48 – 60 Ford Front Suspension Alternatives

The purpose of this note is identify all the “common” alternatives for front suspension suitable for use in 48 – 60 Ford trucks. Folks new to this forum and contemplating IFS, should read this note carefully THEN start new threads to ask any additional questions about the alternatives.

This information has been compiled by the “regulars” on this forum, in most cases based upon actual hands experience installing and using the various alternatives discussed. The intent of this note is provide an un-biased overview of each of the alternatives providing you with information to assist you to narrow down the alternatives based upon your particular circumstances (i.e. budget, experience, welding capabilities, intended use of the truck, drive train etc.) It is not our intent to say that any particular system is “better” than another or “better” than the stock straight axle assembly.

This overview is a summary of more detailed (and possibly less objective) information found in numerous posts started approx. 9/30/2003 and entitled “Pro’s and Con’s of xxxxx IFS”. Do a search or peel back to that time period to see these posts for additional info.

Based upon input from individuals that have actually installed examples listed below, we will identify the level of difficulty of the installations –

1. = Someone that has never done any serious mechanical work of a restoration or modification nature.
(Can barely spell – street rodder)
2. = Someone that has done some mechanical work of a restoration or modification nature but has never installed a modified front suspension in a vehicle before. May not be able to weld but knows a welder.
3. = Someone that has restored or modified several vehicles in their past and fully understands the phrase “measure 3 times, cut once”. Has not done a seriously modified front end swap previously.
4. = Someone that has restored or modified several vehicles in their past including serious frame modifications. Is an accomplished welder or has access to one. Goes were some others fear to tread.
5. = Someone that has seriously modified or restored more vehicles than they can count. Probably lost their first wife due to the amount of time they devoted to restoration/street rodding. Classic Trucks Magazine probably has them on speed dial.

Regardless of your level of expertise, we make no warrants as to your ability to successfully install any of these alternatives. Additionally, we cannot stress enough how critical it is that you measure everything VERY carefully and follow the kit (when used) supplier’s instructions precisely. Your suspension is not the place to take shortcuts. Catastrophic failure can and has resulted from improper modifications of suspensions. An honest assessment of your experience level and budget is required before undertaking ANY suspension modifications.

In no particular order, the common alternatives are –

1. Stock leaf spring and straight axle front suspension that Henry delivered them with
2. Mustang II IFS
3. Gibbon’s Cordoba IFS
4. Corvette IFS
5. Dakota IFS
6. Ford Aerostar IFS
7. GM Clip IFS
8. Ford Clip IFS
9. “Volare” IFS

For IFS, you can expect to spend some time on the following tasks;

A. Removal of the stock straight axle assembly, front leaf springs and steering box from your truck. Depending upon your tools and expertise, this should be doable in 4 hrs or less.
B. While SOME of these alternatives can be done with the front sheet metal in place, some simply can’t and some are a considerably easier with the front sheet metal off your truck. Depending upon the condition of your vehicle this could take as long as several days (Can you say “rust”, “bondo” and “welded in place” ?)
C. Removal of the donor clip or IFS assembly or IFS components from the donor vehicle. This can range from a few hours to a day or so.

Summaries of alternatives follow -

 

Considerations of a Stock Straight Axle

An overview of the aspects of leaving things just as Henry built it – leaf springs, straight axle, and manual drum brakes and manual steering. A point to keep in mind is that the decision as to whether to remain with the stock front assembly or a portion of it has different factors for consideration depending upon whether you are a restorer or a “rodder” or somewhere in between.

Let us start by killing some common myths associated with the stock straight axle suspension. Are you contemplating removal of your straight axle (S.A.) because it requires use of both lanes? The 48-60 forum members affectionately refer to this as the “Drunken Monkey” suspension. We don’t care what you have heard; this is not the way it left the Ford assembly line some 50 years ago. If your truck wanders, it is in need of immediate inspection and rebuild of worn components. Loose steering is not “nostalgic” or normal, it is dangerous and demands your immediate attention. A properly rebuilt stock suspension may completely meet your needs. That decision is yours, after you have the facts and opinions of this writing and have asked your questions as necessary.

Benefits of the Stock Straight Axle.-

1. Time-tested strength. The definition of “Built Ford Tough”
2. It is the stock suspension which is critical for restorers
3. Lots of clearance for engine swaps for rodders.
4. Relatively easy to service. Completely rebuild brakes, steering and suspension in a weekend.
5. Low cost – can generally be completely rebuilt for $450. to $850 (includes brakes and suspension).
This is cheaper than any other alternative (rebuilt as well). That is to say – you likely cannot install ANY
alternative and completely rebuild it’s wear sensitive parts for less money than rebuilding the stock set up.
6. Many people (especially restorers) like the feel of driving with the stock steering and suspension.
7. If you’re not a purist, you can upgrade to power steering and/or disc brakes.
8. Rebuild parts are relatively easy to find.

Stock straight axle features you may or may not wish to address:

1. Even when rebuilt, the stock braking system is inferior to other alternatives. An especially serious consideration if you’re putting in a more powerful drive train and perhaps driving it more aggressively.
2. General condition of components is critical to the level of handling. A straight axle seems to be more sensitive to worn components than with the alternative IFS choices.
3. For high performance use, the handling is inferior to the alternative set ups.
4. Manual steering and brakes require more effort than power assisted alternatives. As previously stated, this may be desired by some truck owners.
5. You will never eliminate the “Bump Steer” inherent with this type on suspension setup, at best it can be made manageable.

For non-purists, you can upgrade your brakes, ride height or steering with kits available from numerous suppliers using all new parts or a combination of brackets and donor parts. The vast choices can’t be adequately explored here. A very broad overview follows. Price ranges from $300-800 for a complete power steering conversion kit. An estimated price for a complete power disk brake conversion kit is in the $400-900 neighborhood. The lower end prices assume you use some used donor parts such as brake boosters and pedals (if using hanging style). Another alternative is the use on non-power disk brakes and or non-power steering box upgrades, both at the lower end of the above mentioned cost. The price range to drop a straight axle suspension also varies widely from the use of drop axles (($350) to partially or completely redesigned leaf springs. ($150-450)

Most routine maintenance and rebuild can be done without the use of special tools, those needed, can usually be rented for a local parts supply house.

Difficulty level to perform a stock suspension rebuild- 2

For more details, or to participate in the ongoing stock straight axle discussion: Please click here

 

Overview of the Mustang II IFS set up –

This chapter looks at the alternative which uses the IFS components from 74 – 80 Mustang II and Pinto’s. This set up is probably the most popular and unquestionably the most supported (by the after market), alternative of all of them. Advertisements in classic truck and street rod magazines are more plentiful than those hateful subscription cards that fall out every time you pick them up.

To clarify, the basic set up consists of using the A-arms, steering rack, spindles and brakes together with an after market cross member. Fancier versions of the kit are available up to the point where almost no donor car components are used – everything is supplied either refurbished or remanufactured. The basic kit (cross member only ) starts around $350.00 USD and run up to a full blown, self contained assembly at around $2,700.00 USD

Benefits –

1. Reasonable supply of Mustang II/Pinto donors out there.
2. Easily upgradeable brakes (through the after market) from mild to wild.
3. Very clean look.
4. Huge after market support means components should be available for a long time to come.
5. Front steer system for better steering.
6. Available with manual or power steering – both are Rack & Pinion.
7. Compact design for extra clearance under chassis for engines and headers
8. Huge level of installed base and installation support. You’re not navigating uncharted waters.
9. It is 100% Ford.
10. If you’re a good scrounger and welder, it can be done fairly cheaply.
11. Gives a reasonable lowering of front end safely.
12. Good ride and handling.
13. With the use of coil-overs, comes ease of ride height adjustability. A simple turn of the spring/shock nut and you can change the ride height 4-5 inches.
14. .Ease of changing springs. Take out upper shock bolt and a pin and you can have a spring changed in a couple of minutes. Cushy ride or you're sporting a 302?--put in the light springs. going racing or you've got the 460?--install the heavy springs



Concerns -

1. There have been documented failures of after market cross members. While there are a plethora of kit
manufacturers, some kits are better than others. Thorough research of cross member vendors is
necessary. Not all kits are created equal. Do your homework before you buy. Get feedback on any
of the numerous forums to ensure you know who’s kits are good and who’s are not. (See note below)
2. In the rust belt especially, donors can be harder to find. (Also due to the sheer demand for the
components from others before you). (After market copies are easily obtainable however.)
3. The stock 9” brakes are not sufficient for our application. You need to upgrade. . On the plus side,
mid-sized GM rotors from 68-72 bolt on to the stock spindles if you use the GM bearings and races,
so you can easily match the 4 3/4 bolt pattern of a GM rear end (if you have chosen to go that route)
and they give you 11 inch brake rotors for very good stopping, so you don't have to spend a fortune.
4. Some kits require additional gusseting for strength if you are using tubular control arms and no strut rods.
5. You have to experiment with coil springs to get the correct ride height and comfortable ride. Although, the newer setups with coil over shocks seem to take a some of the guesswork out.
6. Some folks like to eliminate the “ugly” strut rods. You can run them without them and be completely safe…with the proper upgrade/modifications. There are also design problems with the strut rods that cause some binding in the suspension travel if they aren’t done properly.
7. You need to be a competent welder. If you’re not, find one – you and your family’s lives depend upon it. (as is the case with any other alternative except perhaps the Cordoba set up as it’s a bolt in).
8. A front sway bar is highly recommended, although this holds true for all of the alternatives.
9. There is a considerable weight difference between an F1/F100 and a stock Mustang II or Pinto. The better kits compensate for this. The stock Ford cross member does not. You do not want to simply cut and stretch the original Ford cross member.


NOTE - While there have been (approx. 5) failures documented on this and (more so) other forums, the actual cause of said failures has not been properly/fully determined. They could be due to inferior components, poor installation, severe use or ???.

Estimate of installation time - .

Boxing plates for frame... I boxed from front cross member to just before the cab mounts... making patterns and preparing 1/8" sheet (cutting and grinding to fit) 2 hours. The closer you can cut the faster you can grind to fit. Plasma cutters are better than sex when it comes to boxing plates.

Welding in plates... depends on duty cycle of welder and welder... figure an hour if you don't stop for beer.

Fitting of cross member. ... Leveling frame both directions, Measurements, fitting, measuring again, clamping in place , measuring again, tacking in place, measuring again, measuring again . final welding and grinding to finish 4-6 hours. This is starting from a bare frame rail... removal of sheet metal, engine etc... will add significantly to this estimate..

Attaching all suspension parts... 2 hours... which includes trips to the parts store to swap bearings or pads...

Fabrication and installation of mods to strengthen lower control arms and cross member ... 1 month (included in that are 28 days of figuring out what to do... actual fab/weld time 8 hours).


Skill Level - 3 or better.

For more details, or to participate in the ongoing Mustang II IFS discussion: Please click here

 

Cordoba IFS –

Background on the Gibbon’s "Cordoba" IFS system -

Using a cross-member kit available only from Gibbons ) (a division of the fiberglass folks), for approx. $575.00USD (as of 10/2003) you can adapt the longitudinal torsion bar IFS from the "Cordoba" to 48 - 56 Ford trucks.

The unique factor related to the “Cordoba” set up is that it is almost entirely a bolt in installation. One minor bit of welding is required and it can be done on the components off site – that is, welding the sockets into the rear cross-member can be done at a welder’s shop – your truck need not be present. Without a doubt, one of the easier IFS alternatives to install. Appropriate for a first time rodder.

The donor cars are -
75-79 Chrysler Cordoba
73-74 Plymouth Belvedere, GTX, Road Runner, Satellite, Fury
73-78 Dodge Charger, Superbee

Donor components used are -
Spindles and brakes (11 3/4" discs)
A-Arms, Steering box (power), all the steering linkage
Torsion bars and sockets, sway bar

Features -
1. Excellent ride for and decent handling for a truck, very similar to a mid-sized car.
2. The cross-member(s) kit from Gibbons is well made and easy to install. Almost no welding
and VERY little grinding or drilling is needed to install the gibbons kit. Instructions provided
are excellent and it would be difficult to screw up the installation.
3. Gives you 12" disc brakes (11.75 inches actually) and power steering
4. Somewhat adjustable ride height and suspension firmness within a reasonable range.
5. Donor cars weight similar to an F100, truck should retain most of it’s stock hauling capabilities.
6. No known safety issues reported
7. Gives you a light, professional looking set up, as do some other alternatives
8. Not a permanent mod, the frame must only be notched in a VERY minor way. You could conceivably go back to stock afterwards with little evidence of the Gibbon’s set up ever having been there.

What the critics are saying -

1. Depending upon where you live (i.e. the rust belt) , the donors are becoming more difficult to find.
2. Total cost to install including rebuilding the donor components can run from $1,200 to a high of $2,000
based upon difficulty of finding a donor and whether it's components are shot. If you spend $2K, then
you must have used the most worn out donor on the face of the earth.
3. Not a Ford suspension. Torsion bars do not have the Ford look to them.
4. Not well supported by the aftermarket. Few show quality components available.
5. Possible interference issues with the steering box if installing a big block. Always test fit engines with exhaust in place to lesson the chance of interference issues.
6. Expensive ($450. Pr circa 2003) drop spindles required to slam it properly. Simply dropping the torsion bar adjustment will result in a soft ride and degraded handling.

Difficulty of installation level - 2

Average installation time - excluding stripping donor or stripping original straight axle assy – within one weekend easily

For more details, or to participate in the ongoing "Cordoba IFS" discussion: Please click here

 

Overview of the “Volare” Alternative –

This alternative involves unbolting the front suspension assembly from the appropriate donor vehicle and welding it into the F1/F100 truck. The stock frame is notched along the bottom and grafted to the Volare K-member..

Donors include -

F-body – 1976 - 1980 Volare, Aspen, Roadrunner R/T

J-body – 1980 - 1983 Cordoba, Mirada, Imperial

M-body – generally 1977 – 1989, see below
Caravelle (Cdn Plymouth model) 1977-1981
Lebaron 1977 - 1981
New Yorker 1982
New Yorker 5th Ave 1983 – 1987
5th Ave. 1988 – 1989
Diplomat 1977 – 1989
Town & Country – 1977 - 1981
Gran Fury 1982 – 1989

The Cordoba donor listed above is NOT the same style of IFS as is discussed in the “Gibbon’s Cordoba overview”. In this alternative the torsion bars run in a 90 degree angle rather than front to back.

Benefits -

1. Low cost
2. Exceptional ride and respectable handling for a bulky truck, very similar to a mid-sized car.
3. Adjustable ride height within a reasonable range. (3-5 inches is typical)
4. Easy to moderately difficult to install safely.
5. Donor cars weight similar to an F100
6. Excellent safety record to our knowledge
7. 10 7/8” brakes standard, easy upgrade to 11 3/4" with older Cordoba yard parts.
8. Easy removal of donor suspension. Involves cutting brake lines, disconnecting steering (one bolt),
disconnecting the four large bolts holding the K-member and removing the driver’s side upper arm.
10. Volare track width is almost perfect for 53 and later.
11. Wheel bolt pattern is 5 X 4/12 which is same as many later Fords, however the hub diameter is larger
than Ford so aftermarket or Mopar style wheels are required to have interchangeability between all four.
12. There is a very good video available commercially from No Limit Engineering that thoroughly illustrates the install procedure. We highly recommend the video be used. Additionally, templates (of questionable value) are also available.
13. This is a very common modification for over twenty years. Lot’s of help from others before you is available. Many shops do this work on an ongoing basis (i.e. Bob’s F100 and No Limit Eng.)
14. In addition to the 10.75" disc brakes, the "Volare" IFS also gives you power steering (which we
believe/understand/know can be used with the later Ford power steering pump). A PS cooler may be advisable for some pumps due to heat issues.

What the critics are saying.

1. With a smooth ride comes mediocre handling. It doesn't corner like a sports car. Most ride complaints can be attributed to inadequate pre-load adjustment of the torsion bars for a “budget slam”
2. Semi-permanent mod, the frame must be notched. It could be changed to a Camaro, LTD IFS and little else. Considerable effort would be required to return to stock.
3. Not a Ford suspension. Torsion bars do not have the Ford look to them.
4. Good fabrication and welding skills are necessary for a neat install. Finished job is still not considered a “Show Suspension” such as Mustang II, Corvette or Jaguar.
5. Big block engines have been installed, but clearance issues with PS box make it a tight fit.
6. While the "Volare" IFS gives you the same 5 X 4.5 bolt pattern that is common to many later Ford rear
axles, the larger diameter Mopar hub may force you to use aftermarket rims. Re-drilling Volare rotors to stock 5X 5 & 1/2 pattern probably not possible.
7. Volare width is a bit wide for 48-52. Has been done many times but does have some fitment issues.
8. Expensive ($450 pair circa 2003) drop spindles required to slam it properly. Simply dropping the torsion bar pre-load adjustment will result in a very soft ride and poor handling.


Special Notes –

1. It is critical for good handling that the assembly be installed with a rearward tilt of 4 to 5 degrees to ensure proper anti-dive (positive castor) characteristics under braking. Not that difficult to do and well explained in the video.

2. If you don’t mind the “Mopar” look all over your truck, you can save bags of money if you buy a donor car rather than just the K-member. This will give you a suitable master cylinder and vacuum booster, hanging brake pedal assy, proportioning valve, tilt steering column and four wheels and tires to sit your baby on during the coming years/months that it remains unfinished.


Cost estimate - We’ll assume you don’t buy an entire donor car. Volare IFS can and has bee installed for under $500. If your donor clip is worn, you can expect to spend up to $1000 including complete rebuild of the steering and brake parts. Purchasing a late 80’s donor can save you substantial money.

Average installation time – A low of 25 hours to a high of 65 hours.

Level of expertise required – 3 and a good MIG welder.

For more details, or to participate in the ongoing "Volare IFS" discussion: Please click here

 

Dakota overview

Only Industrial Chassis offers a cross-member kit to adapt the 1986-88 Dodge Dakota truck IFS to 1948 through 1966 Ford trucks.

The cross-member kit is available for $675.USD ( circa 10/2003) and requires you to provide the donor components- A-arms, steering box, spindles , rotors and calipers, etc.

Or it can be purchased as a hub to hub assy for approx. $2,750.USD.

Benefits -

1. Donor vehicle is actually a truck of similar weight capacity.
2. Change in ride height: minus 2" to the front end (also dropped spindles available for approx. $170.)
3. Handling: enormous increase in ride stability and ease of steering
4. Braking: significantly better; stopping distance versus stock reduced by 50-60%.

Concerns:

1. Bolt pattern is different than stock pattern therefore requiring front wheels probably different from rear wheels.
2. Installing a fairly common Ford 302 required new mini-starter and block hugger headers to fit. It is very likely there may be clearance issues with a big block engine.
3. Requires significant welding to attach cross-member to frame. This requires good welding skills and precision measurements.
4. While the donor vehicle is somewhat newer than some other systems, the range of years for the donor is only 2.
5. Depending upon where you live , the donors may be difficult and expensive to find
6. Total cost to install including rebuilding the donor components can run from $1,200 to a high of $2,000
based upon difficulty of finding a donor and whether it's components are shot. If you spend $2.K then
you must have replaced every single moving component from the donor with brand new pieces.
7. Not a Ford suspension. (In case you’re a purist that prefers everything be FORD)
8. Requires a dual sump oil pan and appropriate oil pump.

Ease of installation –

Installation time – 12 - 20 hours of actual work time depending upon your mechanical and welding skills. This includes installing the donor components.

For more details, or to participate in the ongoing "Dakota IFS" discussion: Please click here

 

Overview of the Ford Aerostar “clip” alternative.

This alternative involves adapting the front suspension from a 1986 through 1997 Ford Aerostar mini-van to the Ford trucks. Not a true clip job in the normal sense as it involves adapting the donor front suspension to the earlier Ford truck frame. It requires some fabrication and welding.


Benefits -

1. It uses a Ford donor, so your truck remains all Ford.
2. Donors are plentiful and cheap in most areas. Ford Aerostars are not presently valued as collectible.
3. Age of donor is newer than many other IFS alternatives which may mean wear parts are in better condition.
4. Potentially improved handling with R & P steering, and power disc brakes.
5. People that have done the install say it is relatively easy compared to other IFS options.
6. Gives you the Ford 5 on 4 & ฝ bolt pattern found on many later Ford rear differentials.
7. Airbags can be incorporated into the install to enable slammin her at shows.

What the critics are saying –

1. There are no dropped spindles or other aftermarket products available for this application so you need to factor your desired ride height into the installation. If you desire extreme drop, it can only be achieved by building a frame box considered unattractive by some people.
2. Some folks worry about the weight rating of the donor, but this seems to be a non-issue.
3. Expect some difficulty lining up the steering shaft.
4. This set up is just gaining popularity now (c.2002-3). With no commercial kit to aid installation, you need to interface with others that have done it before to fully understand how to do it unless you’re Chip Foose. There are several folks on this forum that have done it though and are willing to provide some level of support.
5. Track is apparently wider than the stock F100, offset will have to be used in the front wheels to compensate for it. This clip is probably too wide for practical use in the narrower F-1 chassis.
6. To our knowledge, there are not many Aerostar equipped trucks on the road. This is not yet a time tested alternative. To our knowledge reliability issues have not surfaced yet.

This is one of the lowest cost IFS alternatives. Possibly less expensive than a stock axle rebuild. Figure the cost of the donor pieces, some steel and welding, and probably some new wheels.


Level of Expertise required – 2-3

Average installation time – 20 hours.

For more details, or to participate in the ongoing Aerostar "clip" discussion: Please click here

 

Overview of a Camaro/GM IFS Clip

This alternative involves installing the front frame section from a later model GM vehicle (typically a Camaro, Nova, Malibu or a GM clone of these models.) in place of the front frame section of the F1/F100 truck. 1975-76 Camaros, 75-79 Novas, etc. are good donors. They are available in both front and rear steer with the rear steer setup being about four inches narrower than the front steer. The rear steer subframe was available up to about 73 and the front steer after that although this differs depending on which GM subframe you use. You have many options and will find a huge list of potential donors with some research. The front steer is better for trucks as the steering hookup is easier and the steering box won't interfere with a big block Ford engine if you choose that route.

Benefits -

1. Exceptional handling and respectable ride when installed correctly.
2. Performance and “Show” option upgrade parts (brakes etc) are high quality and easy to find.
3. Typical donor cars often heavier than an F100
4. Power steering, discs, sway bar, motor mounts (if you run a GM drive train), clearance for the
steering shaft past the headers, tranny mount (if you run a GM drive train), all add to the ease of install.
5. Your truck will be slammed with no expensive drop spindles to buy.
6. Relatively inexpensive as compared to some of the other IFS alternatives.
7. Narrow control arms are available (at over $700 set) which make the track width somewhat adjustable for narrower F-1s.

What the critics are saying -

1. Installer must be highly skilled for a safe installation. While the donor components are strong, many instances of frame cracking near the graft have been documented. You need to be an excellent welder as a lot of bracing and gusseting is necessary.
2. You have to fabricate a new radiator core support and bumper mounts if you choose to run one.
4. Re-installing the front sheet metal back on and lined up properly is not an easy task.
5. It varies from vehicle to vehicle, but you almost always have to set the engine back some. This results
in less weight over the suspension, which usually requires softer coil, springs. (More work but generally,
a good thing)
6. It takes a lot of patience and measuring to get it square and you can easily ruin a perfectly good truck frame if you don't.
7. You end up with a GM 5x4 พ bolt pattern on the front unless you re-drill the hubs and rotors.

Skill level required – 4+

Special notes – At the risk of losing subjectivity, you should fully understand this installation is not for the feint of heart. You are cutting the front half of two frames completely off the vehicles and aligning and welding one back on. Done correctly, you will have a very nice driving truck. Incorrect install can result in catastrophic suspension failure. It needs to be straight and strong. In the opinion of the majority, it’s not an appropriate project for a rookie rodder.

Average installation time – Unlike the other alternatives, the following is a detailed, blow by blow listing of the elements involved to enable you to better understand what is involved in a “Full clip IFS” and to draw your own conclusions as to the time required to properly do this set up – (Thanks Jim Va.) The following would have some applicability as to the complexity of the “Big Ford” IFS as well.

“The total time required to complete the removal of old front end and install of the 79 Nova (ifs) on my 54F100 was (76)seventy six hours. Keep in mind the time was broken down into different aspects of the install. 1. Locate GM front end to be used.2.bring to my shop, clean up entire sub frame.3.measure and mock up to stock chassis.4.removal of old front end, after much thought as to where to cut.5. fab all gussets and complete all welding.6.sand-blast chassis and front end.7.prime all bare steel.8.dismantle the entire front end. 9.paint all parts and sub frame 10.install all new bushings, on control arms and sway bar, also ball joints on control arms, drag links, pitman arm.11.reassemble entire front end using old springs.12.fab new motor mounts (to move engine fwd.) The following could be considered part of the install but not included in this time quote. Radiator support, Bumper supports, Tilt front, Hinges, Piping for Brakes, Steering shaft "U" Joints, Tranny Mount. However the time needed to install three(3) different sets of springs to get the correct ride height is included. The time(which was substantial) used to procure all the parts needed was not included either. The (COST) with all new parts, i.e., rotors, calipers, bearings, seals, brake hoses, lines, lug nuts, power steering hoses, ball joints, tie rods, drag link, shocks, springs, control arm bushings (poly), sway bar bushings (poly), motor mounts, bump stops, spring pads, steel, welding rods, oxygen/ acetylene, paint and primer, was $637.29. The 79 Nova sub was $50. SHOP COST, install new bushings $75. Sand blasting entire frame $250. Alignment $39. For a TOTAL of$1051.29. That figure seems like a lot of MONEY but the ride I think is worth every dollar. PS. If I had to pay someone to do the work, I would have second thoughts. The chassis of the 54 F100 is narrower than the 79 Nova and a lot of consideration was given to mating the two with respect to the ride height and the stresses that would be encountered when used on the road. Having access to an engineer was a plus! No high tech equipment was needed a (buzz box) and a torch, worked perfect. I cannot state enough!! Measure 10 times!!! Then cut once. ”

For more details, or to participate in the ongoing Camaro/GM IFS clip discussion: Please click here

 

Overview of installing a big Ford clip in an F1/F100 Ford truck –

This is an overview of installing the front clip from a late 60’s to late 70’s i.e. - 1967 - 1976 Thunderbird, Cougar, Torino, Ranchero, Elite, Mark II, Grand Marquis thru 77' Galaxie, and LTD through 78’. If one wanted a newer front clip - the 80-91 Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis, and Lincoln Town car are good ones. By clip we mean cutting the donor front frame section off at or near the firewall, cutting the F1 or F100 front frame off at the firewall and welding in the donor front frame section into the truck. Modifications will be needed to the new frame section to accommodate the truck radiator mount and the truck sheet metal.

Benefits

1. Ford IFS
2. Plentiful donors and easy to find replacement components.
3. Donors often are heavier than an F100
4. Ready to accept a modern Ford Engine including big blocks. The later donors mentioned above
come with mounts for 302/351Ws already.
5. Provides power steering and disc brakes (big ones).
6. Many of the above donors will provide a 9” rear differential of suitable width for a 53-56 F100 as well
as a suitable drivetrain and braking system.
7. Excellent ride and handling.
8. Relatively cheap compared to some of the other alternatives.

What the critics are saying

1. Safe install requires very skilled welder. Not a good first attempt at welding (not that any IFS really is
but it's especially critical for Big Ford or GM style IFS)
2. Requires very good fabrication skills to enable mating the radiator mount and truck sheet metal.
3. You must measure twice and even three times before you cut.
4. You need to understand steering geometry to include angles.
5. You must have established points of reference from which to measure. Front to back and diagonally
to ensure that clip is center and level. (This point is true for all but the ‘Cordoba” IFS though)
6. To run a big block you need to use the 77-78 on back model years. The newer clips did not come factory
with big blocks so a 351W or maybe a 5.4 would be the biggest motor possible. Experience has shown
the 77- 79 T-bird, Cougar and 80-91 full sized Fords to be good for small blocks. Then the 67-71 T-bird,
Galaxie, LTD, and 76 T-bird, 77-78 Marquis for Big blocks
7. It’s not simple to change the ride height. Dropped spindles are not available for these clips.

Average installation time –

Level of expertise required – 4

Special notes –

This installation involves cutting the front half of two frames completely off the vehicles and aligning and welding one back on. It needs to be perfectly straight and strong.

For more details, or to participate in the ongoing Big Ford IFS clip discussion: Please click here

 

Overview of the “Vette” Alternative –

This overview examines the use of C4 (‘84-‘87) and C5 (‘88-‘95) Corvette suspension components on an
F-1/F-100 truck. At this point, there is no personal experience on the FTE forum with this installation so this section is based on various articles in Classic Truck, Custom Classic truck and other magazine articles.

This alternative follows the path of the MII alternative in that variations exist, from adapting a front clip from any of the above donors with appropriate fabrication, through to the purchase of a complete hub-to-hub kit with instructions. This is then installed with all the required cutting and welding to the truck frame.

These donors used a transverse leaf spring. All of the kits provide a method of replacing this spring with coil-overs.

The use of the ‘Vette components drops the spindle 2” above the bottom of the frame and this requires notching the frame or creating a through hole in the frame in front of the crossmember to clear the tie rod ends.

An article in the F-100 Special Edition summer 1997 of Ford Truckin’ and another in the August ‘94 Classic Truck, details the install of a Werks Performance kit which consists of various gusseting and boxing plates and the upper and lower mounts for the coil-overs. The user must locate the front end components including the crossmember, rack and pinion unit, upper and lower a-arms, spindle and braking components. A good fabricator could adapt the components of a clip without this kit but would not have the benefit of instructions to accurately locate the crossmember centerline.

An article in the January ‘98 Classic Truck details a kit from Progressive Automotive (PA) that is based on a fabricated crossmember. Their website lists prices for the crossmember kits for ‘48-‘52 F-1’s and ‘53-‘56 F-100’s at approximately $750 US. These kits include the crossmember that has the upper and lower a-arm mounts, as well as mounts for coil-overs and mounts for an ‘89-‘95 T-bird/Cougar rack and pinion. Full hub-to-hub kits are approximately $2500 US and add in the coil-overs, used ‘Vette components, c-notches for rack tie rod clearance and a remanufactured rack and pinion. The crossmember is a boxed section with gusseted stanchions for the lower a-arm similar to the MII crossmember. PA offers sway bar and air bag upgrades as well

An article in the February ‘03 Classic Truck details a kit from Flat-out Engineering installed in a ‘56 by Bobco. This kit has a fabricated crossmember similar to the PA kit, upper and lower coil-over mounts and is intended to use the ‘Vette rack and pinion. The article indicates that kits are available for ‘41 to ‘64 ford trucks.

Characteristics-

1. Exceptional handling and respectable ride
2. Very good brakes. The C4’s had 11” rotors, the C5’s had 12 ผ or 12 พ” rotors
3. A large aftermarket support for brake and bushing upgrades
4. Typical donor cars are similar weight if not heavier than an F-100
5. The use of coil-overs provides ease of ride height adjustability. A simple turn of the spring/shock nut and you can change the ride height 4-5 inches although suspension geometry may be impaired if you stray very far from the optimum placement as is the case on any suspension lowering.
6. The use of coil-overs allows some choice in spring rates and shock tuning adjustment is usually included so ride and handling can be firmed up or made cushier as desired.
7. Your truck will be slammed with no expensive drop spindles to buy.
8. If the donor crossmember is used, it provides a substantial wide base for the wide a-arms to transmit the twisting forces of braking and curb/pothole impact to the crossmember and frame.
9. The hub-to-hub kits are priced very similarly to the full tubular a-arm polished MII hub-to-hub kits or the Dakota hub to hub kit.
10. The forged aluminum upper and lower arms and spindles have a high show quality especially if polished
11. Provides a very pretty companion for the Vette IRS for the ultimate in handling and show.
12. The kits and magazine articles clearly detail the optimum placement of the crossmember.
13. Front mount rack and pinion steering provides relatively easy steering connection to the truck column and reasonable clearance to headers.

Important considerations –

1. Donors are not as plentiful and may be very scarce in some parts of the country.
2. Replacement parts may be more expensive although they should remain plentiful due to the very strong following for the donors.
3. The donor is a performance car so the ride will not be cushy. This is especially true if the bushings are upgraded to the urethane bushings. But this is the case as well for the tubular upper and lower arms in the MII kits or a urethane upgrade for any of the other alternatives.
4. At desired suspension geometry, these kits slam the front end so curbs and steeper inclines become an issue.
5. The fabricated crossmembers may have the same concerns as the MII crossmembers in terms of ability to transmit the twisting loads of the a-arms, due to braking and pothole/curb impact, into the crossmember.
6. No experience on the forum to provide assistance in the install.

Installation time and skill level required for the crossmember kits would be similar to that required for an MII crossmember kit. If the donor crossmember kit is used, some additional time would be required to modify the crossmember for install. If you are going it on your own without a kit, this install would be similar to an Aerostar install except for the additional work to fabricate the mounts for the coil-overs unless you can use the original transverse leaf spring.


Level of difficulty – 3 to 3+

Installation Time - ?? (Likely comparable to an MII)

Ride Height - 3” to 5” drop versus stock

For more details, or to participate in the ongoing Corvette IFS discussion: Please click here

 

Overview of the AMC Pacer IFS alternative -

The AMC Pacer alternative has been used to a small degree for a long time. Never really mainstream it is even less popular now. In many respects it is identical in basic principals and appearance to the Volare IFS set up. That is, the entire IFS unit is bolted into the Pacer and is removed in very much the same way as the Volare, including having to remove an upper A-arm to get it off the donor. This is not a big deal.

Characteristics

1. Inexpensive donors (1975 through 1980 AMC Pacers) can be found in wrecking yards.
2. Comes with manual or power rack and pinion steering and 11inch disk brakes.
3. Has the “small Ford” bolt pattern – 5 X 4ฝ”
4. Chassis Engineering offers a kit with mounting brackets to assist in installation
5. Near perfect dimensions for ‘48 to ‘52 Ford F-1s. Too narrow for 1953 and up.
6. If you are of average capability, it can be done cheaply (comparable to the Volare)

Important Considerations

1. Less than 400,000 Pacers were built and only from 1975 to 1980. Donors are getting pretty old.
2. Less than 5,000 were built with V-8s. You may need to play with custom springs to get a good ride.
3. Choose a unit with a good power rack and pinion unit. They are prone to leakage and you must provide
your own unit as a core for rebuilding. No one rebuilds the manual rack and pinion units commercially.
4. Although instructions in Chassis Engineering’s kit are sparse, this is not a complex undertaking.
5. Very little assistance is available on the WWW. Only 2 user write ups appear to be available and
one magazine write up – Classic Trucks – Spring 1992 issue. Not many, if anybody is using it these days.
6. How much longer will repair parts be available for the Pacer?
7. Frame needs to be notched to “slam” the front end. Need to get custom front coils to lower even more.


Expertise level – 3

Ride Height - ?

Installation time – Comparable to the Volare

If you were to pursue this alternative, it would probably be worthwhile to buy No Limit Engineering’s Volare installation video. This set up and its installation is so similar to the Volare that it would greatly help you understand what you need to do and how to do it. The Pacer IFS even requires the 4 degrees of positive caster that the Volare does.


Overview of the GM Corvair and Jaguar setups –

Here we look at various, less popular set ups . We are not aware of any users of any of these set ups so information was hard to come by. One of the writers of this opus did a Corvair install in a ‘46 Dodge pickup a long time ago but we have no 1st hand experience with the Jaguar set ups.




Corvair – This was considered the common man’s hot set up in the ‘70’s, particularly for cars from the late ‘30’s and the ‘40’s. Donor cars were relatively easy to find in wrecking yards and in the classifieds. The entire front suspension assembly easily unbolted from the donor (think Volare). The engineering required to adapt the Pinto/MII rack and pinion steering was simple. Repair parts were easy to get and relatively cheap. However that was a long time ago and Corvairs haven’t been built for almost 40 years now. Additionally, they have become somewhat collectible in their own right. The most important point for owners of F-1/F-100s to understand though – this unit is too light for a truck. It isn’t beefy enough for a ‘48 –‘60 full sized truck. They’re too narrow for an F-100 as well. They’re too hard to find now and you’ll be looking for 40-year-old rebuild parts. Leave the donors alone for those poor, twisted buggers who are restoring Corvairs. There is no obvious benefit for you to go this route rather than one of the more popular alternatives already covered. They wouldn’t be any cheaper than at least one of the alternatives we’ve covered.





Jaguar – In the ‘70’s this was the hot set up. Nobody really made kits to install any IFS suspension in street rods, so you were on your own. XKE front suspension was adapted by fabricating attachments to the frame for the XKE A-arms and spindles. The A-arms were very sexy looking - similar to the Corvette pieces used today. You don’t really hear too much about people using it today though. There is a bit of use of the later Jag sedan IFS in which the ‘K-member” style assembly is adapted to your vehicle in much the same manner as the Volare unit is. However, this unit doesn’t have the “sexiness” of the earlier XKE components. The Jag sedans of the ‘70’s and ‘80’s are really not very collectible, so donor vehicles (especially in the northern climates) should be relatively cheap. However, replacement parts will not be. As Ford now owns Jaguar, you can tell yourself that you’re staying pure. As mentioned, there is not a lot of Jag being done, so you’re largely on your own with this one.


If you’re a somewhat inexperienced rodder, be prepared to tackle any of these alternatives on your own. You will have difficulty finding anyone nearby or on the web who can help you. You’ll be on your own trying to figure out steering geometry, etc.

I would suggest that the benefits found in the range of alternatives covered earlier – some pretty, some not, some cheap, some not – would easily outweigh any reasons you might have for considering one of these last two alternatives.

For more details, or to participate in the ongoing Jaguar, Corvair IFS discussion: Please click here

 

Closing statements....

We have tried to present the most common and not so common F-1/F-100 front suspension alternatives in use today. We have tried to present the data in as unbiased a manner as possible. Admittedly, most of the contributors to this article are rodders (or “darksiders” as the stockers or “whitelighters” refer to us as), so if you feel we were less than completely successful in that regard, you know why.

There were five or six people who devoted most of the effort required to put this article together, but it was based upon the information provided by many in this forum. All but two of the alternatives discussed were documented and based upon first hand experiences of the members of this forum. Without these member’s contributions, this article, which we believe is a good one, would not be possible. Thank you.

For the newcomers to this forum, this article is simply meant as an overview to help you decide whether to rebuild your stock suspension or go with one of the IFS alternatives and to provide insight into the characteristics of each. You will find more detail and discussion on each alternative in separate threads on this forum. These separate threads tend to have titles starting with the words “Pro’s and Con’s of “ and are generally dated 9/30/03. We encourage you to read these detailed threads and then ask any additional questions you might have on the end of the thread in which you are most interested.