Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Misc. > Electrical Systems/Wiring
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 12-03-2003, 12:48 AM
97flairside 97flairside is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Jersey
Posts: 173
97flairside is starting off with a positive reputation.
how to tell if alternator is bad?

What are some signs other then dimming lights that a alternator is going bad? Tonight everything seemed fine with my truck untill i went to start it after leaving barnes and noble. I put the key in and tured, heard a pop then eveyrthing went dead. Nothing worked at all. Called triple A they came and gave me a jump start. It worked but i couldn't believe i needed it. Its a brand new battery purchased in september.

What else could've caused what seemed like a short?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-03-2003, 01:47 AM
punchy1's Avatar
punchy1 punchy1 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: San Diego via Baton Rouge
Posts: 98
punchy1 is starting off with a positive reputation.
punchy18
how did it act after it was jumped? if it acted kinda' funny, like it had lost power or maybe the radio or something was dim or faint, it probably is your alt. i've been going through some charging problems my self the last few days. there are ways to check it, but most auto part stores will do it for 'ya free.
__________________
--------------------
Suffering from a life long F100 affair
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-03-2003, 04:16 AM
Mike W's Avatar
Mike W Mike W is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Central Kali
Posts: 7,157
Mike W is starting off with a positive reputation.
You might have blown a fuse link. I don't believe an alternator would make a pop, plus you lost all power.
__________________
FTE: You can check out but you can never leave.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-03-2003, 10:56 AM
78fordman's Avatar
78fordman 78fordman is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Jefferson, Iowa
Posts: 2,360
78fordman is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.78fordman is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Usually is what i do, is take off the battery terminals and see if it is still running, if it dies, it is not charging. Just just it is not charging, does not mean the alternator is bad, could be the regulator, or the wiring. If it keeps running, for the moment it is fine. Something might be grounding out, and you hearn a loose wire connectoin weld its self to something.
__________________
2003 F-250 4WD Auto, 6.0, ex Cab, scan gauge, blue spring, Ed's Atlas 40 premium FICM, Red ELC coolant and coolant filter.
2003 E-450 2wd auto, 7.3, chassis cab with utility box.
2002 E-250 2wd auto, 5.4, man van.
1970 f-100 2wd, c-6, 425hp 390, 3.90 w/ minispool
2006 five hundred 3.0 DOHC w/ CVT
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-03-2003, 02:43 PM
Franklin2's Avatar
Franklin2 Franklin2 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Staunton VA
Posts: 33,270
Franklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant future
Quote:
Originally posted by 78fordman
Usually is what i do, is take off the battery terminals and see if it is still running, if it dies, it is not charging. Just just it is not charging, does not mean the alternator is bad, could be the regulator, or the wiring. If it keeps running, for the moment it is fine. Something might be grounding out, and you hearn a loose wire connectoin weld its self to something.
I do not recommend taking the battery cable off with the engine running. You can blow up stuff in a hurry. I learned this the hard way. Pulled the cable off a pickup I had onetime, it ran for about 10 more seconds and then quit. Would crank but not start after that. Know what I did? I blew the ignition module. Lesson learned.

As far as the original problem, I would try the easy stuff first. I would take the battery terminals loose and clean them.
__________________
Dave F

1989 F250 XLT Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-03-2003, 04:36 PM
Mil1ion Mil1ion is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Mil1ion is starting off with a positive reputation.
Removing a Battery cable from a vehicle While the engine is running will blow diodes & destroy your alternator.
Tye voltage regulator is what determines the voltage flow not the alternator.

That's why the headlights dim at idle, the engine has to reach at least 800 rpm to have the VR kick in and provide extra power.

Removing the battery cable:

You guys are behind some 40 years as this practice was used on [size-4] Generator type vehicles[/size]

It was done to SPIKE the system to get the generator/voltage regulator to work.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-03-2003, 10:24 PM
97flairside 97flairside is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Jersey
Posts: 173
97flairside is starting off with a positive reputation.
when it got jumped the idle was off, not normal at all. If i turned the wheel to much the engine would die, if i came to an abrupt stop it would die or just stop at a light it would dip down to almost 100rpms then go up to 700rpms then even out at 400rpms.

It did this today today but not nearly as bad. The lights would dim as the rpms dropped.

Whatever did happen it feels like I have another engine in my truck. It feels like there is more power.

What could've caused this problem? I mean it ran fine before i went into barnes and noble. When I put the key in it lit the dash up like normal but as soon as you go to START everything went dead. I don't get it.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-03-2003, 10:50 PM
Mil1ion Mil1ion is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Mil1ion is starting off with a positive reputation.
Clean all the connections & grounds at the starter solenoid, V/R,Battery
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 12-03-2003, 10:50 PM
Renegadesrun Renegadesrun is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Lafayette, Indiana
Posts: 377
Renegadesrun is starting off with a positive reputation.
Drop by autozone (and about 10 other chains) and let some kid check it for free.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 12-03-2003, 10:55 PM
97flairside 97flairside is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Jersey
Posts: 173
97flairside is starting off with a positive reputation.
not to sound stupid but what would cleaing the connections on the starter have to do with anything? It's not like it wanted to crank there were no lights on the dash nothing lit up, no noises at all. Where is the V/R located? Battery terminals are clean as can be.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 12-03-2003, 11:26 PM
punchy1's Avatar
punchy1 punchy1 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: San Diego via Baton Rouge
Posts: 98
punchy1 is starting off with a positive reputation.
punchy18
while the truck is off, try the lights. if lights are dim or dead, then it isn't starter connections. i have a feeling it probably is you're altenator. the only weird thing is that popping sound. try and see if batt. takes charge with external charger. or if you have a voltmeter in truck or a handheld multimeter, then jump off truck and check if voltage raises, if so then your alt. is good.
__________________
--------------------
Suffering from a life long F100 affair
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 12-04-2003, 12:09 AM
Mil1ion Mil1ion is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Mil1ion is starting off with a positive reputation.
I never said starter, I said the starter solenoid,plus all the cables & mounting areas.

Everything connects to the Voltage Regulator(V/R)

For Peace of Mind
You want to MAKE sure that everything is CLEAN ,TIGHT & making good contact before trying to trouble-shoot the system.

That includes the Mounting area of the V/R & starter solenoid.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 12-04-2003, 12:42 AM
97flairside 97flairside is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Jersey
Posts: 173
97flairside is starting off with a positive reputation.
where are all these things located? the poping sound i heard wasn't to loud. Maybe it was just everything just shutting off that made a noise.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-02-2004, 01:54 AM
archangel archangel is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Joliet, Illinois
Posts: 1,236
archangel is starting off with a positive reputation.
It was that small piece of lead that was still in contact with the battery burning away at the battery/cable connection as the rest of the battery clamp was insulated by corrosion and or crud!

The man said it more than once, and he was right, "so pretty please, with sugar on top, clean the friggen connections!"

In part (the last two lines) shamelessly stolen from Pulp fiction!
__________________
Had to sell the Gray 1991 F250 standard cab, 7.3, E4OD, 3.55:1, stock wheels and tires.
It had a verified 19 mpg city taking off slow as hell then shutting it down at red lights, and with the radiator grill blocked flush, no bed cover, "drag shoot" mirrors still on I got 24 mpg at 50 to 55 mph on the freeway empty!
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-02-2004, 06:48 PM
97flairside 97flairside is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Jersey
Posts: 173
97flairside is starting off with a positive reputation.
well i took some thin pieces of lead and hammered them flat and put them on the terminals. It helped alot. Terminals weren't dirty. The negative bolt was tightened all the way but it slid off easily.
Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2004, 06:48 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
F-350 Alternator Problem? KirstenxMarie Super Duty & Heavy Duty 14 08-03-2013 07:56 PM
bad alternator or battery? Justin16 1997 - 2003 F150 12 12-20-2012 11:50 PM
2003 F-250 alternator problems craigt8 1997 - 2003 F150 2 09-05-2011 02:24 AM
2003 F250 alternator problems craigt8 Super Duty & Heavy Duty 5 09-04-2011 04:04 PM
EMERGENCY, HELP! Alternator got shorted at starter relay..Help! wisconsin Expedition & Navigator 7 02-03-2008 10:59 PM


Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Misc. > Electrical Systems/Wiring

Tags
alt, altenator, alternator, bad, battery, charging, dead, die, ford, hw, lights, pop, regulator, sound, voltage

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump


Participate In The Forums

Create new posts and participate in discussions. It's free!

Sign Up »





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:03 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup