Anyone know if the frot bumper (XLT Chrome) is steel or chromed alluminum? It looks to me as if it is alluminum but im not sure, I heard it only weighs 40lbs, if it were steel i would think it would weigh alot more. Reason im asking, if its alluminum i want to drill 2 holes into it but if its steel, then im not cause of rust.

Thank ya!

 

I'm 95% sure it's steel, albeit paper thin steel.

Waxy

 

Use a magnet - If the magnet sticks, it's steel. If it doesn't stick, it's aluminum.

Gary M.

White 2002 F250 SD, SC, SB, 4x4, 6.8L v10, 3.73LS, 4spd Auto, Reverse Aid Sensor, Class IV Hitch, Offroad Package, Manual Hubs, 40/20/40 Bench Seat, Towing Package, Camper Package, Lariat, Putco Locker Side Rails, Mud Flaps, K&N Filter, Vent Visors, Aluminum in-bed Tool Box (sits in the bed, dosn't hang over the bed rails), Vent Visors, CB radio w/102" SS Whip Antenna, Autolocks programmed off, Seatbelt Minder programmed off, Key in ignition sensor wire dosconnected...

White 2002 Ranger 4x2 3.0L V6 XLT 2 door supercab with the power group, auto, chrome wheels, mud flaps, body side molding, vent visors, Leonard cab high fiberglass camper shell, and the 60/40 bench seat as my daily driver

 

>Use a magnet - If the magnet sticks, it's steel. If it
>doesn't stick, it's aluminum.
>
>Gary M.

Was gonna try the Gary but im afraid the chrome coating will produce false results as I think the magnet will attract to the chrome coating on the alluminum, even from the rear side. I dunno

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 07-Jan-03 AT 01:32 PM (EST)]hmmmmm.... I thought chrome was a non-ferrous metal but, when it comes to plating, it is possible that they are using an alloy and theres no telling what other metals might be in the mix.

I'd try it anyway, and if it doesn't stick then you can be sure the bumper is aluminum. If it sticks, it could be the chrome but more than likely the bumper is steel.

Hopefully someone a little more informed will be along shortly to straighten me out.


Gary M.

White 2002 F250 SD, SC, SB, 4x4, 6.8L v10, 3.73LS, 4spd Auto, Reverse Aid Sensor, Class IV Hitch, Offroad Package, Manual Hubs, 40/20/40 Bench Seat, Towing Package, Camper Package, Lariat, Putco Locker Side Rails, Mud Flaps, K&N Filter, Vent Visors, Aluminum in-bed Tool Box (sits in the bed, dosn't hang over the bed rails), Vent Visors, CB radio w/102" SS Whip Antenna, Autolocks programmed off, Seatbelt Minder programmed off, Key in ignition sensor wire dosconnected...

White 2002 Ranger 4x2 3.0L V6 XLT 2 door supercab with the power group, auto, chrome wheels, mud flaps, body side molding, vent visors, Leonard cab high fiberglass camper shell, and the 60/40 bench seat as my daily driver

 

It is steel. I was putting fog lights on the other day that I got for Christmas and I sed a magnetic nut and bolt pan it stuck tight to the bumper. If it had been aluminum, even with the chrome, it would not have held on as tight as it did.

 

steel is cheaper then aluminum. the CEO big wigs would never ok the use of something more expensive then what they were using......

 

Gary, Y2K350, thank ya muchly

Figures the one time I want Ford to cheap out they go and use the strong stuff! Although I guess aluminum would be more expensive than steel....I shoulda known.

OK guess that means plan B for me, thanx again

 

 

definately cheap steel on my 00. stone chip.....yes that 's right a stone chip is rusting. Hey what do you want for 40g's?

 

>definately cheap steel on my 00. stone chip.....yes that 's
>right a stone chip is rusting. Hey what do you want for
>40g's?

How pathetic is that! Now i absolutley will not drill into my bumper.

 

>Anyone know if the frot bumper (XLT Chrome) is steel or
>chromed alluminum? It looks to me as if it is alluminum but
>im not sure, I heard it only weighs 40lbs, if it were steel
>i would think it would weigh alot more. Reason im asking, if
>its alluminum i want to drill 2 holes into it but if its
>steel, then im not cause of rust.
>
>Thank ya!

Very thin steel. I have a little dent in mine, and I am going to take it off and try to "ligtley"tap it out.

 

When I drilled the holes for my foglights it took about a minute of drilling to get through the steel with a 7/16th bit. It seems the thickness of the bumper is not that great maybe 1/8th thick, but it seemed strong enough. Nice thing about Fairbanks is they don't use any chemicals on the streets here so rust and corrosion isn't a problem.
It may not be the strongest bumper built but it sure beats alot of the fiberglass ones that are on almost all of the cars now.

 

>When I drilled the holes for my foglights it took about a
>minute of drilling to get through the steel with a 7/16th
>bit.

Hmmm, Im very curious, where you drilled is it out in the open where you can see? or behind the valance? If you can see, have you noticed any rust due to the holes?

 

I drileed the holes and mounted them on the lip above the license plate holder in the corners. I just did them December 28th 2002. They were a christmas present from a friend of mine and he even helped me put them on. They have only been on a couple of weeks and it's so cold here right now rust won't even come to visit us yet.