I did multiple searches and found bits and pieces but not the whole answer.

My truck has a step bumper w / 1 7/8" ball, a what I consider a small factory looking auxillary tranny cooler on the passenger side maybe 4"x10", single shock front, and no rear swaybar. There is a two pin pigtail in the drivers stake pocket (I figure for a topper brake light) but no typical trailer wiring harness that I can see (4 or 7 pin).


I was told the previous owner did tow a small fishing boat with it.

My manual referred to two tow packages, a 2000# and a 3500#, but only referenced certian packages, not specific equipment.

Is there a connector for a four pin harness or do I have to splice into the brake light wiring?

I am going to get a receiver put on tonight to tow a car trailer, Do I need to upsize the tranny cooler and add or do anything else?

 

If your truck has trailer package, it will have the 7 pin wiring harness on the driver's side inner frame rail at the rear. It's possible someone cut the actual connecter off, as many people installed 6 pin "pollack" plugs instead at the time.

 

you shouldnt need to splice anyways. at the back there is a plug that unplugs and the you can add in the trailer light hook up.

 

Hoppy and other adapters are available at parts stores and even WalMart that just plug in. You disconnect where the taillight T is on the rear frame crossmember and just plug in the adapter using the dielectric grease (to keep out moisture and corrosion) and bolt up a ground wire to the frame. Adapters are available in 4 flat, 4 round, 6 round, 7 round, and 7 spade. If you have an electronic trailer brake controller, you'll need to run a seperate wire for the trailer brakes to the controller. Same if you want an auxillary light as interior of horse trailer. Run power from fuse box, cigarette lighter, or battery or similar depending on if you want continuous power on "key on" only. Most trailer tow packages also have a connector for the brake controller located under dash for ~'95 models. It's black/dark gray 6 prong male square and should be right of accelerator under radio/ashtry.

Depending on your engine/trans/rear axle and what you tow before I can answer on other mods. E4OD is fine stock, AOD-E might need a cooler if you max out your tow capacity. Codes for axle and trans are located on door opening.

 

i have a question that ties in here. how do i know if my trailer brakes are going or if its the eletric brake box is going. somtimes the little lighht on the box will come on when applying the brakes and other times it wont. plus there will be times the trailer barkes will lock up but under the same conditions they wont. Also isnt there supose to be an adjuster on the brake box?

 

First, if you need a brake controller, try this http://www.brakecontroller.com/ . They are cheaper than my local parts stores and a division of Southwest Wheel. I'd check for out put from the brake controller with a voltmeter. Sometimes my light didn't work on my old Tekonsha Mark 12 but brakes did. Depends on how old the controller is and what is going out. It could just be light circuit inside the box. More than likely it is the controller going out or it has dirt inside and the pendulum is stuck at times. If you don't get voltage out to the trailer brakes, try cleaning inside if possible. Use compressed air or just shake hard if the case won't come apart. If you can't get voltage to the brakes, then change controller. And yes, they do adjust and most adjust in 2 places. The Mark 12 and Mark 24 adjusted with a dial on bottom toward back right. Roll it forward/back until light just flickers when brakes are applied. If you need more brakes when loaded, there is a another adjuster on front top and left to set Min. 1 thru 5. On my newer Voyager XP (~$90), you set level then power. The above link has operator's manuals for most controllers that you can download in .pdf and print. I use Tekonsha only but Hayes is also a good controller depending on what you are pulling and how many axles. I set my HD trucks up for 3 axles. My lighter trucks won't ever pull that much so I use a cheaper box but the Voyager XP will handle all of my uses. It replaces the Mark 24 and the Voyager (no XP) will replace Mark 12.

Normally, I adjust under load, e.g. selling cattle or moving equip., then the brakes will be too strong empty and lock up so I have to adjust back down. I would think that sometimes you are getting voltage to the brakes when they lock up and other times you have no brakes due to a faulty wire, splice, or controller. Get the Voltage to show up every time you step on the brakes then adjust the controller. It could also be that voltage isn't always going into the controller. I prefer to wire my own instead of using Ford's connector under the dash.

 

thanks