Can fuel induction system cleanings ruin IAC valves?
Given that some who have responded say that a "cleaning" of an IAC would only buy some time and also that cleaning of an IAC could introduce solvent past the internal gaskets in the IAC and disable it, I am wondering if some of these high priced "fuel induction system cleaning" services that clean fuel injectors, intake manifold, ports and intake valves are guilty of forcing solvent into and ruining IAC valves. Any similar thoughts or proofs??
Thank you for your great "how-to" on replacing an IAC valve. My '99 Explorer had the same problem as many others -- on start up it would stall out unless I kept the RPM's over 1,000. Ford Service quoted me $120.00 to replace the valve. NAPA charged $59.50 and it took me all of 6 minutes to remove/replace the valve.
I did a search about an AIC, and this is where I ended up. But I have an 86 bronco and I didnt see anything that looks like an AIC, What i think it is might be a ABV (Air bypass valve). Am i correct? Im having all those symptoms...ride the brake or it dies...doesnt stay on. Does anyone know if its the ABV that i need to replace? Or how i could possible clean it?? Thanks
Yes, the air bypass valve is the earlier version of an IAC. Try cleaning it using the same procedures as with an IAC. On your Bronco, it should just barely idle with the ABV unplugged. If it dies, try cleaning the throttle body, where the throttle butterfly meets the housing. That may be all it needs.
00 Explorer Sport 4x2, 4.0 ohv, 5R55E, 3.55 diff
This advice was great. I have been living with the startup problem and got a whole bunch of advice. Spent a whole bunch of money. It appears that the IAC problem is Ford's #2 secret, alot of people are having this problem. I finally found this web site and took Wolf's advice, just gave mine a good cleaning and lube, hope it works, Thanks!
I cleaned the IAC and it was carboned up . The vehicle seems to run about the same ,but still makes the howling noise , which appears to be coming from the motor by the air filter . The motor looks new (very clean) but that is where the noise appears to come from. When you remove the air filter the engine stalls out . Air filter is clean and new. Is there a sensor for this blower motor , there is a box or connection ontop of the blower motor . Is this a problem with air flow caused by a faulty sensor, that controls the air flow . Or is it the motor itself .The noise only happens usually when the vehicle is first started ,and it occurs randomly,and the noise only lasts a short time 5-15 or 20 minutes or so. I thought it might be something to do with the barometric pressure as it was very humid and hot when this happened yesterday. But i am not sure and its the wifes car and she doesnt tell me half the time when it happens. Thanks for the help Bill B
Got my 2002 V8 back from the shop and they couldn't duplicate my intermittent "no idle" condition. My 99 4.0 had the issue with the IAC, so that's where I'm going to start with this on since it feels identical. I haven't dug into the engine bay yet, so I was wondering if anyone can tell me ahead of time where the IAC is on the 2002 4.6. Also if anyone knows that this is still an issue with the newer Explorers. I would have that they would have figured something out by now. Thanks!
2007 Expedition EL Limited
2002 Explorer XLT
2002 Mustang GT
I wanted to say that I am new here. Never new this site existed until I started having problems with my own vehicle. I decded to do a search & this is where I ended.
To start off with, I must first thank Wolfmeister for posting the very detailed article on the IAC repair. Thanks to his post, I was able to fix my problem without having to take my vehicle to the dealer.
The symptoms that I was having, was that the vehicle would idle very low and unstable. It didn't matter whether it was a cold start or after it had warmed up. After starting the vehicle, the only way to keep the vehicle running was to keep my foot on the accelerator. Once I removed my foot, it would drop back down below 500 rpm's and then stall out. I performed the steps posted in Wolfmeister's post and all of the readings I got were good. This was very confusing at first. So, I got the idea that maybe it was just stuck or dirty. What I ended up doing was, I managed to get the vehicle to idle long enough for me to get out to the engine compartment and I took a pair of plyers and lightly tapped on the IAC motor. Low and behold, all of a sudden, the engine came back up to a normal idle.
So, I ended up taking the IAC motor off using an 8mm socket and 3/8 drive ratchet. Then took it and sprayed some carb & choke cleaner down into the two ports and let it soak for about 10 to 15 minutes. I then inspected it and sprayed it a couple more times to get the loose debris out. I went back out to the vehicle and installed the IAC motor back on the vehicle and started the engine up. It started up with no problems, came right up to a very smooth idle.
Just as a precautionary messure, I will be checking into the cost of an IAC motor to have as a back up in the event that it decides to act up again.
This site was of great help with all sorts of tips / information. I hope this post will be of some help to many others.
Thank you very much Wolfmeister! I had the exact same problem happen to me just after going over 100,000 miles in my '98 Explorer V8. I was sweating it out thinking that it was something big and going to cost a fortune to fix. I thought this because I take care of my car and thought it was perfectly maintained, so if something was wrong it must be big. After seeing your post I went down to Pep Boys, dropped $45 for the new IAC, installed it in 5 minutes and my Explorer starts and runs awesome again. If anyone is interested, http://www.RockAuto.com is a great site to buy parts for a great price!
Just Wanted To Say Thank You For Helping Solve And Diagnose The Problem At Hand
I Was Having Intermittent Problems With My 95 Explorer Sport Doing This At Various Times In The Heat Of The San Fernando Valley.
I Had Gone And Purchased An IAC And Kept It In The Car For The "Next Time" It Mis Behaved Which Was Last week,,Only To Find I Got The Wrong One.
It Mounted Up Fine But The Electrical Connector Female Was Smaller Than The Male.
Took It Off, Cleaned The Old One Up A Bit So It Worked,,Then Returned The Part To Ford Finding Out That There Are 2 Different IACs,,One Number Ending In "BA" And The Other Ending With "AA", The "AA" One being The One I Needed.
So A Tip When Getting A Part Might Be To Make Sure Your Connector Is The Right One
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