So...my wife & oldest daughter pull in the driveway 2 days ago and tell me, "the Aerostar's running hot." No kidding? Steam is escaping from somewhere behing the right headlight. I opened up the hood and tried to see the source but couldn't find anything. After it cooled down, there was nearly no coolant in the radiator or overflow tank. I filled up both with water and did not see an immediate leak. I wait until it cooled off (next morning), and still did not see a source for the leak.

Are there any particular components that would create steam (and some smoke) inside the right side of the engine compartment (behind the right headlight)?

Radiator leak? Drain valve seeping? Anyone have this happen, ever?

Sorry for the lack of detail.

Thanks!!!
Tim

 

One of the heater hoses is the most likely culprit. Replace both hoses to be safe.

 

Pump up the cooling system with one of those pressure testers to find the leak. You can borrow or rent one from some auto parts stores.

The heater hoses are behind the air filter box. Those, and the upper radiator hose are all on the passenger side of the engine compartment.

 

Excellent analysis, Bear!

I just walked out to the Aerostar, opened the hood and examined those two hoses. I had looked at these two hoses several times, but it didn't occur to me to handle them and check condition. The top one is totally gummy. I could probably tear it in half if I worked at it. Obviously these two heater hoses are the culprit. This is good news.

Thanks to Bear and Xlt4wd90 guy.

If this had been a big snake, I would have been eaten alive.

Thanks again gents. This forum is awesome.



Tim

 

Those factory hoses are a bit of a trick to pull off, even with the right tools. If they are indeed dead, I would just break off the plastic quick-connect fittings on the ends. You can replace them with the Ford originals with the same quick-connect fittings. Or you can get regular hoses and clamps, which will be a lot cheaper, and there is a chance you can pull them off later without destroying them.

 

TG-Hose bad before the heater valve or after?
The reason I ask is mine failed at the top connector area.
The plastic valve that the heater hoses connect to go bad.
I replaced mine with 2 small pieces of pipe. Problem solved.
The factory way-is crap. They will give you a long tool with a clip to catch right behind the connection and yada yada yada etc.....If you are going to keep this ride I would do as XLT suggested.
Pull the hose off-wear gloves and brace yourself. The brass solder
holds pretty good. Install a new heater core and then clamp on a couple
of new heater hoses. This is a real trick. Patience is a must. Small 1/4" drive set-up is what you need.

 

Actually, the only things that keep those plastic fittings together are these nylon clips that bear against a ridge swaged onto the metal tube and a couple of ridges of plastic on the ends of the fittings. It's pretty easy to break those little plastic ridges by jamming a flat blade screw driver against them and twist. Then you can just pull the fittings off the nipples on the heater core (or pipes on the other end). There is enough length on the nipples for you to slip new hoses onto them and holding them in place with hose clamps.

 

There is a plastic valve attached to the heater core hoses right close to the passenger wheel arch, just follow the two hoses from the water pump. It does crack , mine failed about 3 years back & I thought I'd found my disappearing coolant problem. I did as Boz said & took the valve out & put in replacement straight pipes. Keep the heater control on cold when not needed.

I'd recommend a coolant flush & change, when you have it all back together. I just did mine & was shocked by the state of the rusted water which came out of the cooling system. This will eventually kill the engine if not corrected. One thing which many fail to account for is when you completely flush & refill via flushing tee & have the engine running, if you don't drain the block afterwards, 50/50 ready-mixed AFC cannot be used, since residual water in the block will dilute this too much. Take account of the total system capacity & add 50% of concentrate to the system & then top up with distilled water. This will ensure correct coolant strength. Every 2 years this time is well spent.

Aeroman