This is my saga……………. I need help and please forgive the short sentences.

1996 Ford Ranger 88450 miles 4.0L 4x4 automatic Ext. cab.
I still have the temp tags on it <grin>

After I first got the truck: on 10/12/03
Wouldn't idle correctly in the morning or on a cold engine. Light hesitation on take-off's.

Unplugged the battery first on all repairs:

cleaned MAF with Electronic part cleaner and all other sensors that I could see and let dry; replaced the plugs; inspected wires (they look new)
cleaned inside of throttle body of carbon build-up around the butterfly (I still call it that)
Replaced air filter with a K&N: also ran 2 different types of fuel inj. cleaner

Still would not idle correctly. Same conditions as mentioned as before

Approx. week later:
Took to Repair shop and they replaced the TPS and said the truck was "fine"

In the past 10-14 days I have noticed the following AFTER the repair shop:

On morning/cold startups: sometimes the trk would idle @ approx. 850-1200 rpms or would act like it wants to die and I would have to baby the throttle for approx. 20-30 secs. It was a hit or miss on or if it would idle
After reading on this group, it seems like my most of my symptoms were pointing to the MAF being dirty or defective.

Sunday 11/02:
I cleaned the MAF more thoroughly this time. After reattaching all hoses and sensors. Trk seems to have more power.
After driving trk for approx. 30mins. I went into the store, came back out after 20-30 mins. And the truck would turn over but not fire. After the 3rd-4th time, I turned key over and gave it a little gas. Would not stay running until I babied the gas for 20-30 secs and keeping the RPM's around 1500-2000 rpms, it ran/idled like junk. After 20-30 secs., trk would idle but real low and not very stable.
After I drove it for a few mins, it ran great.

More further research/troubleshooting:
I replaced the Eng. Water Temp sensor (not the sending unit that goes to the gage). I read on one of these groups that this sensor could cause similar probs that I have.
No difference in performance or drivability.
Truck has good power but refuses to idle on a hot motor unless it is cold or has sat for a few hours.
Will not idle properly if let to set for approx 30 mins after a full engine warm-up.

I have taken carb cleaner and sprayed over most of the engine to see if there is a vacuum leak: no difference in idle raising or lowering.
I noticed this morning in a "trial experiment", that after the truck is running and I turn on the A/C to max, I hear a clicking sound (like a solenoid) coming from the engine, then the idle would go down, another clicking noise, idle would go up a little. This cycle would continue until I turned the A/C off.
I know the more info given, the problem is easier to diagnose. I have a MAF ordered thru NAPA that will be here today. Cost was around $100 + the core. Not bad considering Ford is almost 3 times as much.
I really need some help here.
Bad.
Also, after driving it in 75^ weather (it's warm here in OHIO) the idle will be around 1000-1200 after I engage it in park. That seems high to me.
I don't want this thing to sensor me to death nor do I want to take it to a dealership and let them milk me for a few hundred. But at this stage in the game and if I knew they could fix it, it would almost be worth it.
The truck is undependable to me and I pick my kids up @ 2 different locations every night. I need this thing to be dependable and not to have it in the back of my mine: "will it start when I turn the motor off"
Any and all comments welcome and thanks in advance for the help.

 

Clean the idle air control valve (IAC) and replace if no improvement. Common problem.

 

I mistakengly stated that the TPS was replaced, I meant to say it was the Idle Air Control. My apologies.
Any other suggestions ?

 

I replaced the MAF approx an 1.5 hrs. ago and let the truck idle for approx. 15 mins. After that, I took it out for a 5 mile drive never exceding 45mph. I brought it back home, let it idle for about 10 more mins. I then drove it normally for about 2 more miles. Came back home, shut it down for approx. 40 minutes and my problem returns: hard starts, doesn't wanna idle unless I baby the throttle for 30-40 seconds. Then it idles fine, drove it around the block a few times and is running fine and idiling fine @ stop signs.
Why does it want to rough idle after a 30-40 minute cool down ?
I will see how it idles in the morning after the motor completely cools off.
Any suggestions ? I am really lost @ this point.
TIA.

 

I dont know if this helps but i have a '96 Exlporer with a 4.0L V6 Auto with 4x4(same setup) around 79,000 i had the same problem(hard starts an bad idling).Unlike you having patience i just took it to the dealership i got it from and according to their readings one of my cylinders was leaking then i found out after they picked the heads up m head gasket was blown.ever since then its ran like a charm.only think i had to do since then was replace the plugs an plug wires.

 

Check this out.

 

I have a 1999 4.0 SOHC and experience tough starts and idel when the outside air temp is below 50 degrees. I have rplaced the IAC Valve, Mass Air Flow Sensor, Throttle body and Throttle body positioner all to no avail. Once the engine warms everthing is fine and the engine runs great. What gives?

Very frustrated

 

the ac was clicking because you have a leak or are low on fluid probrally check teh pressure it should be approx 35psi also try a new tps. do you have a check engine light?

pyrotech your royugh idleing is caused bu defective lower intake manifold o rings they should be fixed on a recall as well as your timing chain csetts and tenisioner

 

I am sure my lower O rings are the problem. I tried the propane injection during my cold start up and it ran perfect until the shut off the propane. I opened the propane again and it smoothed right out. Obviosely, it runs lean (shoting code) on the cold start and the propane injection fix just proves it. Given no other issues like the collent temp sensor and MAFS it must be the O rings.
Can the repair kit be bought directly from Fprd and if I ask for the M0012 kit will they Know what I am taking about since my Explorer was recently sewrviced by the dealer with no mention and the vehical was left there the night befor on a vey cold night. Simply, I have no confidence.

 

I had this same problem on my 99 Explorer w/ SOHC V-6. On cold mornings it would start, then cough and sputter for about 1 minute, then run fine. I cleaned the IAC which did not help. I took it to the shop where they replaced the IAC and also the intake manifold gaskets. Runs like a champ now! The codes they pulled were: misfire in all cylinders, lean bank 1, lean bank 2. My CEL never went off, but the codes were there nonetheless. Definiely try the IAC replacement first. They're only about $65 (which probably explains why they are notorious for going out!) I hope this helps.

 

BrianJ77, Yes I already replaced the IAC valve and the problem still exists. I did a propoane enrichment at cold start up and it did cure the problem as long as the propoane was flowing. Obviosly I am running lean at cold start and my codes back that up (same as yours). I need to get to Ford to see what they are going to charge. According to their service bullitans Ford only allowed the dealers 1.8 hours for the job. Lets see what they tell me. I'll bring the bullitans alopng with me.

 

PYROTECH - Where do you find these service bullentins? I just bought a 98 Explorer and I also had the cold idle problem. Is this something that Ford should cover the cost?

 

I found the service bullitans at ALLDATA (www.alldata.com). The cost for a year subscription is approx $25. The bullitan number is 00M12 dated 00/11/01 with the title "Campaign-Camshaft Chain Tensioner & Intake Gasket". This bullitan has all of fords documentation to the dealers including the sample letter to be sent to the truck owner and service procedure with pics.
According to Ford they will honor to 72,000 miles only at their cost. I'm am going to approach my dealer since I never got the letter but it a long shot to get them to honor the service since I have 120,000 miles.
Good luck.

 

skibender, congratulations on your "new" Explorer! You should keep in mind during your search for information that the 1998 Explorer came with two very different 4.0L motors available ...the OHV "Pushrod" verson, and the optional SOHC version.

01PEWERTA's 1996 Ford Ranger came with the 4.0L OHV Pushrod version, which is the same motor that was put in both the Rangers and Explorers at that time.

 

Skibender

See my previous post for ALLDATA web site. Service bullitans for all vehicals are available though this service.