Originally posted by seans64' im gonna be rebuilding my 352 and want to stroke it to a 390..can anyone possibly show me some information needed to complete this build.
thanks, sean
It's as simple as ratsmoker says - BUT be sure to have block checked over very good by a full service and trustworthy engine machine shop, not all 352 blocks are good candidates for .050 overbores (or so I've heard). Mine started life as 352 and it's been built as 390 for 11 years. (actually on 2nd build but not because anything was wrong with 1st). If you can afford it be sure to get it all balanced, do some research - there are many basic things to be done to upgrade rockers and oil mods, etc.
Good Luck
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Trev the CACWBY in WI - 67 F100
If your looking to save a little money, your 352 rods are the same measurements as any other FE series rods (apart from cap bolt/screw sizes on the 427 and special engines like PI and CJ/SCJ). If you get your old ones checked over and they are good they will work just fine.
Originally posted by n2ovals If your looking to save a little money, your 352 rods are the same measurements as any other FE series rods (apart from cap bolt/screw sizes on the 427 and special engines like PI and CJ/SCJ). If you get your old ones checked over and they are good they will work just fine.
They are not the same size. Long rods, used in the 352, 360, and 361, are 6.54". Short rods, used in the 390, 410, 427, and 428, are 6.49". Long rods will work in a 390, but they aren't as strong as short rods, and should not be used if you're going over 5000 rpm. With a 390 crank, long rods, and 390 pistons, you'll end up with a deck clearance of .062". Just make sure you use pistons with a compression height of 1.680", not the 1.776" used with most 360 pistons. Obviously you'll need new pistons after a .050" overbore, so just check the compression height before you get 'em. If they're 1.680" compression height, you can use long rods. If they're 1.776", use short rods.
If you use the short rods and pistons with a 1.776" compression height, you'll end up with .016" deck clearance.
im gonna print this stuff out and keep it as a reference..thanks for all the the input so far.....can anyone recomend any pistons,rods,push rods,etc....
TRW L2291F pistons are forged and should work good. Go to www.summitracing.com and search for TRW-L2291F. You will need to use short rods if you use these, though. I would suggest a Crane Cams 343941 hydraulic cam, with their matching valvetrain components, especially the springs.
Originally posted by rusty70f100 They are not the same size. Long rods, used in the 352, 360, and 361, are 6.54". Short rods, used in the 390, 410, 427, and 428, are 6.49". Long rods will work in a 390, but they aren't as strong as short rods, and should not be used if you're going over 5000 rpm. With a 390 crank, long rods, and 390 pistons, you'll end up with a deck clearance of .062". Just make sure you use pistons with a compression height of 1.680", not the 1.776" used with most 360 pistons. Obviously you'll need new pistons after a .050" overbore, so just check the compression height before you get 'em. If they're 1.680" compression height, you can use long rods. If they're 1.776", use short rods.
If you use the short rods and pistons with a 1.776" compression height, you'll end up with .016" deck clearance.
Y'know, Rusty, I was looking right at the chart (out of "Ford Power") and still misread it. Oops!
It depends on a number of things. It depends on what you're starting with, and the shift. When they originally bored the cylinders at the factory, sometimes they were shifted a little bit to one side or the other. The floating wrist pins compensated. But this made the cylinder wall thicker on one side than the other. The more of this, the less the overbore you can get.
If you're starting with a 4.05" bore 360/390 block, I'd say .060" is about as far as you want to go without having it checked. If you have it checked, I'd say you wont go much beyond .080", although this does take it up to 428 dimensions.
If you're starting with a 4.23" bore 427 block, you cannot go past .030". If you have a 427 block bored to .030" over, and a cylinder needs boring again, IT MUST BE SLEEVED!
However, there are places that can remove the cylinder walls, actually bore the block larger, and install larger cylinders in the block. However, this process is VERY expensive. I know this is done to get some 4.6L modular engines up to 324ci with stroking. A company called VTengines sells them, I'm not sure if they make them or not. They're at www.vtengines.com
I just got my 352 bored over .030 I got a 390 crank I just put in today. I guess that .020 short of .050 won't ever make a difference that'll I notice. I'll still me smoking ricers no matter what!
My 352 block says "32 352" right on the front of it. I wonder if mine is one of those blocks that can't be bored far like CACWBY was saying????
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-There's no replacement for Displacement
Originally posted by rusty70f100 It depends on a number of things. It depends on what you're starting with, and the shift. When they originally bored the cylinders at the factory, sometimes they were shifted a little bit to one side or the other. The floating wrist pins compensated. But this made the cylinder wall thicker on one side than the other. The more of this, the less the overbore you can get.
Actually core shift is the shifting of the cylinders while the cast is cooling. The actual bores are still in the right place. Its the cylinder that has moved slightly. Most 352s will go to a 4.05 bore. The only way to be sure is sonic check but I would take the gamble. It wouldn't be common for .050 to be too much.
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