41 PM

Would love to know if there is any easy mods to bring a bit more HP to the little monster

blkbeast · #17 (**permalink**) 12-11-2003, 10:57 PM

my mother has a '90 eddie bauer b2 that she loves. it's a 2.9 with a4ld pushbutton transcase and auto hubs. about a month and a half ago i put in it's 3rd engine in 160,000. the original owner had installed a reman at around 70,000. i have an 84 ranger with a 2.3 4 cyl that has way more power than any 2.9 i've ever experienced. the tranny in hers slips and doesn't want to shift into od when cold, but has been like that for the last 3 or 4 years and may last another 3 or 4 but i doubt it. the auto hubs seem to stick and not want to disengage even after having the entire front end apart and cleaning and regreasing everything they still don't want to unlock on some occasions. if i was in the market for a b2 i'd opt for a 2.3 with a 5 speed and manual case and hubs but that's just my personal opinion from my experience.

IB Tim · #18 (**permalink**) 12-11-2003, 11:01 PM

You say the 2.3 is a bit more powerfull than the 2.9

pat67shorty · #19 (**permalink**) 12-11-2003, 11:24 PM

Well, let's clear some more up. The A4LD is not used in fullsize trucks. 1/2 tons got the AOD/AODE/4R70W, and the heavy trucks got the E4OD/4R100.

The 2.3 gas 4 was never available in the Bronco II. The only 4 offered in the B II was the 2.3 Diesel.

Most problems people have with the 2.8 rigs is the abortion of a computer controlled ignition and induction system they have. Feedback carbs are a joke. Remove the computer for duraspark ignition and a regular carb, and they are a great motor.

knucklehead11 · #20 (**permalink**) 12-11-2003, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fordman088
And as for the German who designed the 2.9 did his homework.

Agreed. My engine has 332,000 miles on it right now. Over the summer I screwed up the engine for a dumb reason: I accidentally left the pressure cap off of the radiator one morning before work when I was filling it up with water before leaving. Overheated BAD later on that day. Cracked the head(s) and/or blew the head gasket(s). Never knew what. We used this crap called K&W Block Seal. It says it's a permanent fix, and even my neighbor stood by it being a permanent fix. Unfortunately in my experience it's only been a temporary engine band-aid. Now, if I had the time and money to replace the head(s) and/or head gasket(s), I'd do it, and the engine would still be great. I unfortunately don't have the time or the money to do it, being that I'm only 17 y/o, and, being a teenager, can't get that great of a job yet, much less u gotta work a lot to get decent money with the measley wages we get. Being that, I just bought me a new car yesterday: 1991 Honda Accord. I loved that BII, but with the problems with the water-to-oil leaks (we just ghetto fixed the THIRD leak with that K&W stuff yesterday), I can't afford to keep it any longer. I still have it, but it's for sale, and sitting in the driveway waiting for its next owner to come buy it and take it. I'll be glad to have a more reliable vehicle when I get my car Friday or Saturday, though. Bye bye little 1987 Ford Turdster.... many memories with that truck (not to mention it was my first vehicle).

Sorry for the giant "parting with my truck rant." In one sentence: I AGREE with Fordman, the 2.9 is a great motor...

IB Tim · #21 (**permalink**) 12-12-2003, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by pat67shorty
Well, let's clear some more up. The A4LD is not used in fullsize trucks. 1/2 tons got the AOD/AODE/4R70W, and the heavy trucks got the E4OD/4R100.

The 2.3 gas 4 was never available in the Bronco II. The only 4 offered in the B II was the 2.3 Diesel.

Most problems people have with the 2.8 rigs is the abortion of a computer controlled ignition and induction system they have. Feedback carbs are a joke. Remove the computer for duraspark ignition and a regular carb, and they are a great motor.

OK mine is the 2.9 fuel ing.

is it any good

TheHitMan · #22 (**permalink**) 12-12-2003, 11:00 AM

actually, block seal is pretty good.

theres actually something BETTER.

i cant remember exactly that its caled. they sell it in the pharmacy. ive always known it as "egg keep". its the same ingredience that is in the blovk seal stuff, but a WHOLE LOT STRONGER, AND HIGHER CONCENTRATED. it comes in a clear quart and a half size jar. if you have problems with the block seal stuff not working and being perminant, go to your local pharmacy and tell the dr. you want a big kar of "egg keep" he will know exactly what your talking about. he will probably even ask you if your going to seal a motor block with it.

the first time i used it, i had a big block chevy el camino. the block had froze, and it had a crack in it actually large enough that water would run out of it as fast as you put it in as the engine warmed up. i filled the motor up and let it get to operating temp. i poared the jar of stuff in the radiator and watched amazed as it actually sealed up before my eyes. i mean it was like someone turned a water faucet off. after letting it run for about 10 min. in the motor, i drained the water out ( the dr at the pharmact said to do this or i would be sorry in the long run). he also told me to let the engine sit after draining it until it got completely cold again ( i let it sit overnight)

well, to make a long story short, i drove the elco for another 2 FULL YEARS ( YES, TWO (2) YEARS!) before getting rid of it ( had to as i wrecked it at 78 mph and totalled the front end). in the 2 years after i fixed it, i never ever had any problems with it ever again.

use the pharmacy version of the stuff. its much much much much better.

IB Tim · #23 (**permalink**) 12-12-2003, 05:58 PM

sodium silicate………racers call it water glass

TheHitMan · #24 (**permalink**) 12-12-2003, 06:29 PM

thats it...works exxelent. i was thinking earlier afer posting, and i went to the pharmacy and got a bottle to put in my 4X4 box for when im in the hills. could really get a person out of a tight spot with a holy radiator or a blown HG....

knucklehead11 · #25 (**permalink**) 12-13-2003, 01:24 AM

Kinda late, already bought meh a new car... pickin' it up tomorrow... I'm just tired of things breaking on the engine. Not much the block and all, but other things break too, so I just wanna get rid of it and have a better car.... I do plan on getting another BII in the future, though... so I got hope for dat one!

gillbot · #26 (**permalink**) 12-14-2003, 07:42 PM

I recently purchased a '88 Bronco II 4x4 XLT with power everything for $1095. 92k original miles and everything works great on it. Gave it the usual tune up and starts first key turn every time. I plan on converting the pushbutton 4x4 to manual T-case as well as comverting the auto hubs to manual but other than that, it's a great little truck!

IB Tim · #27 (**permalink**) 12-14-2003, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by gillbot
I recently purchased a '88 Bronco II 4x4 XLT with power everything for $1095. 92k original miles and everything works great on it. Gave it the usual tune up and starts first key turn every time. I plan on converting the pushbutton 4x4 to manual T-case as well as comverting the auto hubs to manual but other than that, it's a great little truck!

IMO that is an outstanding price, does it have good paint and no rust.

gillbot · #28 (**permalink**) 12-14-2003, 08:34 PM

usual wheel well rust and one small rust through by the gas filler. Still a great price though. paint is ok but about normal for an '88 from what i've seen. interior is nearly flawless, looks almost new! when i bought it, the guy said the 4wd wasn't working and I knew it was the shift motor. got it home, cleaned it and it works great!

TheHitMan · #29 (**permalink**) 12-14-2003, 08:39 PM

thats like mine. i bought a 1985 2.8/xlt/power everything/AC/manual 4x4/ 5 speed/auto hubs with 90,000 origional miles ( im the second owner) and no ****, mine looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor. no rust either, paints either redone or factory ( everything matches the jambs and underhood) but its also like new ( less the standard small rock chips, ect). the origional owners had every service, ect done on it at either the dealerr and/or the shop. i mean EVERYTHING. ive got reciepts on every bit of it./ if they had to have a tail light bulb replaced, it went to the shop ( i know this to be true cause ive got a 3 inch thick stack of reciepts, and one actually happenes to be for tail light bulbs!)

you got a good deal man. if i can find a way to post pix of mine, i think everyone will be very impressed for the price i paid.

IB Tim · #30 (**permalink**) 12-14-2003, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by TheHitMan
thats like mine. i bought a 1985 2.8/xlt/power everything/AC/manual 4x4/ 5 speed/auto hubs with 90,000 origional miles ( im the second owner) and no ****, mine looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor. no rust either, paints either redone or factory ( everything matches the jambs and underhood) but its also like new ( less the standard small rock chips, ect). the origional owners had every service, ect done on it at either the dealerr and/or the shop. i mean EVERYTHING. ive got reciepts on every bit of it./ if they had to have a tail light bulb replaced, it went to the shop ( i know this to be true cause ive got a 3 inch thick stack of reciepts, and one actually happenes to be for tail light bulbs!)

you got a good deal man. if i can find a way to post pix of mine, i think everyone will be very impressed for the price i paid.

If you ever want to loose it.........well let me know