I want to heat up my 56 f250 stock axle to make it a drop axle. I would make a jig to keep it all lined up correctly. I was wondering if it would still be strong enough for street use, not hauling anything anymore. I would buy one but money is short but i want it a little lower.
Thanks
Onelowzuki

 

Unless your an Oldtime rodder whose done this before, a Blacksmith who regularly works with metal, or someone who feels very very lucky, I wouldn't try doing this a home.
Its just not bending, they have to be streched, twisted, and aligned

 

Zuki

I'm sure you have heard of the old rodders routinely doing this. Dick's right though, cherrying the old straight axle should be done with caution. Can I suggest you pull a few leaves from the front stacks for a similar low buck lowering effect until you can afford a dropped axle, or find someone qualified to modify yours without losing the metals temper?

 

Don't do it! The heating and cooling of the axle is critical to prevent internal cracks. This particular part of your front axle is critical to saftey, both for yourself but to others as well.

Try taking a bunch of leaves out of the front spring. You can always put them back in one by one to get the lowness you are looking for and the ride you want.

Also, a dropped axle requires a dropped tie rod because if the axle is dropped down the tie rod will run right into the springs, Making a dropped tie rod is possible but also very critical for saftey. The dropped tie rod ends curently being sold with some of the dropped axles are about the most mickey mouse, dangerous looking things I have ever seen, in my opinion.

Good luck, and be safe.

BobJonesSpecial
I intend to live forever - so far so good.

 

As mentioned dont even think of doing it at home! Old time farmers were always bending axles and fixing them in the barn. Remember those old movies of the shaky old truck going down the road at odd angles?
At least most never got over 30 mph; that is a big step from going out in modern traffic.

A dropped axle done with with all new tooling is only $290; save up and go that route. If you dont intend to load that F250 then playing with springs could be an option. Either that or go for one of the lighter duty F100 spring packages, the axles are the same and I believe the spring lengths are also.

 

where can i get a dropped front axle for a 60 f100

and can i still use on if we made new low brackets for the rear mount of the front leafs and removed bump stops and about to c notch frame

or do i need not do any of that with a dropped axle?

 

Come on San Dimas, are you pulling our legs? Messing with the axle is one thing (bad idea)but now you're talking about notching the frame also? Why would you want to make your truck weak in the front end? You mentioned not carrying loads anymore and just using it for street use. Well, what about the truck itself and passengers? That's a good sized load especially during braking situations. I can just see it now: You're cruising down Main Street and somebody pulls out of a parking stall right in front of you. All the weight of the truck bares down on the front as you slam on the brakes. Simultainiously the frame twists and the front axle bends up on both ends. Your bumper hits the pavement and you slide into the person who cut you off! Your truck is ruined and you, and or, your pass may be seriously hurt. Is it really worth the risk just to lower the front end by a few inches? I've been there and I can tell you having a low front end is not all it's cracked up to be. If you're not carefull, you will always be scraping the front end on dips and speed bumps. Oh well, I'll get of my soap box now. You do what you want, but think about the consequences! John in Sacramento

 

Sandimasguy, "MOR DROP" (not sure if that is spelled right) they are in your state. They do dropped axles and some guy on E-Bay is making new dropped axles and I think Mid Fiftys sells his but they are for 53-56. They may be the same (never looked at a 60 F100.

You don't have to notch the frame but you do have to drop the tie rods some how. I would think the people at Mor Drop would tell you the right way.

You may want to consider reversed eye springs also. If you do notch it make sure there are no sharp corners (that causes cracks) in the notch and plate it. I would also put some form of bump stop over the axle.

If it were me I would go with IFS (in fact I did) but what ever floats your boat. Also LOW is the only way

Chuck

 

ifs is down the road so for now im just going to stick with removing some leafs,notching and making a new bracket

reverse eye springs sound good too maybe i could get another inch or so outta her

and for the rear i just ordered chris alstons ladder bar setup for which i plan to add some airbags when they come for them next month

 

and johntownsel if the front end brakes off it will just be an excuse for me to buy a sweet front end setup for in and weld it in

plus i love cutting crap off with the torch>>!!!

 

"and johntownsel if the front end brakes off it will just be an excuse for me to buy a sweet front end setup for in and weld it in"

As inconvenient as it would be, perhaps rodders should be subject to pre-vehicle licensing safety inspections in all 50 states. WAY too many enthusiasts don't display any regard for the safety of others. You can risk your own life if you wish. But you share the road with others and you don't have the right to put the lives of my family or anyone else's at risk.

C-notching a frame in this area just to get a little lower is pure ignorance. There are other ways to accomplish it that are not that expensive.

 

it looks as if we are actually going to put a camaro front end in the truck

we can get one for about $200 and i will have power steering,disk brakes & IFS after that

plus it will be alot lower than stock after that

i should have it all done this weekend and will post some new pictures of her after her complete suspension makeover

 

"i should have it all done this weekend and will post some new pictures of her after her complete suspension makeover"

Take your time Sandimas, it's a little more than a weekend job. But done correctly, it's a big improvement in safety to your other idea IMO. Please post your experiences on the Camaro thread a few pages back. We are about done with an IFS tech article.

And sorry about coming off so strong. We just had a real bad helicopter day in my home town. Life seems is a little more precious to me on days like this.

 

sandimas

You need to do some serious reading before going any further.
The Ford is designed with a Flex-Frame - The chevy is a ridigid frame - contrary to popular belief they don't mix. The chevy clip will want to breakoff right behind the connection.

 

If you contact CPP in Buena Park, you can get a set of reverse eye mono-leaks that will drop your front about 4.5". Install new shocks that are for the lowered truck and you will be in good shape. Total cost is around $500.00. Power steering can be added for about another $600.00, and you can also do power disks for about another $800.00. The drop axle is an option, but Mor-Drop is up north, and the cost of shipping your axle up there, and then getting it back will be pricey. Anyways, just some options. Check out the Pomona Fairgrounds Wed, Nov. 5th for a free cruise night.