For some time I have suspected the bigger FL-1A would fit my wife's 3.0 Aerostar, which is specified to get the tiny FL-400S (S apparently stands for small). Last night I pulled the 400S and using calipers measured the FL-1A gasket and found it will fit the gasket mating surface of the 3.0 V6. The only problem was the starter hot cable stuck out near the filter and it would fit but be too close for comfort. No problem, I disconnected the negative cable from the battery, loosened the hot lead, swung the hot cable around about 90 degrees, and retightened the lead. Now the lead is not sticking out by the filter. I screwed a FL-1A on for fitment and it is perfect. No clearance problems, at least 5/8 inches all the way around, easy to tighten by hand, and about 1 inch clearance to exhaust pipe. But since I had another 400S and was only part way through an oil change, I put the new 400S on and will start the FL-1As next oil change. The FL1A is about 2/3 greater capacity. The pleats in the FL-400S are 7/16" deep, whereas the FL-1A pleats are 3/4" deep. Should give much freer flow, I would think. Price is about the same.

 

But what does the bypass valve open at (PSI) on the FL400S vs the FL1A?

I use the FL400S on my 150 as well and I've never really thought of it as that small. You should see some of the filters that I have had on my Hondas and Nissans. Now those are SMALL.

 

I suspect it is the same. If the oil pressure spec is similar for both vehicles, it should work. The 400S looks small to me because all my other Ford vehicles always used the FL-1A.

 

Paul,
Like Brons2, I'd wonder about the bypass valve. But, in general, I'd wonder; if the FL-1A fits and works, why would Ford use the FL-400?
Makes me wonder.... there might be something we're not thinking of here.
I'm guilty of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" in this case.
I'd stick w/ the FL-400.

Thanks.

 

Maybe they just did it because it is a smaller engine, and in some applications, say 4wd or Ranger pickups, it may not have clearance. The FL1A is used on the 4.0, though I understand that is a totally different block.

 

I wonder how they decide what filter to use. My 89 3.0 L Aerostar takes the FL-400S but my '87 2.3 L Ranger takes the FL-1A......weird...........

-Matt

 

I compared the return springs on several filters for my pickup truck which takes FL-1A with a FL-400S. I could not detect a difference between the spring tension on the FL-1A and the FL-400S, nor the Purolator, but the Wix filter seemed a tad stiffer and the spring wire even looked a bit thicker. Frankly I don't see a problem with running a FL-1A on the 3.0 V6, though I will research a bit more. Have a couple thousand miles before the next change. Looking at the filter selection charts in the Auto Parts store I see that the older Aerostars that had 2.8 and 2.9 (2.9?--never heard of that one in an Aerostar), both take FL-1A. I think it is a physical space issue, perhaps as evidenced by my having to move the starter hot cable to make space for the wider FL-1A. But hey, either filter costs the same, right? So why not run the bigger one?

 

I can think of one negative to using the larger filter:

When changing the oil, it will take longer to fill the larger filter on a dry start. This will result in more wear....

 

Bob, I understand your reasoning, but consider this. There is a significant amount of oil film strength coating the moving parts of an engine when you drain the oil during the oil changing routine. Then, even though the new oil filter is dry, you have already poured 4 1/2 to 5 quarts of fresh oil through the top of the engine, hence providing even more start up lubrication. this is why, I beleive no manufacturer recomends in their owners manuel that the oil filter MUST be filled prior to starting. The only scenerio I would feel you have concern for start up wear (as you stated) would be if you changed the oil and filter, then did not start up the engine for a month in cold, winter temperatures. An empty new filter, then, might cause some wear issues. Just my opinion... ED

 

Plus, I try to prefill whenever possible. Even though the oil filter is on the side of my 89 3.0L Aerostar I try to prefill at least half way. Every little bit helps.

-Matt

 

You ought to see the 7-inch-long F700 filter I am putting on the pickup! Talk about a long time filling. But not to worry, I prefill all my filters.

OK. I walked into Meyers auto parts dept. There was a Purolator Filter Catalog from which I obtained the following:

92 Aerostar 3.0 oil filter: L20195

95 F150 4.9 L oil filter: L30001

Specifications in back of catalog:

L20195
Connection Size: 3/4-16, UNF-2B
Flow Rate (GPM): 3
Relief Valve Pressure (PSI): 8 - 11

L30001
Connection Size: 3/4-16, UNF-2B
Flow Rate (GPM): 4
Relief Valve Pressure (PSI): 8 - 11

So they are fully interchangable and you get better flow with the larger filter. Same price, I am running the bigger filter. I also think the smaller filter gasket does not line up to the 3.0s mount because there is a crud ring around the outside of the mating surface. I will measure next time the filter is off and am guessing the smaller filters gasket hanges over the inside edge--perhaps a poor application for some engineer who was worried somebody would change the starter and ground with the filter.

BTW, this Purolator spec table is very valuable as there are a number of filters that do not have the bypass valve, presumably the cars they fit have it built into the oil filter mount.

 

The "S" in the FL-400S means the gaslet has a silicone lubricant on it.

I've often wondered about the FL-1A, since it has been standard Ford filter for how many years. I use the FL-400S on my '91 Ranger w/3.0 along with Mobil 1 synthetic oil. I love that stuff! My truck has 168,000+ miles on it and NO sludge build-up of any kind. I change it every 10,000 miles or so, and the filter every 2-3000 miles, and sometimes I woder if I even have to do that. The engine continues to run better than the Eveready bunny

My question, though; I always use Motorcraft oil filters. Is this necessary, or are other brands as well suited for Fords?

Bob

 

Go to this thread. There are links posted there to summary and detaild versions of an oil filter study: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=164725

 

Well, I have heard there are many good oil filters out there but for the price of a Motorcraft you can't beat them. They are pretty good and in all the work trucks I change the oil on, oil pressure has gone up by using them and not a FRAM, Quaker State or other generic filter.

-Matt

 

Paul, I worked at the lube rack part time for several years and the FL1A was not a suitable sub for the FL400S or vice versa. Check your threads on your filters. I am almost positive they are different. I remember checking this out once. They are very close but a different thread. Maybe I'm wrong. I hope so.