Hi everyone, I have a problem and I'm at my wit's end!!!I have a 94 F150 4x4. I have 32x11.5x15 on alum Amer. Racing Rims with factory offset. Unmodified front suspensionAt any speed on a bumpy road, you have to fight it to keep it in your lane! Wanders all over the place. Same on interstate. If you jab the brakes, it's hard to tell where's it's gonna go. (Does not pull to one side on flat, even road while cruising or breaking normally.)I've checked inner/outer tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, had a 4 wheel alignment, adjusted play in steering box and checked brakes.Someone please help me!!! One mechanic said that it's the wide tires. That the TTB front ends of late model Ford 4x4's are notorious for this. This is my first late model Ford. My 79 with 35's never did this!!!!! I'm afraid to let my wife drive the truck due to the unpredictability of it. And nope, it doesn't always wander to one side. It's random. Feel free to email me or post here or both! I need help!Sincerely,Chris Robinson

 

Check your Radius Arm Bushings. I have a 96 and the Left bushing had turned to what looked like gooy tar. With that bushing shot it allowed the left axle to move from front to back a bit causing mine to wander. It also takes up slack as the wheel moves up and down. An alignment wont help if you have worn parts. I just replaced my bushing and that seemed to correct the problem. Ford bushings seem way to soft. The next time I replace bushings I will use the polyeurethane bushings. I feel it needs a steering dampner to help hold things steady and hopefully I will get a little more solid feel up through the steering wheel. My tires are only 31x10.5's. Good Luck, Chris

 

Chris,

I will inspect the bushings more closely. Since the truck has 82k on it, guess it's time to replace all the front suspension bushings with new poly bushings. I got to thinking about it, what about the intermediate steering shaft that goes from the base of the steering column to the steering box? I also noticed that I'm seeing alot of sag in the front end. I may go with a new set of leveling coils up front since I'm tearing things apart.

Does anyone know if I'll have to make any other modifications to steering geometry if I raise the front end 1.5 - 2"?

Thanks,

Chris

 

OK,lets start from square 1.You said you had an offroad shop adjust your steering,the way to check this is to have someone turn the steering wheel while you watch the reaction to the steering linkage,(simply watch the steering gear box,when the steering shaft turns at the gear box,you should see an almost immediate response to the sector shaft,which the pitman arm is attatched to).If there appears to be a hesitation from side to side at that point then you need to adjust the pre load/mesh load adjustment at the steering gear box.You can also check at the time using the same observations to see if the coupelings at the intermediate shaft are sloppy.If the steering appears to be tight at the coupeling and the gear box adjustment,then it may be a poor bushing at the drag link ball studs or one or both of the tie link ball studs,if any of them are suspect change them all.Also check that there is not a loose or even broken upper or lower joint connector at the axle steering knuckle(steering connection at the hubs).In any case this may sound complicted but you should be able to visualy see wherever the problem is, by following the entire chain reaction from steering whhel to the wheels through close observation of the entire process while someone else slowly moves the wheel from side to side.The way you describe it does not sound like an alighnment problem or a sagging front suspension problem as you mentioned.Those problems probably do exhist as they are very common with the Ford IFS front suspension(we can deal with those problems later).But contrary to what your mechanics have told you,the Ford front end can adequately handle larger tires provided the steering and axle hub linkages have not failed or need adjusting.Try what I have mentioned and let us know the results.This problem is definitely solveable.I competetively run Mud Bogs with 36" and 38" tires on my F250 and though my suspension is radicaly modified it is still the same basic steering system.When I first lifted it I had to dial in all of the mentioned portions of my steering system to get it road freindly,(I wouldnt let my girlfriend drive it either),but once it was all squared away it handled then and still handles great on and off road.Let us know what you find.Later,
Jeff
super@sierratel.com

 

I almost forgot,there will not be any need to modify your steering with a lift up to about 2".After you go above that,you will want to at least install a drop down pittman arm.I would also strongly suggest that you install a steering stabilizer with the larger tires,(even if you dont lift the suspension.They are affordable and really help the inheirently weak,(or at the least tempermental)Ford IFS front end.
Jeff

 

Jeff, thanks for the feedback. I didn't mean to sound like the sagging front end was the issue. Just figured I would fix that too if I were tearing apart the front end to replace bushings.I adjusted the steering box because it did show too much play by observing as you mentioned. I did not at that time think to check the steering shaft play. I will do that.I had a shop to double check me on the front end and couldn't find anything either. I will go back and do as you outlined and will also pay particular attention to actual bushing integrity.Something else I realized and didn't mention. This truck was involved in a front end collision. The previous owner, an insurance agent no less, told me it was minor cosmetic damage. Grill , driver's side fender and door was dented. I was aware of that at time of purchase. They didn't need to replace any body panels, only the grill and lamp bezel. Anyway, this afternoon I noticed that the front bumber was no longer straight. Crawled underneath to look, figuring a bolt was gone. I saw that the bumper had metal shims to correct it's misalignment and had shifted. I started looking REAL close as to why shims were there and used a tape measure to check the crumple zones forward of the axle that the bumper mounts too because they looked compressed. Driver's side was way off and neither were straight. Now I'm wondering just how bad the damage REALLY was. I wonder if part of the front suspension was damaged. Only thing is these tires have 10k on them and aren't wearing unevenly! Probably 2x as good as my dad's unwrecked 94 F150 supercab!!! Oh well, I'll check those items and get back to you this afternoon.Thanks,Chris Robinson

 

Pop the hood. Have an assistant slowly turn the wheel back and forth, in the area of the slop, (turn the wheel till resistance is felt, then go the other way). Observe the 2 piece intermediate shaft. when I changed mine, the truck drove like new. The inner part of the intermediate shaft has a piece of teflon and a couple of springs to keep things snug. Mine fell out in peices, and you have to buy the entire assembly ($110). Borgeson makes an aftermarket assembly.

Don't know what type of tires you have.. if they are REAL agressive, they could cause problems, but I'd be my next paycheck that your intermediate shaft is spent. It's an easy fix.

 

Hi Everyone, I crawled up underneath the truck today to check the suggestions made. 1. The passenger's side radius arm bushing appears to have ruptured. ie. Still there but busted up real bad.2. The driver's side is in better shape but appears to be dry rotted.3. Inner/outer tie rods and such appear to be good.4. Couldn't really see the I-Beam bushings well enought to make a determination.5. Front shocks are shot. 6. There is some slop in the Steering shaft but not in the steering box.The tires are Sport King A/T's and not aggressive. So I think I'm gonna go for a new Borg Steering shaft, complete new front end bushing kit and since all that's torn apart - new leveling coil springs and new shocks all around.I don't want to tackle the spring job or the radius arm bushings. Anyone know how much labor would run on changing springs, radius arm and I-Beam bushings?Thanks for the help and I'll keep you posted.Chris

 

Chris, I haven't replaced the axle bushings but I did just replace the drivers side Radius arm bushing. At first I thought it was an impossible task. Several people at this site encouraged me to try and it ended up being pretty easy. I did it without help in a little under three hours. (help would be better) Next time would be much faster. After I took it apart it is really simple. The hardest part was breaking free the two 11/8 bolts that hold the spring and the front of the Radius arm on. I didn't have a 3/4 inch drive socket, thought I would snap the 1/2 inch drive, so I used a boxed end wrench. You will need two extentions to reach down inside the spring to loosen the top bolt that holds the bottom of the spring. The springs pop right out and go back in just as easy. Get a manual and follow the instructions. Make sure you use good jack stands high enough to get both front wheels off the ground. You will have to loosen the brake caliper and wire it up out of the way so the axle will drop way down. You will need a floor jack then to catch the loose axle and roll it forward to get to the back of the Radius Arm. Don't forget to use Locktite on the bolts going back together. When I got the new bushing in I couldnt get the steel washer and the nut started on the threads. I had to hook a Comalong to the Radius Arm and to the transfer skid plate. When I tightned the comalong it compressed the bushing exposing more threads to start the nut. Check out the urathane bushings. They are supposed to last the life of the truck and probably cheaper than OEM parts. With the money I save in labor, I buy more tools.
Chris

 

Hello Everyone! I'm driving myself nuts over this steering. The truck has 83k on it and I think since I'm getting ready to tear the front end apart for radius arm bushings, I'm gonna go ahead and replace the tierods, wheel bearings and ball joints and while I'm at it, put in a pair of leveling coils. I've checked the axle pivot bushings and they are in great shape. Replacing those parts should eliminate 'bout every possible factor. I'll just call it preventative maintenance!

I'll keep you posted on how it goes. Thanks for all your help!

Chris R.

 

I have been following the discussion on wandering with great interest because I have experience an almost imperceptable wander with my '93 F150 4x4, LWB, style side with standard tires and 83K miles. Surely not the dressers that some of the guys are running but a truck in beautiful shape. There is no evidence of unusual tire wear indicating an alignment problem---yet.
That's the problem description as far as I know.
I just finished sandblasting the entire under-carriage, frame and body in preparation for treating the metal with POR15, including those nice crap collection area over the rear wheels.
The POR15 has been applied (two (2) coats and I am ready, that is was ready until I somehow finalized an old back injury which required surgery for correction.
During the sandblasting, I decided to clean the oil pan which had been dented sometime in the past and showed signs of oil seepage. Well friends that oil seepage was due to a crack developing rust and with a little persuasion I now have a full bore hole and resultant oil leak, not seepage.
Now my question: I plan on rebushing the front end with polyurethane bushings which I already have. What I am wondering is if I drop the front suspension to install the bushings, will there be sufficient space to replace the oil pan without having to loosen the motor mounts and jack the engine?
If so, I think that I will replace the front springs as well and have the rears re-arched and leaves added to give me some additional height on the truck. I do plan on installing a moderate body lift kit in the near future, that's next fall's project.
Thanks for any hints or directions in advance. I'm sure glad to have found this forum. You guys are great!
Ron