Ok Folks, I have a stubborn set of heads that apearanty the PO glued down pretty well. Any hints on removal tricks that I can employ. The long pry bar is just not going to cut in these guys
Thanks! --MG

 

You do have the plugs removed? Beyond that, the big pry bar is already more agressive than most of us would try. I'd pull any plugs, pull the manifold if not already, get soem good penetrating lube, tap the ends (any non-sealing surface area) lightly with a hammer, repeat as necesary. Then use a screw driver gently at the ends if needed.

 

Also, no flame intended, make sure you have all the bolts out!

I saw in the "How to rebuild SB Chevy book" a head split completely down the length of the exhaust, because the guy pried it with a bar. He thought it was stuck.

The most obvious sometimes gets over looked,,,,

Tim

 

after everything is out I just use a rachet handle in the intake port and light tugs to loosen it up

 

There are indentions on the bottom of the head about 1/3 of the way from each end. They are made for sticking a prybar in and I have never had a problem getting any heads off. Find a picture of some FE heads online that show the bottom and you will know what I am talking about.

Edit: Just did some looking around and some have the prybar slots in close to the center. Including the C8AE-H. My D2TE-AA heads had them spaced as stated above.

 

Here's a C4AE-G



Hey Sean, I never noticed the different locations.

Barry

 

How did I know that you'd post a pic for us Barry? I have been looking around and most FE heads are like the ones you posted. I could swear my D2 heads had them right in front of the intake valve there. I may have lost some of my memory in one of the local bars in Korea here. I dunno.

 

You guys are making me feel bad. But I know there are some slots on the ends as well. There are some on my Ed Heads and I recall some on my stockers.

 

I remember prying on a set of junk heads in the junkyard for about 45 minutes one day and I couldn't get the heads off this rusty FE. I was beating them like crazy becasue all I wanted them for was to practice porting so I wasn't trying to be careful. I went and got one of those "bigger than you would ever need for a screw" screw drivers and pounded it into the little slot there. The head came right off.

 

You all are the best!

I was actually trying to pry up under the exhaust manifold as to not damage the head. The little info about the slot is where I'm heading next. I tapped a set off before with no problem, but wedged the srewdriver under a tab that was on the front face of the head. Thinking that only works for the driver side though, as the passenger side would have that in the back of the motor. I found some pristine D2's in the yard and all the bolts removed without a hitch! $50 spent will be well saved in agrevation and tools to remove the broken studs in my other heads

--Mike G

 

They are on both sides of the head on the intake side. They are either close to the center or spaced evenly between the ends.

 

I must say that knowledge is the most powerful tool we have.

At the sacrifice of a small wooden handle screwdriver, the parts gods are again smiling down upon the masses!

There were two tabs in the middle portion of the heads (D2's).

--Mike

 

I can't begin to tell you all the merits of a heavy, sand filled rubber mallet. Gentil yet persuasive ....