Old Unibody Ford?
#31
trying to help a friend who's a widow and wants to sell her husbands 63 or 1963 and 1/2 they didn't make a 64 unibody, 3 speed. It was last registered in 2003 and been in the barn since a fuel pump problem and she parked it and left it. She had some body work done to it prior to it having the fp issue. She is asking $3,000.00 as is. Would she be better off to sell it that way or have it worked on to running stage and then sell it? (to which she would probably want more). Any suggestions on the pricing (up or sadly down) or where to market it would be appreciated. Thank ya
Honestly, the price differs to each person, I probably wouldn't pay a cent more than 1500, and someone might come along and offer you 5 grand, these trucks don't really have value, except to the eye and heart. A new fuel pump is about 45 bucks, so anyone even slightly mechanical will probably say don't fix it, they'll do it themselves.
#32
I have the chance to buy a 1963 F-100 CUSTOM CAB short bed unibody w/a 292 4 spd. It is only 5 driveways from me and has been in the barn for 30 years! An elderly gentleman has it and only wants $500.00 for it. It has stuff stacked all around it so it will be a few days before he gets it ready to go. More to come when I know more.
#34
I have the chance to buy a 1963 F-100 CUSTOM CAB short bed unibody w/a 292 4 spd. It is only 5 driveways from me and has been in the barn for 30 years! An elderly gentleman has it and only wants $500.00 for it. It has stuff stacked all around it so it will be a few days before he gets it ready to go. More to come when I know more.
Help him move the junk and take cash, I'd rob an old lady to get the money to buy that truck for $500.00
#35
#36
I have the chance to buy a 1963 F-100 CUSTOM CAB short bed unibody w/a 292 4 spd. It is only 5 driveways from me and has been in the barn for 30 years! An elderly gentleman has it and only wants $500.00 for it. It has stuff stacked all around it so it will be a few days before he gets it ready to go. More to come when I know more.
#38
61 Unibody question
I have a 61 f100 Unibody that needs restored. I have the original title (not salvage), and the keys. The body needs lots of work but the motor will turn and the rear-end isn't seized. It has been parked since 1984 and ran when it was parked. We are the second owners of this truck. I have been asked what I want for it and just don't know what to tell the guy. Any suggestions?
#39
Help needed.
Hey TJ,
I am looking to do some unique things to my 69 flareside. The rear shaped bumper for the unibody appears to have the same mounting holes as a 57-72 flareside. I cannot find the dimensions anywhere for the unibody. Can you help?
I am looking to do some unique things to my 69 flareside. The rear shaped bumper for the unibody appears to have the same mounting holes as a 57-72 flareside. I cannot find the dimensions anywhere for the unibody. Can you help?
Hey Walter,
I'm up to my ears in my 62 unibody shortbed project and it needed just about everything. Let me tell you what I learned. Sheetmetal is definitely hard to find. Non-unibody 61-64s share fenders, hoods, windshields and small window rear glass, dash parts and all mechanical pieces. Doors are specific to Unibodys, hoods and fenders interchange from 61-66. Core supports, upper grille panels and inner fenderwells are specific to non twin I-beam models (pre 65). Tailgates and taillights are 61-63 Unibody only. 65-66 twin I-beam trucks have different frames, floorboards, underhood sheetmetal, suspension & steering, powertrain mounting hardware and heating & A/C parts. If you're really getting down the resto stuff, wheels are 61-63 specific for the inner-snap hubcaps, mirrors and door glass are unibody specific as well. Although I managed to save mine, 61-66 fuel tanks appear the same. Door handles will swap from 61-66, but spring loaded upper door hinges from a 65-66 do not swap to a unibody (ask me how I found that one out) Most of the cool "Custom Cab" trim stuff from a 65-66 will bolt right up, from the door panels and zipper pockets, to the chrome door handle bezels to the super cool stainless dash inserts.
The hardest stuff to find in my experience is a straight and rust free hood, tailgates, big window glass and trim, and factory rear bumpers. Even non twin I beam stuff is getting scarce in the SoCal boneyards, and Unibody stuff in near extinct. Every other week for 2 years I have hit 8 self-serve boneyards over a 150 mile radius in SoCal and I have only seen 7 Unibodys. All but 1 were total junk. I nabbed the doors and tailgate from the decent one. That was the best $80 I have spent on that truck.
Lookout for rust in the drip rails, the tailgate, the leading edge of the hood and in the cab to frame mounts, just under the firewall. Floorboards and the lower half of core supports tend to get pretty rusty too.
Anyhow, If you have any questions... Im a huge Unibody enthusiast, let me know if I can help!!
Thanks!
T.J.
I'm up to my ears in my 62 unibody shortbed project and it needed just about everything. Let me tell you what I learned. Sheetmetal is definitely hard to find. Non-unibody 61-64s share fenders, hoods, windshields and small window rear glass, dash parts and all mechanical pieces. Doors are specific to Unibodys, hoods and fenders interchange from 61-66. Core supports, upper grille panels and inner fenderwells are specific to non twin I-beam models (pre 65). Tailgates and taillights are 61-63 Unibody only. 65-66 twin I-beam trucks have different frames, floorboards, underhood sheetmetal, suspension & steering, powertrain mounting hardware and heating & A/C parts. If you're really getting down the resto stuff, wheels are 61-63 specific for the inner-snap hubcaps, mirrors and door glass are unibody specific as well. Although I managed to save mine, 61-66 fuel tanks appear the same. Door handles will swap from 61-66, but spring loaded upper door hinges from a 65-66 do not swap to a unibody (ask me how I found that one out) Most of the cool "Custom Cab" trim stuff from a 65-66 will bolt right up, from the door panels and zipper pockets, to the chrome door handle bezels to the super cool stainless dash inserts.
The hardest stuff to find in my experience is a straight and rust free hood, tailgates, big window glass and trim, and factory rear bumpers. Even non twin I beam stuff is getting scarce in the SoCal boneyards, and Unibody stuff in near extinct. Every other week for 2 years I have hit 8 self-serve boneyards over a 150 mile radius in SoCal and I have only seen 7 Unibodys. All but 1 were total junk. I nabbed the doors and tailgate from the decent one. That was the best $80 I have spent on that truck.
Lookout for rust in the drip rails, the tailgate, the leading edge of the hood and in the cab to frame mounts, just under the firewall. Floorboards and the lower half of core supports tend to get pretty rusty too.
Anyhow, If you have any questions... Im a huge Unibody enthusiast, let me know if I can help!!
Thanks!
T.J.
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