My 2001 F250 Super-Duty Supercab has annoying rattles in both side doors. I suspect the suicide doors dut it happens under minor road imperfections; not big bumps. Just a rattling noise coming from the seam between the suicide doors and the main front doors. I see there is a TSB for the 1999 6.0 Diesel for the misaligned doors. Is there anyone that can help me for the 2001 Gas? Thanks.

 

My drivers side rattles since 2nd month of ownership, it is a '02 crewcab. I hope there is a tsb to fix it since I know many others that had to have theirs adjusted.

 

The only time I've experienced a "rattle" was when one of the rear doors was latched, but not properly seated.

However, having said that, I was really disappointed in the way my doors were lined up, and the way they sounded when I closed them. I expected to hear a "THUD" and only got a "Clunk". Do your doors look like they line up? My '03 Supercab had a rear door that was obviously out of whack. It had a gap of less than a 1/4" at the top, and over a half inch at the bottom. I measured, and compared, all the gaps between the doors themselves and everywhere they come in contact with the body, then took the results to the dealer. They realigned both rear doors, and although I had no real rattle to speak of, the doors now sound like you'd expect a new vehicle to sound.....not like bangin' two empty oil cans together.

If your rear doors are out a bit and not seated tightly, the front doors may not be properly closed and producing your rattle. You should be able to get some satisfaction from your dealer under warranty.

Rick

 

Thanks Rick! I'm not convinced it is the latching point of the doors. It sounds like a small rod or something maybe rattling. Does anyone know about the inner mechanism for the latches? Is there a connecting rod that might be "shuddering" between a guide or something? it has only started since it got cold here.

 

My 2001 has been rattling since day one. been back to the dealer 5 times just for that, replaced cab mounts 3 times ,do not let dealer tell you that one I really dont belive they know what the problem really is .but I do know this it is in the doors because I opened all my doors up and and got someone to ride with me in the back seat got a friend to drive it and we could not hear nothing at all but close the doors back and move the truck 10 ft and it started all over again

 

this has come up alot, all my doors did these very thing after various amounts of time, but i finally fixed it myself, (after ripping all the plastics off the doors and hours of searching for the rattles) you have to modify the Striker plate and or the bolts holding it on.(your doors dont close tight enough, sounds fishy i know, but IT WORKS< I PROMISE) The striker plate is the loop bolted to your truck the door latches onto, you need to move it in about 1/16th of an inch and it will cure the problem, i have instructed many on this board of the process, first replace the bolts with standard head metric bolt replacement, get some small washers that will not alow the bolt to be affected by the sink head hole of the striker plate, youll see when you remove it, Anyway by just replacing the bolts i was able to move the mounts enough in the hole of the striker plate itself to cure the rattles in all but the driver door,by just slidin it back and tighten the bolts. with the driver door i had to drill through the striker plate holes, to make them more adjustable, had to move that striker plate in about 1/8 inch, no more rattles, take one off youll see what i mean, any questions email me........... I PROMISE the rattles will go away.
jetjock16

close the door slowly the first time to make sure your new bolt heads clear the door.

 

JetJock is Da Man! Worked like a charm! Thanks for your help. No more rattles.

 

 

As posted on this forum, the fix on moving the stricker plate back about 1/16 to 1/8 worked great. But instead of drilling the holes bigger and using new bolts, I instead just filed the existing holes longer with a rasp file, and also beveled a sink and was able to use the oringinal bolts.

 

I also followed jetjock's instructions and it worked perfectly. For anyone's convenience the bolts you need (at least I did on my 2000) are metric #8, with 1.25mm pitch. In my case, these bolts had a 13mm hex head. Be sure you get high-grade bolts so you don't have to worry about shearing in a wreck.

I haven't done it yet, but it's probably a good idea to put a dab of loctite on them after you are sure you have the result you want.

Thanks JJ!

 

Are we talking about the bottom latch or the top latch that needs to be adjusted? Mine seems to squeak from the top, so I assume that is what is meant.

TOP or BOTTOM?