The rubber gasket is slowly being extruded from the pan on my son's F-150. Shop quote to fix was about $350 - which he can't really afford. The truck has about 75k miles, so the oil pump should be ok for a while yet. If we do this ourselves, does the engine have to be raised, or can we snake the new gasket in around the oil pump? Also, a parts store guy told my son that he could pull the old gasket and use silicone sealant instead - a gasket is not necessary. Anyone know if that sounds right? Thanks!

 

You can use silicone to secure the gasket in place but NOT in place of the gasket. Parts guys sell parts , they dont always have the hands on experience . You woudlnt have to raise the engine a lot to remove the oil pan but it will still be a tight fit .Loosen the motor and transmission mounts and raise the engine. First verify the oil leaks are from the oil pan gasket . A lot of times the rear main seal is the cause of the leaks . If it is the oil pan gasket , its important that you torque the bolts in proper sequence . The pan also has stiffening bars along the pan , make sure these are reinstalled in the proper places .
Paul

 

Hey I have done the I-6 Oil pan gasket and oil pump without removing the engine. It took me (alone) about 2 hours. I also changed the oil pump at the same time. You might consider a new oil pump at the same time you do the gasket. Do the job yourself and with a fraction of the labor $$ you save you will be able to purchase a new oil pump. I would use a light coat of silicon on the new gasket. Oh and be sure you purchase a good quality gasket ie. Fel-pro. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the comments. We installed it today. We did raise the engine a couple of inches - the extra clearance helped. Pretty hot in Houston for driveway work, but it seemed to come out ok. Saved my son about $300 and we got to cuss a little together - father/son bonding.

Thanks again.

 

Interesting. Was the gasket leaking? My '95 F150 300 I6 has the oil pan gasket on one side sticking out about an inch. You can even see the holes in the gasket where the bolts go thru. It does not leak though. My mechanic, who used to be a Ford mechanic, said its no problem as the gasket is very wide and that there is plenty of gasket still sealing the pan. It probably was originally installed this way. Sadly, I probably will be replacing the gasket one of these days as the pan is extremely rusty and getting a bit weak in one area.

 

Yes, the gasket is pretty wide. On ours, there were some places where it had torn through the bolt holes and the gasket was completely squeezed out. It was leaking, but not very badly. We probably could have let it go a while longer, even though a mechanic (?) advised my son against driving it at all. Anyway, we put in a new gasket. I think it was a Fel-Pro - it has steel reinforced bolt holes in it. I'm thinking it should last as long as he'll have the truck - another 4-5 years. Good luck!

 

Yo!
Good job!

I have a question that maybe Paul or someone else can answer. Is it still vital to use the type of silicone sealer that is Oxygen Sensor compatible on any engine component?

 

 

I think most all the silicone sealant stuff is Ok as far O2 Sensors are concerned , At least most all the Permatex stuff I see claims it is . I got some stuff from Ford yrs ago called Super Seal . Its great for water pumps , thermostat housings , thru bolts on water pumps , any oil sealing . Its a 1950's Ford part number so its been around awhile . It comes in a little tin jar with a brush inside ...Ive had for yrs and still have over 1/2 can left .
Paul